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Saturday, February 9, 2013

Foin Coupe by Guerlain c1850

Foin Coupé by Guerlain, launched in 1850 and likely crafted in the 1830s, draws its evocative name from the French phrase meaning "cut hay." This name captures a vivid pastoral scene, conjuring the image of freshly harvested hay fields with their crisp, green, and slightly sweet aroma. The term "Foin Coupé" embodies the rustic charm and the sensory pleasure associated with the countryside at harvest time. By evoking the essence of new mown hay, the name suggests a fragrance that is both fresh and intimately connected to nature.

The olfactory interpretation of Foin Coupé would center around this imagery. The scent would likely open with vibrant, green notes reminiscent of freshly cut grass and hay, carrying a hint of the sweetness and dryness of sun-dried hay. This would appeal to both men and women of the time who were drawn to fragrances that mirrored the natural world and evoked a sense of pastoral tranquility.

During the 19th century, the popularity of Foin Coupé (Guerlain also released in English as "New Mown Hay") reflects a broader trend in perfumery of incorporating natural elements into scent compositions. Fragrances of this period often sought to capture the essence of nature, blending floral and green notes with a touch of the animalic to create depth. The use of natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures was common, but as the century progressed, the inclusion of synthetics like coumarin in the 1896 reformulation allowed for a more consistent and long-lasting representation of these natural scents.

In the context of other fragrances available at the time, New Mown Hay stands out for its distinct approach. While many perfumes were focusing on rich, floral, and exotic notes, Guerlain's choice to craft a scent around the more humble and earthy aroma of cut hay offered a refreshing contrast. This innovative approach highlighted a growing appreciation for authenticity in scent and a deepened connection to the natural world, marking Foin Coupé as both a product of its time and a unique departure from prevailing trends.

Plus Que Jamais c2005

Plus Que Jamais: (More Than Ever): created in 2005. Looking to create the perfect fragrance for the re-opening of the Guerlain boutique on the Champs Elysees, Jean-Paul Guerlain composed Plus Que Jamais, an exclusive fragrance that celebrates the creative spirit of the House.


Precious Heart c2004

Precious Heart by Guerlain: launched in 2004, as a limited edition. Created by Frank Voelkl. Guerlain's second travel retail scent, following 2003's With Love.

Shore's Caprice by Guerlain c1873

Shore's-Caprice, launched in 1873, was a fragrance crafted by Aimé Guerlain, intended as an extrait specifically for use on handkerchiefs and furs. At a time when furs were a staple in high society, the perfume served a practical purpose—masking the natural odor of the pelts with a luxurious scent. The fragrance, inspired by the sea, captured the essence of freshness and sophistication, making it an ideal complement to the elegance of its wearers.

Originally created for Comtesse Emanuella Pignatelli Potocka, Shore's-Caprice soon became a favorite of Julia Forsell, further solidifying its reputation among the elite. The fragrance’s unique composition and connection to aristocracy helped establish its place in high society. However, despite its prominence, the perfume's name was often mistakenly recorded as "Shaw's Caprice" or "Show Caprice" in various publications, a testament to both its widespread influence and the occasional confusion surrounding it.

Ylang Ylang by Guerlain c1839

Launched in 1839, Ylang Ylang by Guerlain was named after the exotic and fragrant tropical flower, ylang ylang, whose name comes from the Tagalog language of the Philippines, meaning "flower of flowers." By choosing this name, Guerlain aimed to evoke the lush, tropical allure of this flower, which was synonymous with romance, mystery, and natural beauty. The repetition of the word in its name, "ylang ylang," suggests abundance and a floral richness that is hard to match, conjuring up images of vibrant, sun-drenched islands and a sensory experience unlike anything found in Europe at the time.

The word "ylang ylang" itself carries a poetic and exotic connotation. It stirs the imagination, bringing forth visions of delicate golden-yellow petals falling gracefully from trees in faraway tropical landscapes. In scent, "ylang ylang" is interpreted as a rich, sweet floral with hints of creaminess and spice, a fragrance that feels both intoxicating and calming. Its scent is sensual yet soft, with a slightly narcotic effect, making it a perfect representation of the escapism and indulgence that women of the time would have sought. The tropical note of ylang ylang would have transported its wearers to distant lands, creating a sense of exoticism and refinement.

In the 19th century, when Ylang Ylang was launched, Europe was captivated by the mysteries of the East and the allure of the tropics. The colonial expansion had made new and rare materials like ylang ylang accessible, and perfumes using exotic ingredients became a symbol of luxury and adventure. Women of the time would have been drawn to a perfume called "Ylang Ylang" for its promise of something new and thrilling—a fragrance that spoke to their desire for beauty and sophistication, while also indulging in a fantasy of distant, uncharted worlds.



Liu by Guerlain c1929

Liu by Guerlain, launched in 1929 and created by Jacques Guerlain, draws its inspiration from the haunting beauty and tragic romance of Puccini's opera Turandot. In the opera, Liu is the name of a slave girl who plays a pivotal role in the dramatic love story. The plot of Turandot revolves around the cold and cruel Princess Turandot, who has vowed to remain unmarried unless a suitor can solve three riddles. Failure results in execution. Prince Calaf, entranced by her beauty, takes on the challenge. Liu, a slave girl deeply in love with Calaf, represents the tender heart of the opera. Her selfless devotion leads her to sacrifice her life for his, embodying unwavering loyalty and deep, tragic love.

The name Liu is taken from the opera's original Italian libretto, though the character and name have Chinese roots. Pronounced "LU," the name evokes simplicity, grace, and quiet strength. Liu, in the context of the opera, symbolizes purity, selflessness, and unrequited love, images that resonate through the ages. For a perfume, the name "Liu" conjures emotions of delicate elegance, soft femininity, and quiet power—traits that would have appealed to the women of the time, seeking a reflection of their own grace and inner strength.

Women of the late 1920s, emerging from the flapper era and the tumult of World War I, were embracing more freedom and confidence in their personal lives. A fragrance like Liu, named after a character who was at once loyal and tragically romantic, would evoke an air of mystery and tenderness. It allowed women to connect to something poetic and timeless, while also embracing a new era of modernity, where the art of scent was evolving rapidly. The name would have evoked imagery of far-off, exotic lands and timeless emotions, appealing to the sophisticated, worldly woman of the late 1920s.

In scent, Liu captures the essence of its namesake through its classification as an aldehydic floral. Aldehydes were seen as daring, fresh, and modern notes in perfumery at the time. Liu was Guerlain’s first fragrance to use aldehydes in such a bold measure, competing with other iconic aldehydic florals of the period, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921), Arpège by Lanvin (1927), L’Aimant by Coty (1927), and Evening in Paris by Bourjois (1929). These perfumes revolutionized the way women perceived scent—shifting from simple, single-note florals to more complex, sophisticated compositions. The aldehydes in Liu add a sparkling, almost abstract quality to the fragrance, opening it with a burst of brightness that feels crisp and effervescent, yet intangible, like a gleam of light or the soft shimmer of silk.

The 1920s were a time of innovation and excitement in many fields, including perfumery. Aldehydes, once considered experimental, became a symbol of modernity, giving fragrances a crystalline sharpness and a radiant lift that natural ingredients alone couldn't achieve. This innovation allowed perfumes to last longer on the skin, giving them an almost ethereal presence. For Liu, the aldehydes act as a vehicle to transport the wearer into an imagined world of elegance, art, and high romance, much like the opera that inspired it.


Collection: Les Voyages Olfactifs

In May 2009, Guerlain presented the Les Voyages Olfactifs fragrance collection inspired by the cities of Paris, New York and Tokyo. Two other scents were launched: London in 2011, and Shanghai in 2012.


Le Bolshoi c2011

Le Bolshoi: created in 2011 by Jean-Paul Guerlain.

La Cologne Du Parfumeur c2010

La Cologne Du Parfumeur: a citrus aromatic fragrance for women and men, introduced in 2010. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser.

"Originally, I created this Cologne for myself. I composed it at the same time as Idylle, it was my downtime. I wanted a Cologne in the tradition of the great classics but with a modern twist."


L'Âme d'Un Héros c2008

L'Âme d'Un Héros: created in 2008, clearly inspired by the firm's previous release, Coriolan. Jean-Paul Guerlain's 1998 creation Coriolan, born of the legendary conquests of the great Roman warrior Coriolanus, gets a new deployment as L'ame d'un Heros. L'ame d'un Heros is the scent of valor.

Parure c1975

Parure by Guerlain: launched in 1975. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain with his mother in mind. It is a luxurious fragrance that evoked the richness and brilliance of the most precious jewels. Parure means a matching set - earrings and necklace.


Secret Intention c2001

Secret Intention: a floral fragrance for women, launched in 2001, as a limited edition by Jean Paul Guerlain.



Spiritueuse Double Vanille c2007

Spiritueuse Double Vanille: launched in 2007 as a limited edition. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete c2012

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.


Encens Mythique d'Orient c2012

Encens Mythique d'Orient by Guerlain: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.

Rose Nacree du Desert c2012

Rose Nacree du Desert: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.

Purple Fantasy c2001

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain: launched in 2001. Created by Jean Paul Guerlain.

Prince Albert's Bouquet by Guerlain c1840

Launched in 1840 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, Prince Albert's Bouquet was crafted to celebrate a momentous occasion: the marriage of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. This fragrance, also known as Bouquet de Albert, stands as a testament to the tradition of commemorating royal events through exquisite perfumery. The name “Prince Albert's Bouquet” evokes a sense of honor and celebration, reflecting the admiration and respect for the royal couple.

The term "Prince Albert's Bouquet" conjures images of regality and elegance, symbolizing the refined taste of Victorian nobility. It suggests a luxurious blend of florals, fitting for a prince whose union with Queen Victoria was celebrated with grandeur. The fragrance itself would have likely been designed to embody the sophistication and splendor associated with the royal court, offering a scent that was both opulent and memorable.

For men and women of the period, a fragrance like Prince Albert's Bouquet would have been a cherished token of royal celebrations. During the 19th century, perfumes commemorating significant events were highly sought after, and acquiring such a fragrance was a way to align oneself with the prestige of the monarchy. The popularity of “court” perfumes, such as Victoria Bouquet, Adelaide Bouquet, and Prince of Wales's Bouquet, underscores the era’s fascination with fragrances that celebrated nobility and significant occasions.

In this context, Guerlain’s choice to create Prince Albert's Bouquet not only capitalized on the fervor surrounding royal weddings but also positioned his brand prominently in the competitive perfume market. The fragrance would have been crafted to appeal to the tastes of the time, combining floral elements with subtle touches of animalics, reflecting both the natural and sophisticated sensibilities of the era. As the 19th century progressed, the formula for such fragrances evolved, incorporating newly discovered synthetic ingredients to enhance their complexity and longevity.




Pao Rosa c1877

Pao Rosa by Guerlain: created by Aimé Guerlain in 1877. Pao Rosa grows in the dense forests of Africa. Its narrow sapwood is a pinkish white color and its heartwood is a reddish brown color with red brown veins.


180 Ans de Creations c2008

180 Ans de Creations 1828-2008: launched in 2008. 

Guerlain's 180th anniversary was celebrated with a brand new limited edition perfume, composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain. A non-commercial perfume gift offered only to loyal customers and industry people.

"To celebrate an exceptional event, Maison Guerlain's 180-year anniversary, Jean-Paul Guerlain has composed a very contemporary fragrance which has been created in traditional Guerlain style. With sensual amber notes that stir the senses, and a bottle which has been hand-sealed by the "dames de table", this limited edition scent, which will NOT be available for sale, has all the rarity and uniqueness of a collector's item."