Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain c1904

Mouchoir de Monsieur, launched by Guerlain in 1904 and created by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name steeped in elegance and refinement. The phrase "Mouchoir de Monsieur" translates from French to "Gentleman’s Handkerchief," immediately evoking an image of sophistication, formality, and the social graces of a bygone era. During the Belle Époque period, the custom of scenting handkerchiefs was a mark of aristocratic refinement, and such an accessory was an essential part of a gentleman's ensemble. Handkerchiefs, often intricately embroidered and made from fine linen or silk, were carried both for practical purposes and as symbols of taste and status. With this name, Mouchoir de Monsieur suggests not only the personal touch of fragrance on such a delicate fabric but also the idea of a perfume that envelops the man in an aura of cultivated charm.

The choice of "Mouchoir de Monsieur" as a wedding gift for a couple of friends reflects the intimate and sentimental aspects of the fragrance. It represents a gesture that is both personal and ceremonial—perfuming the handkerchief for a gentleman symbolizes care and thoughtfulness, while also marking the beginning of a new life chapter with grace. The name evokes images of a well-dressed man of the era, impeccably groomed and carrying the lightly scented handkerchief in his pocket, ready for moments of polite society, romantic encounters, or subtle acts of gallantry. It is a scent tied to the ritual of refinement and chivalry, a reminder of when gestures were laden with meaning.

As an aromatic musky oriental fragrance, Mouchoir de Monsieur would have conjured a sense of warmth, elegance, and masculinity for the men of the time. The scent of musk would have added an animalic and sensual undertone, lending depth to the wearer’s presence. The oriental notes—likely comprising spices, resins, and warm woods—would create an atmosphere of richness, with the air of mystery and opulence. Such a fragrance would complement a gentleman’s persona, an understated yet powerful signal of class and allure. It would have been particularly well-suited to the sophisticated social spheres of the Belle Époque, where scent was not just about personal hygiene but a reflection of one's social identity and an extension of style.

During the Belle Époque, the practice of perfuming not only the skin but also accessories like handkerchiefs, gloves, and veils was a widely embraced custom, particularly among the upper classes. This was a time of immense cultural and artistic flourishing, where fashion, elegance, and attention to detail defined everyday life. Fragrance played an important role in this atmosphere of indulgence and self-expression, often adding to the romantic and luxurious allure of the period. Handkerchiefs, being delicate and portable, were the perfect canvas for a soft whisper of scent, allowing the fragrance to linger subtly without overwhelming.

For men of this time, a perfume named Mouchoir de Monsieur would resonate with their desire for a sophisticated yet discreet fragrance that encapsulated refinement. While stronger colognes and perfumes for men were beginning to emerge, this name suggested something more personal, a fragrance designed not for overt display but for those fleeting, intimate moments when a gentleman might offer his handkerchief to a lady or dab it on his skin. The Belle Époque was an era of decadence, beauty, and ornamentation, and a perfume like Mouchoir de Monsieur would have fit perfectly into this culture, reflecting the refined tastes of men who appreciated tradition, elegance, and the subtle power of scent.

Thus, Mouchoir de Monsieur stands as a testament to a time when scent was an art form, crafted to reflect not only one's persona but also the rituals of daily life, evoking an atmosphere of aristocratic charm and understated sensuality.

 

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic musky oriental fragrance for men.

• Top notes: lavender, absinthe, mignonette, geranium, bergamot, almond
• Middle notes: heliotrope, jasmine, rose, iris, tuberose, neroli, wood, cinnamon, civet, Tonkin musk
• Base notes: ambergris, opoponax, vanilla, tonka bean and musk

Scent Profile:

Recently, I was able to obtain a sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the herbal citrusy freshness of Guerlain's Mouchoir de Monsieur, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around.  

As I breathe in the opening notes of Mouchoir de Monsieur, the sharp yet calming scent of lavender immediately greets me, reminiscent of sun-warmed fields in Provence. Its herbal, slightly camphorous nature is softened by the presence of absinthe, which brings an intriguing, almost bitter green edge, echoing the sharpness of anise with a hint of mystery. 

Alongside these, mignonette adds a delicate, sweet floral undertone, with a greenness that balances the aromatic sharpness. The geranium’s crisp, rosy scent adds a refreshing element, while bergamot’s bright citrus sparkle cuts through the heavier tones, infusing the opening with a lightness, making the air feel crisp and uplifting. Almond lends a creamy, nutty sweetness in the background, softening the sharper herbal edges and grounding the introduction in warmth.

As the fragrance unfolds into its heart, I am met with a bouquet of florals. The sweet, powdery heliotrope dominates, its almond-vanilla warmth drawing me deeper into the scent. Jasmine, soft and lush, intertwines with the heliotrope, bringing a heady richness that blooms fully against the backdrop of iris, which exudes a powdery, almost velvety softness, blending perfectly with the floral accord. 

Rose adds a faint hint of classic romanticism, a fresh but soft floral tone that feels delicate and almost dewy. Tuberose, with its creamy white petals, adds a sensual depth, creating a more textured, rounded floral experience. Neroli lifts the floral blend with its fresh, bitter orange blossom brightness, making the heart feel less heavy.

The spice of cinnamon gradually emerges, its warmth and subtle sweetness mingling with the florals, giving the fragrance a deeper, more exotic character. There’s a hint of wood in the background, grounding the florals and hinting at the complexity to come. As the spices meld with the florals, civet appears—an animalic, musky note that adds a slightly feral, sensual edge. The warmth of Tonkin musk, rich and sweet, provides a sultry undercurrent that brings an intimate, almost primal element to the composition.

As the fragrance reaches its base, a soft, enveloping warmth emerges. Ambergris gives the scent a salty, oceanic warmth, almost like warm skin after a day in the sun. There’s an earthy sweetness from opoponax, which adds a resinous depth and complexity, bringing a slightly smoky, balsamic undertone. Vanilla and tonka bean provide a rich, creamy sweetness, making the base feel both comforting and luxurious. 

The soft powderiness of the vanilla pairs beautifully with the lingering floral notes of heliotrope and iris, while the musk creates a long-lasting warmth that lingers sensually on the skin. Together with the opoponax, the musk forms a smoky, sweet, and slightly animalic aura that gives Mouchoir de Monsieur its distinctive oriental musky profile. The result is a fragrance that is warm, enveloping, and slightly mysterious, perfectly capturing the refined yet sensual nature of the gentleman for whom this scent was crafted.

Bottles:

Originally, it was housed inside a beautiful Baccarat crystal flacon dubbed the Escargot, a flacon designed by Raymond Guerlain, painted in an 18kt gold snail motif. 

It was also presented as an eau de toilette in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Amphore flacon (parfum), flacon Capsule (lotion vegetale).

Flacon Escargot (Snail) c1902-1962:

Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits of Mouchoir de Monsieur, Voilette de Madame and Ai Loe. Triangular shaped bottle; the stylization of the Guerlain name across its shoulder, becomes the body of a snail from which it takes its name 

Flacon Louis XVI c1902-2002:

Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits of Apres L'Ondee, Muguet, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Violette a deux Sous, Aux Bon Vieux Temps, Sillage, Avril en Fleurs, Ai Loe and others. Flacon has also been used for special limited editions such as Chamade. The original box is white, cylindrically shaped and has Guerlain Paris in gold leaf.

Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-Present:

Flacon quadrilobe was made by five different glass manufacturers: Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, St Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristalleries de Nancy, Cristal Romesnil, Verreries Brosse, and BSN-GD Flaconnage to hold extraits for various perfumes. Some later bottles hold eaux de toilette or eaux de parfum. Baccarat flacon #24. Created in 1908 for the fragrance Rue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ because of the laurel leaf borders, except for the perfume Coque D’Or, Dawamesk, Liu and Fleur de Feu which show a more 'modernist' design.

Since the bottle shape has been used for many decades, the various glassworks needed to modify their original moulds, including the bottle itself and the stopper. One should remember that with the change from ground glass stoppers to ones with the plastic plugs (plastemeri) - this automatically altered the overall capacity and size of the bottles. Atlas & Monniot in their book, mentioned that it would be "unreasonable" to list all the numerous changes that took place with these alterations. They state that "an original mould may have been modified up to five times for a bottle of the same capacity with only slight differences in the size."

 

Flacon Amphore (Amphora) c1955-1982:

Used for extraits of Mouchoir de Monsieur, Ode, Shalimar, Chant D'Aromes, Liu, Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Muguet, Chamade, Sous le Vent, Vol de Nuit, Une Fleur. and more. Bottle made by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval.

 

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-2001:

Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’. 

Flacon Capsule c1920-1971:

Pochet & Du Courval created this bottle to hold Lotion Vegetale in various scents, such as L'Heure Bleue, Jicky, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Chant D'Aromes and others. Lotion Vegetale was a hair dressing created in 1900; this presentation was launched in 1920.

 

Flacon Abeilles (Bees) - c1828 - Present:

Used for eaux de cologne and eaux de toilette. Made by Pochet et du Courval. Originally created to house 'Eau de Cologne Impériale' for the Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III; its decorative bees were a symbol of Napoleon and have since then, become Guerlain’s house symbol. You could get your bee bottle personalized with your monogram or the bees painted with gilded enamel. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Mouchoir de Monsieur was a celebrated fragrance by Guerlain that, at some point, was discontinued—though the exact date remains unknown. Despite its initial discontinuation, it was still available for purchase as late as 1953, suggesting its enduring appeal among aficionados of classic scents.

In 1955, Guerlain made the decision to relaunch Mouchoir de Monsieur, reintroducing it to the market with a modern twist. This relaunch involved a meticulous re-orchestration of the fragrance, incorporating contemporary ingredients to update its profile while preserving its original character. The reformulation aimed to align the classic scent with the evolving preferences of mid-20th-century consumers, ensuring that Mouchoir de Monsieur could once again captivate and charm a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts.

Combat, 1959:

"The name Le Mouchoir de Monsieur evokes one of Guerlain's oldest perfumes, a relic from a time when men's fragrances carried a different character than those of today. Contemporary women might not consider it, assuming it to be a scent more suited to men—characterized by a dry, fresh lavender aroma. This perfume harks back to the Belle Époque, when dandies would scent their blonde mustaches and handkerchiefs with a fragrance that reflected their unique, refined standards of masculinity.

Le Mouchoir de Monsieur is a masterful blend of ambergris, opoponax, mignonette, and heliotrope, creating a scent that harmonizes beautifully with today’s neo-romantic fashion trends. Its velvety, sunny fragrance carries a subtle yet compelling stridency, perfectly complementing the ethereal, floral muslins of summer dresses. It evokes images of sun-drenched gardens, lush with vibrant blooms and shaded by cooling places where watercress beds are encircled by irises and strawberry flowers.

Whether Guerlain still produces this poetic fragrance is uncertain, but it remains preserved in their archives. If women were aware of it, its allure would surely lead to a swift and enthusiastic rediscovery."

Reformulated Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic citric fragrance for men.

• Top notes: lavender, lemon verbena, geranium and bergamot
• Middle notes: patchouli, cinnamon, jasmine, neroli and rose
• Base notes: woody notes, iris, amber, civet, vanilla, fougere accord, tonka bean and oakmoss

Scent Profile:

Mouchoir de Monsieur unveils its aromatic charm with a sophisticated citrus twist, evoking a sense of refined elegance and timeless appeal.

As you first experience the top notes, a crisp, invigorating wave of lavender sweeps over you, infusing the air with its calming, herbaceous essence. The fragrance is immediately brightened by the zesty freshness of lemon verbena, adding a vibrant sparkle that awakens the senses. Geranium contributes a green, slightly rosy undertone, enriching the bouquet with its delicate complexity, while bergamot brings a touch of citrusy sophistication, blending seamlessly to create an invigorating and fresh introduction.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a captivating interplay of patchouli and cinnamon. The earthy, woody depth of patchouli mingles harmoniously with the warm, spicy sweetness of cinnamon, creating a rich, enveloping aroma.

 Jasmine adds a floral elegance, its opulent and sensual character enhancing the composition with a subtle touch of romance. Neroli infuses the fragrance with its bright, honeyed floral notes, while rose contributes its classic, velvety depth, adding layers of sophistication and warmth.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a complex and enduring finish. Woody notes impart a deep, grounding essence, evoking the tranquility of a well-worn leather chair or a polished wooden desk. Iris introduces a velvety, powdery touch, creating a luxurious backdrop for the sweet, resinous warmth of amber. Civet adds a hint of animalic richness, deepening the scent with its musky, provocative undertone. 

Vanilla smooths and sweetens the composition, while a fougère accord brings a traditional yet modern freshness. Tonka bean adds a creamy, slightly nutty nuance, and oakmoss completes the base with its earthy, forest-like quality, ensuring a complex and lingering finish that remains captivating long after the initial application.

Bottles:

Travel Flacon c1955-1980:

A simple splash bottle made in 1955 for Ode Eau de Cologne, subsequently containing all Eau de Colognes. The bottle was made to fit into a train case, hence its name. It was used for Vetiver in 1959 (at that time, the Vetiver label was red), and later for Habit Rouge and Mouchoir de Monsieur as well, with a black rim around the lid instead of the original feminine white one. Unknown designer.

Flacon Abeilles (Bees) - c1828 - Present:

Used for eaux de cologne and eaux de toilette. Made by Pochet et du Courval. Originally created to house 'Eau de Cologne Impériale' for the Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III; its decorative bees were a symbol of Napoleon and have since then, become Guerlain’s house symbol. You could get your bee bottle personalized with your monogram or the bees painted with gilded enamel. Since the late 1990s, the bee bottle has been equipped with a spray mechanism.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 2001, the fragrance was reissued as a limited edition in its original escargot flacon.  Presented in a 200ml bottle, it was exclusive to Harrods in the UK.

 

You can still purchase the fragrance in the Abeilles spray flacon