Bouquet de Faunes by Guerlain c1922

Bouquet de Faunes by Guerlain, launched in 1922 and created by Jacques Guerlain, embodies a deeply evocative name and concept. The name "Bouquet de Faunes" is French and can be translated as "Bouquet of Fauns" (pronounced boo-kay duh fawn), immediately conjuring imagery of mythological creatures from classical antiquity. In Greek and Roman mythology, fauns were nature spirits, often associated with forests, pastoral life, and untamed freedom. These playful, mischievous beings represented sensuality and indulgence, living in harmony with the earth and natural surroundings. The word "bouquet," meaning a collection or arrangement, in this context suggests an olfactory gathering of nature's wild scents, deeply rooted in nature but with a touch of luxury and sophistication.

The name itself evokes a sense of intrigue and seduction. "Bouquet de Faunes" feels primal yet refined, hinting at both the wildness of the fauns and the elegance of a crafted bouquet of scent. This duality would likely have been interpreted in scent through a combination of raw, earthy, and animalic notes like leather and musk, interwoven with floral and oriental accords that represent sophistication. One can imagine the perfume embodying the untamed beauty of the woods—like mossy undergrowth, fragrant blossoms, and the leathery warmth of well-worn skin—all balanced by a refined oriental richness that captivates.

As a floral oriental fragrance dominated by leather and musk, Bouquet de Faunes plays with the contrasts between the wild, animalistic elements and the soft, delicate florals that are synonymous with femininity and refinement. The leather note evokes the warm, smooth texture of fur, while musk, with its sensual, slightly animalistic undertones, adds a layer of depth, echoing the connection to the untamed nature of fauns. The florals and oriental accords soften these more primal aspects, giving the fragrance a luxurious, enveloping character that feels both grounded and ethereal.

The perfume, created specifically to scent furs, would likely have appealed to women of the time period who sought to enhance their furs with a fragrance that mirrored the opulence of their garments. Furs, especially in the 1920s, were symbols of wealth, status, and femininity. By perfuming their furs with a scent like Bouquet de Faunes, women were not only masking any natural odors associated with the fur but also adding another layer of luxury to their experience. The scent would envelop them as they moved, creating a lingering aura of sophistication and power.

In the early 1920s, the world was just emerging from the devastation of World War I, entering a period of cultural and social change. The Roaring Twenties represented a time of newfound freedom, especially for women, who began to enjoy more personal and social liberties, including the ability to express themselves through fashion and fragrance. Women of this era, who were breaking free from past constraints, would have found the name Bouquet de Faunes enticing, as it suggests a flirtation with nature's wild beauty and the indulgence of their newfound independence.

Furs were a staple of high society during this time, a luxury that wealthy women adorned themselves with, especially in the colder months. Perfume was often used to complement the richness of the fur, and in some cases, to mask the natural odor that fur could retain. Bouquet de Faunes, with its animalic musk and leather notes, would not only cover up any musty smell but enhance the tactile and sensorial pleasure of wearing fur. As fur is a material that holds scent well, this fragrance would linger on the garment, blending with the natural warmth of the wearer’s skin and creating a unique, long-lasting olfactory signature.

Historically, furs were more than just practical garments—they symbolized status, wealth, and femininity. By the early 20th century, the tradition of perfuming furs was firmly established. As furs retain smells easily, they could hold onto the scent of smoke, perspiration, or the animal from which they were made. Perfumes designed for furs had to complement and mask these odors without overwhelming the wearer. A scent like Bouquet de Faunes would do just that, adding an additional layer of sensuality and luxury to the experience of wearing furs.

Furs were seen as intimate items, and perfuming them with a scent that resonated with animalistic and floral elements would have created a deeply personal and enveloping experience. The fragrance was not just for public admiration but also for the private pleasure of the wearer, blending with the warmth of their body and the soft texture of the fur. This intimate relationship between perfume and garment made scents like Bouquet de Faunes essential accessories for women of the elite class during the time period.

In conclusion, Bouquet de Faunes is a reflection of the era’s fascination with nature, myth, and luxury. The name evokes images of untamed beauty and sensual indulgence, and its composition—dominated by leather and musk—transports the wearer into an intimate world where nature and luxury meet.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women dominated with leather and musk notes. The original color of the parfum was tinted green, probably with chlorophyll which was a common perfume tinting dye at the time. Today, you will find that the perfume will have aged into a deep brown color over the years due to the natural oxidization of the ingredients, namely vanilla. If it still retains its green shade, it is most likely a factice (dummy bottle) filled with colored water, so buyer beware.

• Top notes:  neroli, suede, jasmine 
• Middle notes: bouvardia, orris, marjoram, rose, amber, carnation
• Base notes: musk, vanilla, tonka bean

The Pharmaceutical Era, 1924:

"A new odor, called Bouquet de Faunes is being announced. It seems that M. Guerlain was strolling one morning in the gardens of the Tuilleries and he came upon the famous statue of the faun with flowers grouped about its base. The grace of the faun standing in a bed of flowers and the sweet odors of the blossoms fresh upon the morning air were inspiration enough for this.This extract is sold in beautiful bottles made by the versatile Lalique, each bearing in four places the face of the faun."

The original color of Bouquet de Faunes parfum was a soft green, a hue often achieved through the use of chlorophyll. This natural dye was commonly employed during the early 20th century to tint perfumes, giving them an organic, vibrant quality that echoed the natural origins of many ingredients. The green tint would have complemented the floral and herbal notes within the fragrance, visually evoking the freshness of nature, and offering a sensory suggestion of the botanical elements present in the perfume.

However, over time, the green shade of Bouquet de Faunes would have likely faded as the perfume aged. Natural ingredients like jasmine and vanilla, which are sensitive to oxidation, would cause the liquid to darken to a deep brown color. This change is a natural part of the aging process for vintage perfumes, as exposure to air and light alters their composition. Jasmine, with its rich floral oils, and vanilla, known for its creamy sweetness, are particularly prone to this transformation. The result is not just a shift in color, but often a deepening of the fragrance’s richness, adding to the overall complexity as it matures.

If, however, a vintage bottle of Bouquet de Faunes still retains its original green hue, it’s likely that the bottle is a factice—a dummy bottle used for display purposes, typically filled with colored water instead of actual perfume. These bottles were often created to mimic the original parfum for promotional use in stores. For collectors or buyers of vintage perfumes, this distinction is crucial. The vibrant green shade may look appealing, but it can be a sign that the bottle is not filled with the original fragrance. In these cases, one must be cautious to ensure authenticity, as the market for antique perfumes often contains such display bottles that were never intended for use.

Scent Profile:

As I first encounter Bouquet de Faunes, the initial impression is one of refined warmth, carried by the delicate and citrusy sweetness of neroli. The neroli, extracted from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, lends a fleeting brightness—fresh, slightly green, yet warm like the sun reflecting off orange groves. It awakens the senses gently, with a soft, honeyed nuance, setting the stage for the deeper, richer notes to come.

Following this bright start, the suede note begins to emerge, subtle and soft, evoking the sensation of finely crafted leather gloves, smooth to the touch yet warm and pliable. Unlike harsher leather scents, suede carries an understated elegance—a whispered luxury that wraps around you like a second skin. Its supple, slightly animalistic character hints at something primal, balancing perfectly with the delicate sweetness of jasmine, which weaves through the suede like a vine. The jasmine here is heady yet creamy, with its narcotic floral quality softened by the suede, adding depth to the fragrance.

As the perfume evolves, the middle notes bloom with a symphony of florals and herbal richness. Bouvardia adds a unique floral twist—delicate, fresh, and almost reminiscent of gardenia, but lighter and more playful. This floral heart is anchored by the earthy and powdery elegance of orris, its buttery texture lending a creamy softness to the fragrance. The orris root, derived from the rhizome of the iris plant, introduces a sense of vintage opulence, reminiscent of finely milled powder. There’s an almost tactile quality to it, as if you're brushing your fingers over velvet.

A surprising herbal note of marjoram intertwines with the floral bouquet, bringing a green, slightly peppery warmth that contrasts with the delicate florals. It feels grounding, pulling the scent toward the earth, making it more complex and intriguing. Rose blooms subtly in the background, soft and romantic, adding a familiar floral richness without overpowering the composition. 

The rose is well-balanced, tempered by the resinous sweetness of amber, which creates a golden warmth that radiates through the scent like the glow of a setting sun. The carnation, with its spicy clove-like nuance, adds a final touch of floral complexity, giving the heart of the fragrance a vintage charm and a hint of powdery spiciness.

As the base notes settle, the sensual and animalic richness of musk becomes prominent, enveloping the skin in a soft, velvety cloud. It’s warm, intimate, and slightly animalistic, reminding me of skin kissed by the sun. The musk is deepened by the sweet, comforting creaminess of vanilla. Unlike the gourmand sweetness of modern vanilla, this one feels more natural and earthy, as if the beans have been warmed over a low fire. 

There’s a sense of coziness and familiarity here, which is further enhanced by tonka bean. The tonka brings a slightly nutty, balsamic quality to the base, with whispers of spiced almond and hay. Together, the vanilla and tonka bean create a soft, lingering sweetness that clings to the skin, leaving an inviting trail long after the perfume has dried down.

Bouquet de Faunes is a journey through texture and warmth—each note flowing seamlessly into the next, from the bright citrusy neroli to the supple suede, and from the rich floral heart to the deep, sensual base. The leather and musk dominate, but they are softened by the intricate floral and sweet elements, making the fragrance both luxurious and intimate. It feels like wearing a beloved fur coat, with its musky warmth and floral softness entwined, perfectly suited to the sophisticated woman of the early 20th century.

Bottles:

The Bouquet de Faunes perfume was presented in the remarkable "Flacon Lalique," a bottle designed by the master glassmaker René Lalique. This bottle, in use from 1925 to 1963, held only two of Guerlain’s iconic extraits: Bouquet de Faunes and Jasmin. It holds a unique place in the history of fragrance as it is the only bottle René Lalique ever produced for Maison Guerlain, a distinction that underscores its importance and absolute rarity.

The bottle itself is an exquisite example of Lalique's mastery, featuring a graceful urn-shaped design that rests on an elegant pedestal foot. Its Neo-Classical aesthetic is highlighted by the intricate mask of a maiden’s face molded on the front of the bottle. This maiden’s face is not merely decorative; it is derived from the architectural motif that adorns the entrance of the famed Guerlain boutique at 68 Avenue Champs-Elysées in Paris. Other masks represent the mythical fauns. Beneath one of the masks, the name "Guerlain Paris" is molded, further emphasizing the exclusivity of this bottle and its close connection to the Guerlain brand. The delicate attention to detail, from the facial expressions on the mask to the proportions of the pedestal, conveys a sense of timeless elegance.

The bottle is topped with a frosted glass, disk-shaped stopper which was as functional as it was beautiful. The stopper featured four pierced holes, allowing the threading of baudruchage cording through them. This cord was then tied tightly around the neck to ensure a secure seal, protecting the valuable contents from leakage and preserving the perfume’s integrity during transport. This artisanal touch not only secured the bottle but also conveyed a sense of ceremony, emphasizing the luxuriousness of the extrait within.

There are two versions of this exceptional bottle. The first, produced from 1925 to 1940, is distinguished by a decorative motif of waves or whirlwinds molded just below the neck, a detail that adds a sense of movement and fluidity to the bottle's design. The second version, produced from 1940 to 1963, has a simpler, flat neck without the whirlwind design, though it retains its elegance and is marked with "Made in France" on the foot, signaling its later production date.

The bottle was available in three sizes, each intended to enhance the perfume's presence on a vanity or in a collector’s cabinet. The smallest size, 80ml (2.7 oz), stands at 9.7cm (3.82 inches) and was produced throughout the entire period from 1925 to 1963. The mid-size version, 125ml (4.2 oz), stands at 11cm (4.33 inches) and was available from 1925 until 1958. Finally, the largest version, 250ml (8.4 oz), is an impressive 13.5cm (5.31 inches) tall and was produced from 1925 until 1960. Each size encapsulates the grandeur of Guerlain and Lalique’s collaborative artistry, making these bottles not just containers but coveted works of art in their own right.

Garden & Home Builder,Volume 46, 1928:

"Bouquet de Faunes from Guerlain is an odor of elegance in a frosted vase."

Bouquet de Faunes was also presented in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Guerre flacon (parfum) and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).

Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-1963

Flacon quadrilobe was made by five different glass manufacturers: Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, St Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristalleries de Nancy, Cristal Romesnil, Verreries Brosse, and BSN-GD Flaconnage to hold extraits for various perfumes. Baccarat flacon #24. Created in 1908 for the fragrance Rue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ because of the laurel leaf borders, except for the perfume Coque D’Or, Dawamesk, Liu and Fleur de Feu which show a more 'modernist' design.

Since the bottle shape has been used for many decades, the various glassworks needed to modify their original moulds, including the bottle itself and the stopper. One should remember that with the change from ground glass stoppers to ones with the plastic plugs (plastemeri) - this automatically altered the overall capacity and size of the bottles. Atlas & Monniot in their book, mentioned that it would be "unreasonable" to list all the numerous changes that took place with these alterations. They state that "an original mould may have been modified up to five times for a bottle of the same capacity with only slight differences in the size."

The bottle was used for Bouquet de Faunes up until 1963, when the fragrance was discontinued.

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-1963:

Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’. The bottle was used for Bouquet de Faunes up until 1963, when the fragrance was discontinued.

Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945:

 

Pochet et du Courval created this bottle to house extraits of Shalimar, Jicky, Guerlinade, Fleur de Feu, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Liu, Kadine, Verveine,Vague Souvenir, Champs Elysees,  Geranium d'Espagne, Jasmiralda, Lilas, Bouquet de Faunes, Guerlilas, Gavotte, Coque d'Or, Imperial Russe, Fleur Qui Meurt, Gardenia,  and others.

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Bouquet de Faunes was discontinued in 1963, marking the end of an era for one of Guerlain’s most distinctive and luxurious fragrances. Since its departure, it has become a treasure for collectors, who are particularly drawn to the exquisite Lalique flacons in which the perfume was housed. These bottles, with their elegant urn shape and Neo-Classical mask motifs, are now highly sought after on the market. When they do appear, they often command impressive prices due to both their rarity and their connection to the renowned glassmaker René Lalique.

Despite the demand for this classic scent, Guerlain has never reissued Bouquet de Faunes, leaving enthusiasts and collectors to speculate as to why it has remained in the archives. One plausible reason could be the evolving preferences of customers. As fragrance trends shifted throughout the 20th century, the rich, musky, and leathery notes of Bouquet de Faunes may have seemed out of step with newer, lighter compositions that came into vogue. Additionally, the availability of raw materials used in the original formula, such as natural musk and certain florals, might have posed difficulties, both due to sourcing challenges and changing regulations on ingredients.

Whatever the reason for its continued absence, there is hope among collectors and Guerlain aficionados that one day this masterpiece might make a comeback. A limited edition reissue would not only pay homage to the legacy of Jacques Guerlain and René Lalique but also offer a new generation of fragrance lovers the chance to experience a perfume that encapsulated the elegance and sophistication of its time. The combination of its heritage, luxurious packaging, and timeless composition makes Bouquet de Faunes a fragrance that deserves to be rediscovered.