Eau de Cologne du Coq: is a citrus aromatic fragrance for men, launched in 1894. The nose behind this fragrance is Aime Guerlain. It was also known as "Eau du Coq". This was created for a friend of Aime's, the distinguished French actor Benoît-Constant Coquelin, , whose nickname was le Coq (the Fool (foolish but having the slyness of a rogue), or the little Rooster).
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Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Guerlain in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. All trademarks belong to their respective owners.
The main objective of this website is to chronicle the 200+ year old history of the Guerlain fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years. Let this site be your source for information on antique and vintage Guerlain perfumes. Another goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Guerlain company how much we miss many of the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances!
I invite you to leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or on what occasion, what it smelled like to you, how it made you feel, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Guerlain brand might see it.
If you have any questions, please send all images of your bottle and pertinent information directly to me at cleopatrasboudoir@gmail.com. I will try to assist you the best I can.
Monday, February 11, 2013
Eau de Cologne du 68 c2006
Eau de Cologne du 68: created in 2006, by Sophie Labbe. When it was first launched, it was exclusive to the Paris boutique, but has been released in a 100ml size flacon, in limited distribution since 2008, in conjuction with Guerlain's 180 year anniversary. The fragrance is now sold only in the 250ml bottle.
Eau de Camélia et Vétiver c1834
Eau de Camélia et Vétiver: created by Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain in 1834.
A Travers Champs by Guerlain c1898
À Travers Champs, launched in 1898 by Aimé Guerlain, is a fragrance that captures the essence of the countryside. The name, which translates from French as "Across the Fields," evokes a sense of peaceful meandering through open meadows filled with blooming flowers. It suggests a break from the constraints of urban life, a moment of freedom in nature where one can enjoy the simple beauty of the outdoors. The choice of name reflects Guerlain's intent to craft a perfume that connects its wearer with the natural world, evoking imagery of walking through vast expanses of wildflowers under a clear sky. The title speaks to a bucolic dream, one where the breeze carries the delicate scent of flowers across open fields, inviting feelings of nostalgia, serenity, and natural beauty.
In scent, "À Travers Champs" would embody the freshness and sweetness of field flowers. Since it was based on the flowers of the fields, it would likely have included notes reminiscent of wild roses, daisies, violets, and other delicate blossoms commonly found in meadows. The scent profile would be light, airy, and floral, capturing the purity of untouched nature. Guerlain's expertise in blending these floral elements would have made the fragrance soft yet uplifting, as if one were inhaling the clean, fresh air of a country garden. The incorporation of both natural extracts and emerging synthetics would have enhanced the fragrance's ability to create the illusion of walking through fields in bloom. The natural ingredients would provide authenticity and depth, while the synthetic elements could prolong the fragrance's longevity and complexity, resulting in a harmonious balance.
Women of the time would have likely found "À Travers Champs" deeply appealing. The idea of a fragrance based on meadow flowers would resonate with a romanticized vision of nature and purity, which was particularly cherished during the late 19th century. Many women in this era were drawn to perfumes that connected them to nature, especially as industrialization transformed cities into bustling centers of commerce and pollution. Wearing a scent like "À Travers Champs" would have allowed them to momentarily escape the busy urban environment and embody a more natural, serene persona. The fragrance would have symbolized an idealized rural life, one full of innocence and simplicity, while also serving as a reminder of the fleeting beauty of nature.
Attrape Coeur c2005
Attrape Coeur: (Heart Catcher) This fragrance was first released as a limited edition in 1999 under the name of Guet-Apens (Ambush).
Over the years it has gone through several incarnations:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an ambery floral fragrance for women.
Over the years it has gone through several incarnations:
- 1999 Guet Apens
- 2002 No.68
- 2005 Attrape Cœur eau de toilette
- 2007 Vol de Nuit Evasion
- 2014 Royal Extract
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: peach and cinnamon
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, violet, iris, tuberose
- Base notes: orris, vanilla, musk, leather, sandalwood, amber and oakmoss
Guet-Apens c1999
Guet-Apens: created in 1999 by Mathilde Laurent, as a limited edition.
Presented in the 4 oz Lanterne flacon (eau de parfum).
Guet-Apens (discontinued), then reissued in 2002 as No.68 (discontinued), then reorchestrated and renamed Attrape Cœur in 2005 (discontinued) , then renamed and relaunched as Vol de Nuit Evasion in 2007 (discontinued), then launched again in 2014 as Royal Extract.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fruity fragrance for women.- Top notes: jasmine, tuberose, violet
- Middle notes: peach, rose
- Base notes: amber, musk, vetiver and vanilla
Bottle:
Presented in the 4 oz Lanterne flacon (eau de parfum).
Fate of the Fragrance:
Guet-Apens (discontinued), then reissued in 2002 as No.68 (discontinued), then reorchestrated and renamed Attrape Cœur in 2005 (discontinued) , then renamed and relaunched as Vol de Nuit Evasion in 2007 (discontinued), then launched again in 2014 as Royal Extract.
Insolence Shimmering Edition c2008
Insolence Shimmering Edition: created in 2008 by Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte.
Insolence Eau Glacee c2009
Insolence Eau Glacee: created for summer 2009. Another kind of olfactive insolence arrives from the house of Guerlain in light violet nuances with an icy accent.
From Guerlain:
From Guerlain:
An icy fragrance that makes you melt with pleasure! A refreshing idea for a scent that never loses its cool The result is the new Insolence Eau Glacée. The favourite notes of Insolence reveal themselves in a new light: Berries glisten with frost, violet petals seem ready to melt and iris offers wonderful lightness and luxurious airiness.
Insolence Blooming - Collector's Bottle c2009
Insolence Blooming: created in 2009, a limited edition.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is the same composition as the original Insolence eau de toilette. Only the bottle design is slightly different, as it is meant as a collector's edition.
Bottle:
Insolence c2006
Insolence: created in 2006 by Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte. It is a new bold fragrance for young women, first introduced in an eau de toilette concentration, it was in 2008 that we were introduced to the eau de parfum concentration, also created by Roucel and Delacourte. This perfume will most probably surprise the Guerlain perfumes fans, as it is rather unusual, modern and fruity sweet. But, Guerlain is not afraid to surprise, and even provoke.
L`Instant Fleur de Mandarine c2007
L`Instant de Guerlain Fleur de Mandarine: created in 2007, as a limited edition.
Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus c2009
Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus: Created in 2009 by Jean Paul Guerlain, a fragrant picture of a Japanese woman, Mitsouko, was presented with a new fragrance by the house of Guerlain - Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus.
“Mitsouko is really a masterpiece,” says Jean-Paul Guerlain, “I did not want to betray my grandfather’s, so I added a freshness to the scent with spices and white musk to give a modernity to it without changing the original scent.”
“Mitsouko is really a masterpiece,” says Jean-Paul Guerlain, “I did not want to betray my grandfather’s, so I added a freshness to the scent with spices and white musk to give a modernity to it without changing the original scent.”
Mi-Mai by Guerlain c1914
Mi-Mai by Guerlain, launched in 1914 and created by Jacques Guerlain, draws its name from a quintessentially French tradition. The name "Mi-Mai," pronounced "Mee-May," translates to "Mid-May" in English, reflecting the fragrance's homage to the early days of May. This period is particularly significant in French culture, as it marks the celebration of Labor Day on May 1st, a day when people traditionally exchange sprigs of muguet (lily of the valley) as symbols of good luck and renewal. The name evokes images of spring’s fresh beginnings and the delicate, bell-shaped blooms that symbolize this joyous time.
In the context of the perfume, Mi-Mai is classified as a green floral fragrance for women, capturing the essence of spring’s vitality. The scent is interpreted through its dominant notes of lily of the valley, which infuses the fragrance with a crisp, verdant freshness reminiscent of a garden in full bloom. This green quality is balanced with floral notes that evoke the delicate beauty and lightness of the muguet, intertwined with a subtly sweet and earthy undertone.
The time period of Mi-Mai’s launch, just before World War I, was characterized by a burgeoning appreciation for sophisticated, refined fragrances that mirrored the elegance and cultural richness of early 20th-century Europe. Lilies of the valley were highly prized in perfumery for their delicate, sweet scent and their symbolic association with purity and spring’s renewal. Guerlain, known for its meticulous sourcing of raw materials, would have procured these flowers from reputable growers in France, where the region's climate and soil conditions are ideal for cultivating such aromatic blooms.
Sunday, February 10, 2013
Extrait Nice, Dear c1883
Extrait Nice, Dear: launched in 1883 or 1893. This perfume was created to commemorate Great Britain and was named in honour of the goddess Nike (Nice).
In Greek mythology, Nike, was a goddess who personified victory, also known as the Winged Goddess of Victory. The Roman equivalent was Victoria.
Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain c1873
Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain was launched in 1873. Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. Composed especially for Elise Hensler, countess d’Edla, Queen of Portugal, based on the old castle of Cintra (Sintra), a favorite residence of the Portuguese Royal family, also known as the Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros).
Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain: launched in 1873. Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The perfume was created for Elise, Countess of Edla (born Elise Friedericke Hensler; 22 May 1836 – 21 May 1929), a Swiss-born American actress and singer, and the morganatic second wife of the former King Ferdinand II of Portugal.
Bouquet de Marie Christine by Guerlain c1885
Bouquet de Marie Christine, launched around 1885, is a fragrance steeped in regal significance and historical context. The name, "Bouquet de Marie Christine," translates from French to "Bouquet of Marie Christine." This title directly references Maria Cristina of Austria, who was not only a prominent figure in European royalty but also a symbol of transitional power in Spain. As Queen Consort alongside her husband, Alfonso XII, and later as Queen Regent during the interregnum following his death in 1885, Maria Cristina played a crucial role in Spanish history.
The choice of name evokes a rich tapestry of images and emotions. "Bouquet" suggests a carefully curated arrangement of flowers, indicative of sophistication and elegance. The addition of "Marie Christine" personalizes this bouquet, linking it to a specific individual whose life and influence marked a significant historical moment. The fragrance thus carries with it the weight of royal grandeur and personal homage.
In terms of scent, "Bouquet de Marie Christine" would be interpreted as a composition reflecting the refined and noble qualities associated with the Queen. The fragrance likely captures the essence of her regal presence through a complex, opulent blend of floral notes, possibly accompanied by richer, more luxurious base elements. This combination would evoke the sophisticated and cultivated nature of Maria Cristina, while also paying tribute to her elevated status.
Women of the period, who were often closely attuned to the latest trends and influences from the court, would have seen "Bouquet de Marie Christine" as a symbol of high society and refined taste. The perfume would be more than just a scent; it would be an embodiment of the elegance and authority of a queen regent, offering them a way to connect with the regal allure of Maria Cristina.
The time during which this perfume was launched was marked by significant political and social shifts. Maria Cristina’s regency, a transitional period between her husband's death and the birth of her son Alfonso XIII, was a time of both uncertainty and anticipation for Spain. Guerlain's creation of a perfume in her honor was not only a tribute to her personal dignity and grace but also a continuation of the brand's tradition of crafting fragrances for the royal and elite circles of Europe. This period saw Guerlain consolidating its reputation for bespoke creations for heads of state and nobility, solidifying its place as a purveyor of luxury and refinement.
The choice of name evokes a rich tapestry of images and emotions. "Bouquet" suggests a carefully curated arrangement of flowers, indicative of sophistication and elegance. The addition of "Marie Christine" personalizes this bouquet, linking it to a specific individual whose life and influence marked a significant historical moment. The fragrance thus carries with it the weight of royal grandeur and personal homage.
In terms of scent, "Bouquet de Marie Christine" would be interpreted as a composition reflecting the refined and noble qualities associated with the Queen. The fragrance likely captures the essence of her regal presence through a complex, opulent blend of floral notes, possibly accompanied by richer, more luxurious base elements. This combination would evoke the sophisticated and cultivated nature of Maria Cristina, while also paying tribute to her elevated status.
Women of the period, who were often closely attuned to the latest trends and influences from the court, would have seen "Bouquet de Marie Christine" as a symbol of high society and refined taste. The perfume would be more than just a scent; it would be an embodiment of the elegance and authority of a queen regent, offering them a way to connect with the regal allure of Maria Cristina.
The time during which this perfume was launched was marked by significant political and social shifts. Maria Cristina’s regency, a transitional period between her husband's death and the birth of her son Alfonso XIII, was a time of both uncertainty and anticipation for Spain. Guerlain's creation of a perfume in her honor was not only a tribute to her personal dignity and grace but also a continuation of the brand's tradition of crafting fragrances for the royal and elite circles of Europe. This period saw Guerlain consolidating its reputation for bespoke creations for heads of state and nobility, solidifying its place as a purveyor of luxury and refinement.
Jicky c1889
Jicky by Guerlain: originally created in 1889. It is a classical fragrance and, despite the age, it is timeless and still very modern.
According to the legend, the perfume was named after a girl Aimé Guerlain was in love with when he was a student in England, and then it was said that the perfume was named after his uncle Jacques Guerlain’s nickname – Jicky.
It is more likely, though, that Aimé, a gay man, was hiding his love for someone else named Jacques and someone at Guerlain created the story of a long lost female love to hide his sexuality and to protect the reputation of Guerlain during the late 1800s, which is not unreasonable given the time period.
According to the legend, the perfume was named after a girl Aimé Guerlain was in love with when he was a student in England, and then it was said that the perfume was named after his uncle Jacques Guerlain’s nickname – Jicky.
It is more likely, though, that Aimé, a gay man, was hiding his love for someone else named Jacques and someone at Guerlain created the story of a long lost female love to hide his sexuality and to protect the reputation of Guerlain during the late 1800s, which is not unreasonable given the time period.
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Vol de Nuit Evasion c2007
Vol de Nuit Evasion: created by Mathilde Laurent.in 2007 in cooperation with Alea, the chain of airport duty free shops, and it can only be purchased at the Alea stores in France and Great Britain, as well as the Guerlain boutiques.
“Vol de Nuit EVASION, a nomadic homage to a classic scent from Guerlain.
A special creation reserved for travel retail, Vol de Nuit Evasion tells ‘the tale of a nocturnal evasion, a few hours of an internal adventure, an airy, olfactory bridge between fiction and reality’. A sweet scent of amber and woods that, like the logo on the midnight-blue packaging, diffuses a soft, warm light in the darkness. Find it at selected airport perfume counters and Guerlain boutiques. A fragrance with a sweet opening of rose and peach, evolving towards waves of jasmine and iris. The oriental trail is warmed with woods, amber and vanilla.”
Voila Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain c1900
Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain was first created in 1863 and then re-released in a special presentation for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. The name, which translates to "This is Why I Loved Rosine," carries a deeply emotional and personal resonance, chosen to honor Sarah Bernhardt, the celebrated actress whose birth name was Henriette-Rosine Bernard. As a close friend of the Guerlain family and a muse to Jacques Guerlain, Bernhardt was a woman of extraordinary talent, charm, and allure—qualities that the perfume’s name and composition sought to capture.
The phrase "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" evokes a sense of nostalgia, affection, and admiration. It tells the story of a great love or deep fondness, perhaps for a person, memory, or fleeting moment of beauty. The title invites the wearer to step into a narrative of romantic devotion, which could easily have mirrored Bernhardt’s dramatic life and the adoration she received from her audiences. The scent itself, then, becomes a tribute not only to her but to anyone who evokes a similar admiration, capturing the mystery and allure of the muse figure.
Interpreted in scent, "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" would likely translate to a fragrance that is at once delicate and bold, capturing the dual nature of Bernhardt’s persona—soft in her beauty but powerful in her presence. Floral elements, jasmine, rose and violet, evoke the femininity and elegance of the era, while deeper, warmer notes like cinnamon, leather and vanilla lend a more sensuous, timeless quality. The fragrance would feel like an homage to artistry and the stage, with a complex blend of ingredients designed to linger and captivate, much like Bernhardt herself.
During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a perfume like Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine would have resonated with both men and women in different ways. For women, the fragrance could symbolize an aspiration toward the sophistication and charisma embodied by Bernhardt, a celebrated woman who pushed the boundaries of her time. For men, the perfume might have represented a sense of admiration for a woman of grace and strength, while also carrying a sense of personal refinement and luxury. The perfume’s name and association with Bernhardt would have made it a conversation piece, evoking the cultural allure of the theater and the arts.
The time period in which this perfume was launched, the mid-19th century, was a transformative era in France. The country was at the height of its artistic and cultural influence, with figures like Sarah Bernhardt rising to international fame. The era was defined by opulence, innovation, and an appreciation for the arts, as seen in the 1900 Universal Exhibition, where Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine was presented in a newly designed bottle. Guerlain’s choice to re-release the perfume at such a significant global event reflected the brand’s deep connection to the artistic world and its role in shaping the cultural landscape of the time.
In an era where names like Bernhardt commanded admiration across Europe, the perfume would have served as a fragrant tribute to the ideals of creativity, beauty, and love. Its presentation at the 1900 Exhibition further elevated its status, making it not just a fragrance but a symbol of France’s cultural prominence and the spirit of the Belle Époque.
Une Rose by Guerlain c1908
Une Rose by Guerlain, launched in 1908 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a fragrance that exemplifies the elegance and simplicity of its name. The title "Une Rose" translates directly from French to "A Rose" in English, pronounced [ewn rohz]. This straightforward and evocative name immediately conjures the image of a single, exquisite bloom—a quintessential symbol of beauty, romance, and sophistication.
The choice of the name "Une Rose" reflects Guerlain’s intention to capture the essence of this beloved flower in its purest form. In the early 20th century, the rose was not only a staple in perfumery but also a symbol of refined luxury and timeless grace. By naming the fragrance simply "Une Rose," Guerlain conveyed a sense of singularity and focus, suggesting that the perfume was crafted to celebrate the rose in its most pristine and unadulterated state. The term evokes an image of a freshly picked rose, its petals velvety and dewy, and it brings to mind a sense of romanticism and delicate elegance.
At the time of its release, Une Rose was classified as a rose soliflore, meaning it centered on the rose as the primary note, showcasing it in all its facets. For women of the period, this would have represented an intimate and personal fragrance experience, highlighting the classic allure of the rose—a flower long associated with femininity and grace. The fragrance would have been perceived as a luxurious and refined choice, aligning with the era's penchant for sophisticated and elegant scents.
In the early 1900s, the sourcing of roses for perfumery was a meticulous process. The most coveted rose varieties, such as the Bulgarian Rosa damascena or the Turkish rose, were prized for their rich and complex scents. These roses were often harvested by hand during the early morning hours to ensure their delicate aroma was preserved. The careful extraction and distillation methods used to capture the essence of these roses reflected the high regard in which they were held in the world of fragrance.
Une Rose thus stands as a testament to both Guerlain’s craftsmanship and the timeless appeal of one of perfumery’s most cherished ingredients. Its launch during this period underscores the enduring significance of the rose in creating perfumes that resonate with both elegance and simplicity.
Saturday, February 9, 2013
Foin Coupe by Guerlain c1850
Foin Coupé by Guerlain, launched in 1850 and likely crafted in the 1830s, draws its evocative name from the French phrase meaning "cut hay." This name captures a vivid pastoral scene, conjuring the image of freshly harvested hay fields with their crisp, green, and slightly sweet aroma. The term "Foin Coupé" embodies the rustic charm and the sensory pleasure associated with the countryside at harvest time. By evoking the essence of new mown hay, the name suggests a fragrance that is both fresh and intimately connected to nature.
The olfactory interpretation of Foin Coupé would center around this imagery. The scent would likely open with vibrant, green notes reminiscent of freshly cut grass and hay, carrying a hint of the sweetness and dryness of sun-dried hay. This would appeal to both men and women of the time who were drawn to fragrances that mirrored the natural world and evoked a sense of pastoral tranquility.
During the 19th century, the popularity of Foin Coupé (Guerlain also released in English as "New Mown Hay") reflects a broader trend in perfumery of incorporating natural elements into scent compositions. Fragrances of this period often sought to capture the essence of nature, blending floral and green notes with a touch of the animalic to create depth. The use of natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures was common, but as the century progressed, the inclusion of synthetics like coumarin in the 1896 reformulation allowed for a more consistent and long-lasting representation of these natural scents.
In the context of other fragrances available at the time, New Mown Hay stands out for its distinct approach. While many perfumes were focusing on rich, floral, and exotic notes, Guerlain's choice to craft a scent around the more humble and earthy aroma of cut hay offered a refreshing contrast. This innovative approach highlighted a growing appreciation for authenticity in scent and a deepened connection to the natural world, marking Foin Coupé as both a product of its time and a unique departure from prevailing trends.
Plus Que Jamais c2005
Plus Que Jamais: (More Than Ever): created in 2005. Looking to create the perfect fragrance for the re-opening of the Guerlain boutique on the Champs Elysees, Jean-Paul Guerlain composed Plus Que Jamais, an exclusive fragrance that celebrates the creative spirit of the House.
Precious Heart c2004
Precious Heart by Guerlain: launched in 2004, as a limited edition. Created by Frank Voelkl. Guerlain's second travel retail scent, following 2003's With Love.
Shore's Caprice by Guerlain c1873
Shore's-Caprice, launched in 1873, was a fragrance crafted by Aimé Guerlain, intended as an extrait specifically for use on handkerchiefs and furs. At a time when furs were a staple in high society, the perfume served a practical purpose—masking the natural odor of the pelts with a luxurious scent. The fragrance, inspired by the sea, captured the essence of freshness and sophistication, making it an ideal complement to the elegance of its wearers.
Originally created for Comtesse Emanuella Pignatelli Potocka, Shore's-Caprice soon became a favorite of Julia Forsell, further solidifying its reputation among the elite. The fragrance’s unique composition and connection to aristocracy helped establish its place in high society. However, despite its prominence, the perfume's name was often mistakenly recorded as "Shaw's Caprice" or "Show Caprice" in various publications, a testament to both its widespread influence and the occasional confusion surrounding it.
Originally created for Comtesse Emanuella Pignatelli Potocka, Shore's-Caprice soon became a favorite of Julia Forsell, further solidifying its reputation among the elite. The fragrance’s unique composition and connection to aristocracy helped establish its place in high society. However, despite its prominence, the perfume's name was often mistakenly recorded as "Shaw's Caprice" or "Show Caprice" in various publications, a testament to both its widespread influence and the occasional confusion surrounding it.
Ylang Ylang by Guerlain c1839
Launched in 1839, Ylang Ylang by Guerlain was named after the exotic and fragrant tropical flower, ylang ylang, whose name comes from the Tagalog language of the Philippines, meaning "flower of flowers." By choosing this name, Guerlain aimed to evoke the lush, tropical allure of this flower, which was synonymous with romance, mystery, and natural beauty. The repetition of the word in its name, "ylang ylang," suggests abundance and a floral richness that is hard to match, conjuring up images of vibrant, sun-drenched islands and a sensory experience unlike anything found in Europe at the time.
The word "ylang ylang" itself carries a poetic and exotic connotation. It stirs the imagination, bringing forth visions of delicate golden-yellow petals falling gracefully from trees in faraway tropical landscapes. In scent, "ylang ylang" is interpreted as a rich, sweet floral with hints of creaminess and spice, a fragrance that feels both intoxicating and calming. Its scent is sensual yet soft, with a slightly narcotic effect, making it a perfect representation of the escapism and indulgence that women of the time would have sought. The tropical note of ylang ylang would have transported its wearers to distant lands, creating a sense of exoticism and refinement.
In the 19th century, when Ylang Ylang was launched, Europe was captivated by the mysteries of the East and the allure of the tropics. The colonial expansion had made new and rare materials like ylang ylang accessible, and perfumes using exotic ingredients became a symbol of luxury and adventure. Women of the time would have been drawn to a perfume called "Ylang Ylang" for its promise of something new and thrilling—a fragrance that spoke to their desire for beauty and sophistication, while also indulging in a fantasy of distant, uncharted worlds.
Liu by Guerlain c1929
Liu by Guerlain, launched in 1929 and created by Jacques Guerlain, draws its inspiration from the haunting beauty and tragic romance of Puccini's opera Turandot. In the opera, Liu is the name of a slave girl who plays a pivotal role in the dramatic love story. The plot of Turandot revolves around the cold and cruel Princess Turandot, who has vowed to remain unmarried unless a suitor can solve three riddles. Failure results in execution. Prince Calaf, entranced by her beauty, takes on the challenge. Liu, a slave girl deeply in love with Calaf, represents the tender heart of the opera. Her selfless devotion leads her to sacrifice her life for his, embodying unwavering loyalty and deep, tragic love.
The name Liu is taken from the opera's original Italian libretto, though the character and name have Chinese roots. Pronounced "LU," the name evokes simplicity, grace, and quiet strength. Liu, in the context of the opera, symbolizes purity, selflessness, and unrequited love, images that resonate through the ages. For a perfume, the name "Liu" conjures emotions of delicate elegance, soft femininity, and quiet power—traits that would have appealed to the women of the time, seeking a reflection of their own grace and inner strength.
Women of the late 1920s, emerging from the flapper era and the tumult of World War I, were embracing more freedom and confidence in their personal lives. A fragrance like Liu, named after a character who was at once loyal and tragically romantic, would evoke an air of mystery and tenderness. It allowed women to connect to something poetic and timeless, while also embracing a new era of modernity, where the art of scent was evolving rapidly. The name would have evoked imagery of far-off, exotic lands and timeless emotions, appealing to the sophisticated, worldly woman of the late 1920s.
In scent, Liu captures the essence of its namesake through its classification as an aldehydic floral. Aldehydes were seen as daring, fresh, and modern notes in perfumery at the time. Liu was Guerlain’s first fragrance to use aldehydes in such a bold measure, competing with other iconic aldehydic florals of the period, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921), Arpège by Lanvin (1927), L’Aimant by Coty (1927), and Evening in Paris by Bourjois (1929). These perfumes revolutionized the way women perceived scent—shifting from simple, single-note florals to more complex, sophisticated compositions. The aldehydes in Liu add a sparkling, almost abstract quality to the fragrance, opening it with a burst of brightness that feels crisp and effervescent, yet intangible, like a gleam of light or the soft shimmer of silk.
The 1920s were a time of innovation and excitement in many fields, including perfumery. Aldehydes, once considered experimental, became a symbol of modernity, giving fragrances a crystalline sharpness and a radiant lift that natural ingredients alone couldn't achieve. This innovation allowed perfumes to last longer on the skin, giving them an almost ethereal presence. For Liu, the aldehydes act as a vehicle to transport the wearer into an imagined world of elegance, art, and high romance, much like the opera that inspired it.
The name Liu is taken from the opera's original Italian libretto, though the character and name have Chinese roots. Pronounced "LU," the name evokes simplicity, grace, and quiet strength. Liu, in the context of the opera, symbolizes purity, selflessness, and unrequited love, images that resonate through the ages. For a perfume, the name "Liu" conjures emotions of delicate elegance, soft femininity, and quiet power—traits that would have appealed to the women of the time, seeking a reflection of their own grace and inner strength.
Women of the late 1920s, emerging from the flapper era and the tumult of World War I, were embracing more freedom and confidence in their personal lives. A fragrance like Liu, named after a character who was at once loyal and tragically romantic, would evoke an air of mystery and tenderness. It allowed women to connect to something poetic and timeless, while also embracing a new era of modernity, where the art of scent was evolving rapidly. The name would have evoked imagery of far-off, exotic lands and timeless emotions, appealing to the sophisticated, worldly woman of the late 1920s.
In scent, Liu captures the essence of its namesake through its classification as an aldehydic floral. Aldehydes were seen as daring, fresh, and modern notes in perfumery at the time. Liu was Guerlain’s first fragrance to use aldehydes in such a bold measure, competing with other iconic aldehydic florals of the period, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921), Arpège by Lanvin (1927), L’Aimant by Coty (1927), and Evening in Paris by Bourjois (1929). These perfumes revolutionized the way women perceived scent—shifting from simple, single-note florals to more complex, sophisticated compositions. The aldehydes in Liu add a sparkling, almost abstract quality to the fragrance, opening it with a burst of brightness that feels crisp and effervescent, yet intangible, like a gleam of light or the soft shimmer of silk.
The 1920s were a time of innovation and excitement in many fields, including perfumery. Aldehydes, once considered experimental, became a symbol of modernity, giving fragrances a crystalline sharpness and a radiant lift that natural ingredients alone couldn't achieve. This innovation allowed perfumes to last longer on the skin, giving them an almost ethereal presence. For Liu, the aldehydes act as a vehicle to transport the wearer into an imagined world of elegance, art, and high romance, much like the opera that inspired it.
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Liu by Guerlain c1929,
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Collection: Les Voyages Olfactifs
In May 2009, Guerlain presented the Les Voyages Olfactifs fragrance collection inspired by the cities of Paris, New York and Tokyo. Two other scents were launched: London in 2011, and Shanghai in 2012.
La Cologne Du Parfumeur c2010
La Cologne Du Parfumeur: a citrus aromatic fragrance for women and men, introduced in 2010. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser.
"Originally, I created this Cologne for myself. I composed it at the same time as Idylle, it was my downtime. I wanted a Cologne in the tradition of the great classics but with a modern twist."
"Originally, I created this Cologne for myself. I composed it at the same time as Idylle, it was my downtime. I wanted a Cologne in the tradition of the great classics but with a modern twist."
Spiritueuse Double Vanille c2007
Spiritueuse Double Vanille: launched in 2007 as a limited edition. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain.
Songe d'un Bois d'Ete c2012
Songe d'un Bois d'Ete: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.
Encens Mythique d'Orient c2012
Encens Mythique d'Orient by Guerlain: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.
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