Jasmin by Guerlain c1833

Jasmin by Guerlain was launched in 1833, crafted by the illustrious Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The choice of the name "Jasmin" reflects a deliberate focus on the eponymous flower, a staple in the world of perfumery. The word "Jasmin" comes from the French language, derived from the Persian word "yasmin," which means "gift from God." This name evokes images of lush, blooming gardens where the delicate jasmine flower thrives. The name conjures emotions of elegance, purity, and timeless beauty, evoking visions of serene, sunlit mornings where the air is filled with the intoxicating scent of jasmine blossoms.

In terms of scent, "Jasmin" is interpreted as a tribute to the jasmine flower, renowned for its rich, floral fragrance. Jasmine is celebrated for its heady, sweet, and somewhat exotic aroma, which can be both uplifting and sensuous. This fragrance captures the essence of jasmine's creamy, honeyed nuances and its ability to evoke a sense of luxurious opulence.

For women in the 19th century, a perfume named "Jasmin" would have been highly appealing. During this era, jasmine was a symbol of sophistication and romance. The fragrance would have been associated with the lavish gardens of the elite, where jasmine was often cultivated for its beauty and scent. Women of the time would have related to "Jasmin" as a marker of refinement and taste, aligning with the trend towards floral fragrances that dominated the period.

In the context of the early 19th century, the launch of Jasmin by Guerlain both aligned with and enhanced prevailing fragrance trends. Floral perfumes, especially those featuring jasmine, were popular among perfumers and customers alike. Guerlain's decision to focus on jasmine was in keeping with the era's affinity for floral scents, yet the meticulous crafting and branding of Jasmin showcased Guerlain's commitment to excellence and innovation in perfumery. Thus, while not entirely unique, Jasmin exemplified the elegance and sophistication of the time, solidifying Guerlain’s reputation in the perfume industry.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Jasmin by Guerlain is a soliflore, a perfume designed to highlight the singular scent of jasmine, a flower that captivated the fragrance world during the 19th century. Jasmine, or "Jasmin" in French, was a highly sought-after note for its rich, intoxicating aroma that symbolized luxury and sophistication. The name itself evokes a sense of opulence and romance, conjuring images of lush gardens where the jasmine flowers unfurl their delicate petals under the sun, releasing their sweet and heady fragrance into the air.

In the 19th century, the crafting of jasmine perfumes involved a meticulous process. Early formulations relied on natural jasmine extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures to capture the flower's essence. These methods involved extracting the aromatic oils from jasmine petals, a labor-intensive process that yielded a scent both rich and complex. The natural oils were prized for their depth and purity, embodying the floral sweetness and subtle spiciness characteristic of jasmine.

As the century progressed, the perfume industry began incorporating newly discovered synthetics such as vanillin. These synthetic compounds allowed perfumers to enhance and stabilize the jasmine scent, providing a more consistent and longer-lasting fragrance. The use of vanillin and other synthetics represented a significant advancement in perfumery, enabling the creation of more nuanced and enduring jasmine perfumes.

Jasmine perfumes were featured prominently in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias of the time, reflecting their widespread popularity and significance. The formulas described in these texts were often complex blends designed to mimic the rich, multifaceted aroma of jasmine, often combining various natural and synthetic ingredients to achieve a balanced and captivating scent profile. This blend of tradition and innovation underscored the ongoing evolution of fragrance craftsmanship in the 19th century, with Jasmin by Guerlain standing as a testament to the era's dedication to the art of perfumery.

Guerlain's Jasmin perfume is described as a soft floral fragrance for women with a dominant sweet jasmine note.The general recipe included the following ingredients:

• Top notes: orange blossom, jasmine, lemon, bergamot
• Middle notes: sambac jasmine, Tonkin musk, ylang ylang
• Base notes: sambac jasmine, vanilla and musk.

Recently, I was able to obtain a sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the well blended, floral sweetness of Guerlain's Jasmin, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around. 

When first applied to the skin, I am greeted with the sweetness of sambac jasmine absolute, straight from the flower strewn fields of Grasse. The traditional bubblegum note of this species is very noticeable in the perfume which then evolves into a softer mixture of ylang ylang, with its tropical hint of banana, and a trace of orange blossom which has acquired a honeyed effect. I did not perceive the lemon or bergamot notes in this sample, as it being 100 years old, they are now lost to time. A gentle touch of musk and the warmth of vanilla help round out this perfume. The perfume is at first strong and sweet, but dries down to an airy type of fragrance on the skin.

Scent Profile:

Jasmin by Guerlain unfolds as a delicately woven tapestry of floral opulence, each note contributing to its soft, enchanting profile. As you first experience this fragrance, the top notes reveal a bright and inviting symphony. The scent of orange blossom greets you with its honeyed, slightly citrusy aroma, offering a sweet and airy brightness that feels both invigorating and serene. 

Jasmine, the heart of the perfume, immediately unfurls its lush, intoxicating fragrance. Its rich and velvety aroma envelops you, providing a profound sense of floral sweetness that is both exotic and familiar. The lemon adds a crisp, zesty twist, injecting a burst of freshness that balances the floral notes with a hint of tangy brightness. Bergamot further complements this initial blend with its slightly spicy, citrusy fragrance, creating a harmonious opening that is both refreshing and sophisticated.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes emerge, revealing deeper layers of complexity. Sambac jasmine intensifies the jasmine note, its opulent, heady scent enveloping you in a warm, sensual embrace. This particular variety of jasmine brings a richer, more velvety texture to the fragrance, enhancing its overall depth. 

Tonkin musk introduces a soft, animalic warmth, providing a subtle yet potent undercurrent that grounds the floral notes and adds a hint of sensuality. Ylang ylang adds an exotic, slightly creamy dimension to the composition, its rich and floral aroma blending seamlessly with the jasmine to create a beautifully balanced heart.

In the base notes, the fragrance settles into a comforting and enduring finish. The sambac jasmine continues to shine, reinforcing its presence with a lingering, sweet warmth that persists throughout the wear. Vanilla introduces a smooth, creamy sweetness that envelops the floral notes in a velvety embrace, adding a touch of indulgent warmth. 

Finally, musk weaves through the composition with its soft, sensual undertones, enhancing the overall depth and ensuring that the fragrance leaves a lasting, elegant impression. Together, these base notes create a harmonious conclusion that is both comforting and captivating, making Jasmin a timeless fragrance that celebrates the beauty and complexity of jasmine in a truly unforgettable way.

Bottles:

Presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat design # 678, in the Amphore flacon (parfum) during the 1950s and in the beautiful frosted glass Lalique Bouquet de Faunes flacon (parfum) in the 1920s. Also sold in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) in the 1940s and Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) from the 1920s-1950s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Jacques Guerlain's 1922 recreation of Jasmin reflects a careful melding of tradition and innovation, capturing the essence of the original fragrance while incorporating contemporary advancements in perfumery. This reimagining preserved the core identity of Jasmin—its lush, floral heart of jasmine—but was likely refined to appeal to the evolving tastes of the early 20th century. The 1922 version would have maintained the signature sweet jasmine note, but with adjustments to accommodate the new synthetic ingredients and modern scent technologies emerging during that period.

By 1953, Jasmin remained a cherished offering in Guerlain's lineup, testament to its enduring appeal and the brand's commitment to its legacy. The continued presence of Jasmin on the market at this time indicates that it had successfully adapted to changing preferences while retaining its classic charm. However, as with many fragrances, the exact date of its discontinuation remains uncertain, leaving a gap in the perfume's historical timeline. Its disappearance from the market marks the end of an era for a scent that had, for over a century, been synonymous with elegance and the timeless allure of jasmine.