Shalimar by Guerlain c1925

Shalimar, one of the most iconic fragrances ever created, holds a name steeped in romance and history. Originally crafted by Jacques Guerlain in 1921, the perfume was re-released during the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, a world stage that celebrated the glamour and innovation of the Art Deco era. The name "Shalimar" (pronounced SHA-lee-mar) is derived from a Persian and Urdu word meaning "abode of love" or "temple of love." This evocative name pays homage to the famed Shalimar Gardens in Srinagar, Kashmir, built in the 17th century by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the same muse who inspired the Taj Mahal.

The word "Shalimar" conjures visions of opulent Mughal gardens: fountains bubbling with crystalline water, pathways lined with fragrant blooms, and moonlit nights infused with mystery and romance. It evokes a timeless love story, passion, and exoticism—a sense of stepping into an enchanted world far removed from the mundane. The perfume's name and inspiration suggest luxury and intimacy, transporting the wearer to a sensual paradise.

When Shalimar launched in the 1920s, the world was recovering from the devastation of World War I and stepping into the Jazz Age—a period defined by liberation, optimism, and indulgence. Known as the Roaring Twenties, this era saw women embracing newfound freedoms, from shorter hemlines and bobbed haircuts to jazz clubs and cigarettes. The Art Deco movement influenced everything from architecture to fashion, emphasizing bold geometric designs, rich colors, and luxurious materials. For women of this time, a perfume named "Shalimar" would have embodied the allure of the exotic and the daring sophistication they aspired to.

In 1925, Shalimar stood apart as a daring innovation in perfumery. It is classified as an oriental fragrance, a category that was still relatively novel at the time. Oriental perfumes are characterized by their use of warm, sensual notes like vanilla, amber, and resins, combined with opulent spices and florals. While earlier fragrances often leaned toward lighter florals or powdery concoctions, Shalimar introduced a heady, indulgent richness that captivated the senses. Its combination of bergamot, opulent florals, and a creamy, sensual base of vanilla and tonka bean was both groundbreaking and unforgettable.

Although Guerlain received an award for Shalimar at the 1925 Paris Exposition, it didn’t immediately capture widespread attention. The fragrance's true breakout moment came in the United States, where it had already stirred curiosity and desire even before Jacques Guerlain and his wife stepped off their ship in New York. By the mid-20th century, Shalimar had cemented itself as a timeless classic, beloved for its ability to evoke mystery, passion, and sophistication.

Guerlain officially trademarked the name "Shalimar" on August 24, 1926, and noted its first recorded use in commerce on April 3, 1926. Over the decades, the trademark expanded to include a range of complementary products such as colognes, lotions, and bath oils, underscoring the fragrance’s enduring popularity. Its frequent renewals in 1966, 2006, and 2009 reflect its continued relevance and resonance across generations.

In the context of the 1920s, Shalimar was revolutionary—more daring and exotic than many fragrances on the market. Its oriental character, inspired by a love story and infused with romanticism, struck a chord with women seeking to express their individuality and embrace the freedom of the Jazz Age. Today, it remains a symbol of timeless elegance and a testament to the artistry of Jacques Guerlain, a fragrance that continues to transport wearers to the enchanting gardens of Shalimar.

In a 1931 advertisement, the allure of Guerlain's creations is described in poetic terms, elevating their perfumes to a near-mystical status. "And if she seeks perfume," the ad proclaims, "then will she find in the enchanting, the miraculous creations of Guerlain the end of her quest." Among these masterpieces, Shalimar stands as an unforgettable marvel, evoking "the muted voice of velvet," a phrase that captures its sensual and luxurious essence. This ad underscores Shalimar's emotional impact, a fragrance so captivating that its fame has spread across the globe, solidifying its place in the hearts of women everywhere.

By 1932, Guerlain's message became even more emphatic, positioning Shalimar as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. "A perfume by Guerlain is the epitome of elegance," the ad states, presenting it as the "consummate gift among luxuries." Shalimar is celebrated as "the reigning perfume of the world," its power and beauty acknowledged by sophisticated women in the grandest capitals. This description reinforces its universal appeal, portraying Shalimar as a fragrance that transcends borders, enhancing the grace and sophistication of women who embrace its timeless charm. These ads not only highlight Shalimar's unmatched prestige but also its ability to evoke emotion, allure, and elegance.

History of Shalimar Perfume: 

Shalimar, a fragrance of timeless allure, draws its name and inspiration from the Shalimar Gardens in Srinagar, Kashmir, a place imbued with history, romance, and enduring love. These gardens were built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in honor of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Before ascending the throne, Shah Jahan was known as Prince Khurram, and his love story with Mumtaz Mahal began long before he became emperor.

According to legend, a young Prince Khurram first encountered Arjumand Banu, a girl of extraordinary beauty, at a bustling bazaar where her family worked. Captivated by her elegance and charm, the prince was determined to make her his bride. After he became emperor, he fulfilled his promise, bestowing upon her the name Mumtaz Mahal, meaning "Jewel of the Palace." Their marriage was a true partnership; the two were inseparable in times of both war and peace. Mumtaz Mahal bore Shah Jahan 13 children, but tragically, she passed away at the age of 39 during the birth of their 14th child. Her death left the emperor grief-stricken, and in her memory, he commissioned the Taj Mahal, a symbol of their undying love and devotion.

The Shalimar Gardens held a special place in Mumtaz Mahal’s heart. As one of her favorite retreats, the gardens were a haven of tranquility and beauty, designed with flowing fountains, lush greenery, and fragrant blossoms. Their name, Shalimar, translates to "abode of love" or "home of joy," perfectly reflecting the deep affection Shah Jahan had for his wife and the serenity they found in the gardens together. It is fitting, then, that Guerlain chose this name for a fragrance that embodies romance, passion, and the timeless elegance of a love story that transcends centuries.

Shalimar, the perfume, captures the essence of this legendary romance through its rich, sensual composition. Like the gardens themselves, it is a masterpiece of beauty and artistry, evoking a sense of lush opulence and eternal love. By naming their creation after the Shalimar Gardens, Guerlain paid homage not only to the grandeur of Mughal history but also to the universal and enduring power of love.

Controversy

Shalimar’s immense success in the 1920s brought not only global acclaim but also legal challenges. In 1927, a dispute arose when DuBarry Perfumery Co., an English company already using the name "Shalimar" for a line of toiletry products in the United Kingdom, filed opposition against Guerlain’s trademark claim. This legal battle disrupted Guerlain’s ability to market Shalimar under its iconic name in the British market for a significant period.

To navigate this obstacle, Guerlain adopted a practical solution. Rather than discontinuing sales in the United Kingdom, they labeled bottles destined for export with their stock catalog numbers—“No. 90,” “No. 91,” and “No. 92”—instead of the Shalimar name. These designations allowed the fragrance to continue reaching British customers without infringing upon the contested trademark. This workaround persisted throughout the late 1920s and into the early 1930s, reflecting Guerlain’s determination to preserve Shalimar’s presence in the competitive global market, even under challenging circumstances.

Despite these hurdles, Shalimar's reputation remained untarnished, with its popularity continuing to soar. This legal conflict highlights the fragrance’s enormous impact, as rival companies recognized its success and sought to protect their own interests against Guerlain's expanding influence. The story of Shalimar during this period serves as a testament to its enduring allure and Guerlain’s strategic adaptability in safeguarding the legacy of one of the most celebrated perfumes in history.

The legacy of Shalimar by Guerlain was not without its share of challenges, as its overwhelming success inspired both imitators and legal battles. One such case involved DuBarry Perfumery Co., also known as Goldstone Laboratories in Hove, England. By 1916, DuBarry was already marketing a line of toiletries under the name "Shalimar," which included manicure products and creams. This predates Guerlain's official launch of the Shalimar perfume in 1925. The DuBarry Shalimar line expanded steadily, and advertisements continued to appear well into the 1970s, showcasing products like Crème Shalimar. This long-standing use of the name "Shalimar" became a significant point of contention, ultimately leading to Guerlain’s legal troubles over trademark rights in the United Kingdom. The coexistence of these brands reveals how the name "Shalimar" had already resonated in the beauty industry, albeit in very different contexts.

Another significant challenge emerged in 1931 when Villon Perfumer, led by Samuel A. Klein, sought to capitalize on Shalimar’s reputation. Klein took small amounts of Guerlain’s Shalimar and blended them with his own inexpensive perfume mixture, then rebottled the result into smaller vials. These were marketed under misleading names such as “Guerlain’s Shalimar et Villon Blend” and “Genuine Extracts of Shalimar with Villon Blender,” with the claim of being “wholly independent of Guerlain.” This brazen attempt to profit from Shalimar’s prestige attracted swift legal action from Guerlain, which filed a lawsuit to protect the integrity of its trademarks for both Shalimar and Mitsouko.

In court, scientific and practical tests provided uncontroverted evidence that the contents of Villon’s vials were significantly different from Guerlain’s Shalimar. The legal proceedings highlighted the lengths to which imitators would go to exploit Shalimar’s allure, as well as Guerlain’s rigorous commitment to safeguarding the quality and exclusivity of its products. These incidents not only underscore the immense popularity of Shalimar but also illustrate how its success became a double-edged sword, necessitating constant vigilance to protect its legacy. Despite such challenges, Shalimar’s name and reputation remained untarnished, continuing to dominate the fragrance world with its undeniable sophistication and mystique.

Original Fragrance Composition

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: Madagascar vanilla, leather, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine absolute, Grasse rose absolute, Madagascar vanilla, Florentine orris, Indonesian patchouli, Java vetiver, Omani frankincense, Ethiopian civet
• Base notes: Madagascar vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean and Tonkin musk

In the beginning of the 20th century, perfumers traditionally used a combination of fresh natural materials such as bergamot and lemon, supplemented with animal and balsamic fixatives. These were then accented with newly discovered synthetic and derived materials such as vanillin, coumarin, vetiveryl acetate and hydroxycitronellelol. These were added to the newly developed floral absolutes which ended up inspiring a generation of new perfumes.  

The structure of Shalimar really does not differ from other perfumes of the late 19th and early 20th century. These fragrances generally employed opulent florals like rose, heliotrope and jasmine, resins, woods, pungent animalics, earthy notes of vetiver and patchouli and bright citrus notes such as bergamot. What sets Shalimar apart from the others was the extreme overdoses of bergamot and vanilla.

Shalimar made use of the ambreine accord, which is formed between bergamot (30%), vanillin (or ethyl vanillin, 3%), coumarin (9%) and civet, with woody (vetiver, patchouli 4% and sandalwood) and rose notes (Calkin and Jellinek 1994). This was also used in the following oriental ambery fragrances: L'Origan by Coty, Must de Cartier and Obsession by Calvin Klein.

Shalimar was based on a large proportion of expressed and distilled essential oils to which animalic and balsamic materials were added as fixatives. At the time Shalimar was made, it was the custom to use a high proportion of alcoholic tinctures made from natural products rather than use concentrated absolutes and resins. 

The natural tinctures used in Shalimar were vanilla, benzoin and tonka bean that adds a naturalness to the ethyl vanillin and coumarin. This classical structure was heralded by the addition of 3% of vanillin and 9% coumarin. Ethyl vanillin, which does not occur in nature, is usually regarded as being approximately four times as strong as vanillin. Vanillin adds richness and sweetness to floral/woody and oriental scents.  

Shalimar was one of the first scents to incorporate the synthetic vanilla compound, vanillin (Methoxy-3-Hydroxybenzaldehyde). Jacques Guerlain believed that the scent of vanilla was an aphrodisiac, so while examining a sample of vanillin, suddenly poured the entire contents into a nearby bottle of Jicky,," just to see what would happen." The resulting concoction was to be named Shalimar.

Perfume Shrine has noted that "Vanillin was first isolated as a relatively pure substance in 1858 by Nicolas-Theodore Gobley, by evaporating a vanilla extract to dryness and recrystallizing the resulting solids. In 1874, German scientists Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarmann found a way to synthesize vanillin from coniferin, a glycoside of isoeugenol found in pine bark (they went on to found a company which now belongs to Symrise and produce it industrially). In 1876, Karl Reimer synthesized vanillin from another source: guaiacol. The laboratories De Laire bought the patent for vanillin and sold the product to Guerlain for their perfumery, first used in Jicky. But, Jicky already contained vanillin along with natural vanilla extract, as well as coumarin and linalool. The secret to the medicinal, smoky yellow vanillin of Jicky, reprised in Shalimar, was the remnants of guaiacol and phenols, lending an autumnal darkness to what would otherwise be a confectionary sweet cream. This is the reason that Guerlain insisted on ordering the impure grade of vanillin even when the chemical process was improved."

The early versions of synthetic vanillin were sweeter and creamier than natural vanilla. Famous perfumer Ernest Beaux, realized that Shalimar was a great perfume and thus complained: "When I do vanilla I get crème anglaise, when Guerlain does it he gets Shalimar!"

Jean-Paul Guerlain has said, “Vanilla is famous as an aphrodisiac and I think that this is true. My grandfather, Jacques Guerlain, taught me how to love vanilla as it adds something wonderfully erotic to a perfume. It turned Shalimar into an evening gown with an outrageously plunging neckline.”

Coumarin occurs naturally in tonka bean and melilot (Melilotus officinalis or sweet clover) and in smaller amounts in lavender and narcissus. Tonka bean tinctures have a rich, sweet, warm and vanilla-like nuances and is used as a fixative. 

The top note is dominated by 30% of bergamot oil, as well as other essential citrus oils, neroli and rosewood. If you notice, Shalimar is not a flower heavy fragrance. Its use of florals is muted by the main notes of spices, woods and resins. In Shalimar we see a very small amount of natural rose oil and absolute. 

Making up the rest of the ambreine accord is 4% patchouli, sandalwood, civet and vetiver. The spicy aspect is attained by the use of cinnamon bark oil. Opoponax is used as a fixative and to impart a smooth, slightly floral, balsamic character to the oriental base notes found in Shalimar. 

Other tinctures were the animalics of civet, castoreum, ambergris and musk. Castoreum was very important to the development of Shalimar and forms the leathery aspect of the perfume's foundation. 

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Shalimar by Guerlain: For brunettes of the exotic type."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Shalimar by Guerlain: Subtle scent tinged with amber, you are like a strange flower that takes root in the body to better stretch the flesh!"

Reformulated Fragrance Composition

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Sicilian lemon, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine absolute, may rose absolute, heliotrope, opoponax, Singapore patchouli, Florentine iris
• Base notes: orris root, Mysore sandalwood, Java vetiver, Tonkin musk, incense, Venezuelan tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla, Ethiopian civet, balsam of Peru, Siamese benzoin, leather, ambergris

To me, the scent of Shalimar is deep and velvety with the scent of lemon custard spiked with medicinal vanilla. Exotic night-blooming flowers, precious incense and woods blend exquisitely with the animalic notes of natural ambergris, leather, Tonkin musk and Ethiopian civet to create a heady aphrodisiac. Shalimar is one of the best selling perfumes for almost 90 years and it's magic is undeniable.

Personally I find that vintage Shalimar perfumes smell the best, as their perfume oils were more concentrated and natural and didn't have the synthetic chemical smell that today's reformulated versions have. The vintage perfumes have a delightful musky, smoky, velvety and well rounded accord that are not comparable in the Shalimar of today due to IFRA restrictions and the fact that the perfumers at Guerlain may not have access to exclusive perfume bases once used in the composition.

If you wish to obtain the earlier versions, I suggest the Shalimar of the 1920s up until the 1990s. They have aged beautifully, like a fine wine. Ebay always has some really good examples, and they are usually at bargain prices.

I suggest getting the perfumes that look dark, syrupy and thick as the alcohol and water have evaporated, leaving behind a highly concentrated essence. I find that these last a very long time when applied to the skin and the vanilla warms up nicely. Please remember that the older Shalimar is, the darker it will be in the bottle. If it is light colored, it is probably newer.

If you can find it, a vintage bottle of Scherk's Intermezzo perfume smells similar to Shalimar, but it is a tad weaker and lighter in character, a good substitute if you find Shalimar a little too strong. Easier to find, as well as cheaper, but no less luxurious, is Coty's Emeraude perfume, try to find early examples and not the newer formulations.

Ancillary Products

Shalimar was so popular that Guerlain came out with ancillary products that showcased its unique scent. The first of these was the Shalimar Face Powder.

A 1931 ad reads: " So why do you not hasten to try Guerlain's new achievement, Shalimar Powder? It is scented with the famous Shalimar. ... Guerlain meant this Shalimar Powder to give the skin an effect of surreal loveliness. And his patrons say that it does." In 1930, Shalimar face powder was then packed in a sealed container which had a “window” of transparent tissue, so that the purchaser could see the actual color.

Then came the Shalimar scented Lotion Vegetale, meant to perfume the hair before or after shampooing, combed through the hair to make it soft and smooth, although men also used it as an aftershave lotion or beard scent too. The 8 oz capsule bottles were sold from 1953 until 1971, earlier bottles were tall and rectangular with a glass ball stopper.. Another hair groom was Stilboide Fluide.

Shalimar Eau de Cologne, released in 1936, in USA in 1937, it came in four sizes initially. “Toilet water in an oval bottle with atomizer top is new, $5.” ( 1939) “Guerlain now has a $5 size of toilet water in all the popular fragrances such as Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Coque D’Or, Liu, Mitsouko, Sous Le vent and Jicky.” (1940, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 46) Later the Cologne Spray was launched. A 1950 article reads "Guerlain recommends spraying a room with their famous Shalimar eau de cologne. This is a lighter form of their famous Shalimar. Because it is lighter, it is less expensive and can be used more lavishly."

Shalimar Talcum powder in the frosted bottle was introduced in 1950, it was being put up in a white plastic canister in the late 1960s, then it was sold in a turquoise canister in the 1980s.

Shalimar Dusting Powder was introduced around 1955 housed in a faux tortoiseshell plastic powder box, then inside of a white plastic powder box in the 1960s and 1970s, then in a turquoise plastic powder box in the 1983, then a navy blue and white plastic powder box starting in the late 1990s, and is still being sold today.

Guerlain's Creme Hydratante introduced in 1959, a lanolin based moisturizer, lightly scented and meant to be lavished all over the body, particularly on arms and legs. Still sold around 1967.

Shalimar Toilet Water debuted in 1925 in a splash bottle, succeeded by the Toilet Water Spray (Eau de Toilette around 1959) .

Shalimar Film Spray Body Lotion was a scented, pink, light moisturizing body lotion in spray form created in 1966 and sold until 1975.

Shalimar Capillaque hair spray,  Capillaque was the name of scented hair sprays/brilliantine sprays . A trademark was filed in 1961 for the hair spray and the trademark expired in 1988, but I am pretty sure this was discontinued by around 1971.

Shalimar Body Shampoo, a shower and body wash, was released in 1976.

Guerlain released Shalimar's ancillary products in this turquoise packaging starting in 1983, this line was known as Les Voluptes du Bain de Guerlain and sold until 1999, when the products were given a makeover with a shape hearkening back to the original Shalimar flacon and accented with dark blue plastic and gold trim. Three new products were offered, Perfumed Bath Salts, Sensual Milky Veil.

Bottles:

Shalimar Chauve Souris Flacons: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/shalimar-chauve-souris-flacons.html

Shalimar Flacon Goutte: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2015/10/shalimar-flacon-goutte.html

Shalimar Montre Flacons: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/shalimar-montre-flacon.html

Shalimar Quadrilobe Flacons: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/shalimar-quadrilobe-flacon.html

Shalimar Eau de Toilettes: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/09/shalimar-eau-de-toilettes.html

Shalimar Wartime Flacons: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/shalimar-flacon-de-guerre-and-flacon.html

Shalimar Limited Edition Bottles:

Shalimar 60th Anniversary Flacon c1986: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/shalimar-60th-anniversary-flacon-c1986.html

http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/shalimar-eau-de-parfum-c1999-limited.html

Shalimar 50 ounce Parfum in Chauve Souris flacon from 2001, limited to 40 examples worldwide. This same size was also used for the factices.

Shalimar 80th Anniversary Années Folles Limited Edition Bottle c2005: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/shalimar-c2005-80th-anniversary-limited.html

Shalimar Oiseau de Paradis c2009 - http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2014/08/shalimar-oiseau-de-paradis-c2009.html

Fleurs de Shalimar - Collector Flacons c2009: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2015/01/fleurs-de-shalimar-collector-flacons.html

Shalimar - Edition Charms c2010: http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2015/01/shalimar-edition-charms-c2010.html

These Shalimar products may still be found::

• Eau de Cologne 2.5 oz
• Eau de Toilette Spray 2.5 oz
• Eau de Toilette Spray 1.7 oz
• Eau de Toilette Gold Bee Bottle 16.9 oz
• Eau de Toilette Gold Bee Bottle 33.8oz
• Eau de Toilette White Bee Bottle 16.9 oz
• Habit de Fete 3.1 oz Eau de Toilette Refillable Spray  
• Habit de Fete 3.1 oz Eau de Toilette Refill Spray  
• Habit De Fete Eau de Parfum Spray Refill 1.69 oz
• Habit De Fete Perfume Spray Refill 0.27 oz
• Shalimar 3 oz Eau de Parfum  
• Eau de Parfum Spray 2.5 oz 
• Shalimar 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum 
• Eau de Parfum Spray 1 oz
• Shalimar 0.25 oz Extrait/Parfum  
• Shalimar 0.50 oz Extrait/Parfum 
• Shalimar 1 oz Extrait/Parfum  
• Sensual Milky Veil (Body Lotion) 6.8 oz
• Shalimar Body Lotion  
• Silky Moisturising Body Mist Spray 3.4 oz
• Shalimar Body Cream  
• Sensual Body Oil 3.3 oz
• Perfumed Dusting Powder 
• Bath Salts 17.6 oz
• Ritual Bath Gel 6.8 oz
• Shalimar Shower Gel  
• Voluptuous Foaming Bath Bottle 6.8 oz
• Deodorant Spray 3.4 oz
• Hair Gel 0.25 oz
• Shalimar Light Eau de Toilette Spray 2.5 oz
• Shalimar Beautifying Hair Gel
• Soothing Bath Oil Beads
• Bath Essence
• Body Shampoo
• Shalimar Perfumed Soap 

The line consisted of the following products in the late 1960s-1970s:

• Parfum
• Parfum Spray
• Eau de Toilette
• Eau de Cologne
• Spray Cologne
• Film Spray Parfumé
• Capillaque
• Bath Oil
• Déodorant
• Talc 
• Crème Hydratante
• Flanelle pour le linge

1980s-1990s Ancillary Products:

Current Bottles & Ancillary Products:

Today you can purchase Shalimar in various forms:

• 0.25 oz Parfum (Extrait)
• 0.50 oz Parfum (Extrait)
• 1.00 oz Parfum (Extrait)
• 3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 3 oz Eau de Toilette Refillable Spray
• 3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray Refill
• 6.8 oz Body Lotion
• 7 oz Body Crème
• 4.4 oz Perfumed Dusting Powder

I have separate blog posts on Shalimar bottles and its flanker scents.