Fleurs de Serre by Guerlain c1878

Fleurs de Serre by Guerlain, launched around 1878, carries a name that directly translates to "Hothouse Flowers." This evocative title conjures up imagery of lush, exotic blooms thriving in the controlled warmth of glass conservatories. During the 19th century, hothouses—also known as orangeries or greenhouses—were symbols of prestige, luxury, and a deep fascination with nature. They allowed wealthy individuals to cultivate rare and delicate flowers from tropical climates, which would otherwise be impossible to grow in European environments. Guerlain’s choice of the name "Fleurs de Serre" reflects this admiration for these refined, carefully tended blooms, capturing the essence of indulgence and exclusivity.

The name itself, Fleurs de Serre, evokes an aura of opulence and fragility. The phrase stirs thoughts of flowers that are nurtured with utmost care—delicate petals protected from the harshness of the outside world. The scent of hothouse flowers would have been luxurious, heavy, and exotic, a feast for the senses. This fragrance would have been interpreted as a tribute to the lush, vibrant blooms of these artificial paradises, evoking emotions of serenity, beauty, and refined elegance. The image of a hothouse filled with vibrant, fragrant blossoms, their sweet and heady aromas trapped in a warm, humid environment, comes to mind. It is a scent of flowers that are both tender and resilient, thriving in an environment specifically designed for them to flourish.

During the late 19th century, hothouses were not only an aristocratic symbol of wealth and leisure but also a reflection of society's increasing interest in botany, science, and global exploration. People of this era were fascinated by the exotic and the rare, and perfumes were often inspired by nature’s most precious gifts. For men and women of the time, a fragrance called "Fleurs de Serre" would have felt like an invitation to experience the rare and delicate beauty of the world’s most coveted flowers. The scent would have evoked memories of visits to grand estates, where one could walk among towering hothouses filled with blooming orchids, jasmine, roses, and orange blossoms, each flower cultivated to perfection.

When Fleurs de Serre was launched, the world of perfumery was undergoing a transition. The natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures that dominated fragrance creation were beginning to be supplemented with newly discovered synthetic materials. While still rooted in nature, perfumes of the period were also becoming more complex, with a newfound ability to capture the essence of fleeting blooms and preserve their scent in ways never before possible. In this context, Fleurs de Serre would have stood out as a tribute to nature’s bounty, while also celebrating the burgeoning scientific advancements in perfumery.

The fragrance's name and concept were a reflection of the desire to capture nature in its most perfect and controlled form, embodying the elegance, refinement, and indulgence that were hallmarks of the late 19th century. For the women and men who wore Fleurs de Serre, it would have been more than just a perfume; it was an olfactory experience of the world’s most luxurious and rarest flowers, all housed within the glass walls of a hothouse, ready to bloom eternally.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: orange blossom, camellia, orange, lemon, lime, geranium
• Middle notes: cattleya orchid, jasmine, rose, violet, gardenia, lily
• Base notes: fern

Scent Profile:

As I take in the first breath of Fleurs de Serre, the fragrance unfolds with an exhilarating burst of citrus brightness. The zesty, sun-soaked essence of orange and lemon hits the senses first, their vibrant tang softened by the sweet, delicate bloom of orange blossom. There's a freshness here that is both uplifting and refined, like the air in a hothouse filled with citrus trees. 

As the brightness continues, the subtle greenness of lime lingers just beneath the surface, adding a crisp, almost sparkling quality. Then, the soft, powdery whisper of camellia enters—cool and velvety, offering a touch of sophistication. Geranium cuts through this floral softness with its sharp, slightly peppery edge, balancing the citrus and flowers with an invigorating burst of greenery.

As the top notes fade, the lushness of the middle notes begins to bloom. A heady, intoxicating floral bouquet unfolds, dominated by the rich and exotic cattleya orchid, whose velvety petals feel almost tangible in the air. It’s a sensual and tropical heart, tempered by the sweet creaminess of gardenia and the sultry elegance of jasmine. These florals weave together with the timeless beauty of rose, whose soft, romantic fragrance evokes the sense of stepping into a private conservatory filled with perfect blooms. 

A hint of violet adds a powdery sweetness, its delicate, old-world charm lending a nostalgic grace to the bouquet, while the lily injects an air of purity, clean and fresh as if just plucked from a dewy garden.

As the floral heart softens, the base of fern slowly reveals itself, grounding the composition with an earthy, green quality that feels as though it’s rising from the damp soil of the hothouse floor. The fern’s natural, verdant scent lingers, whispering of shaded groves and moss-covered paths, balancing the sweetness of the florals with a subtle, forest-like freshness that remains long after the more fleeting notes have faded. The combination is both lush and serene, capturing the sensation of wandering through an indoor botanical paradise, where every breath is steeped in fragrant foliage and blooms.

De wereldtentoonstelling van 1878 te Parijs, 1878:

"GUERLAIN DE PARIS 15 rue de la Paix - Highly recommended and vogue articles: Eau de Cologne Impériale, Sapoceti toilet soap, Crême saponin, Ambrosial cream for the beard, Crême de Fraises to soften the skin, Poudre de Cypris for the white skin, the luxurious Crystallized Stilboide for the beard and hair, Eau Athénienne and Eau Lustrale to perfume and wash the head. For the handkerchief: Shore's Caprice, Parfum de France, Fleurs Nouvelles, Pao Rosa, Fleurs de Serre, Bouquet Imperial Russe. For the toilette: Eau de Cédrat and Eau de Chypre."

Journal des demoiselles, 1878:

Maison Guerlain Perfumers, 15 rue de la Paix: After enduring the chill of winter, the weariness from balls and parties, and the abrupt changes in March’s weather, many young women find their complexions looking tired. To restore their skin’s radiance and freshness, we recommend a few essential Guerlain products. Use strawberry cream as a cold cream for both face and hands, followed by velvet paste for added softness, and La Ferté balm to rejuvenate the lips. These trusted preparations from Guerlain can be used with full confidence, and those who do will find nothing but satisfaction.

One key piece of advice from Monsieur Guerlain himself: never apply rice powder directly on skin covered with cold cream. Instead, alternate between the two cosmetics. The rice powder should be finely milled so that it adheres smoothly to the skin without needing the cream. It is applied with a puff and can be gently brushed away with the hand.

For young women who wish to perfume their handkerchiefs, we suggest the new fragrances: Fleurs de Serre and Pao-Rosa. The latter offers a slightly more intense scent. Classic favorites such as Parfum de France and Russian Imperial Bouquet remain as fashionable as ever.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon. Also could be found in a cylindrical perfume bottle, which was used as a tester or purse flacon, called Gouttes Parfumees, most likely dates to1870s-1880s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown