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Sunday, November 26, 2017

Aux Bon Vieux Temps c1890

Au Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain: launched in 1890. Created by Jacques Guerlain. The name means "The Good Old Times."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a unisex, deep oriental chypre with violet, rose, (potpourri jar scents) and amber notes. It was described as "musky".


  • Top notes: bergamot
  • Middle notes: violet, rose
  • Base notes: amber, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, musk


Country Life, 1902:
"In the foyer there was a whiff of Guerlain's Le Bon Vieux Temps that recalled a summer breeze laden with the hearts of flowers. It is I hear the latest pleasure of Madame la Mode."
Rapports, 1902:
"The list would be too long of all specialties of the Guerlain house dating from 1788. We only mention among the many products that contained his living room the old creations: Excellence, Héliotrope Blanc, Impérial russe, Pré d'automne, Eau de Cologne Impériale, la Poudre de Cypris, la pâte royale, and among all the recent creations La Gavotte, summer scent, very fresh, Jardin de Mon Curé, Le Bon Vieux Temps, l'eau de Cologne hégémonienne, l'Extrait de pot pourri aux plantes marines, Voilà pourquoi j'aimais Rosine.  All these fragrances were exposed on consoles and pedestal tables and presented for some naked to show the intrinsic value of the products. Guerlain manufactures exclusively luxury perfumery. 
Awards to previous exhibitions: 
  • medal, London 1862 
  • medal, Paris 1867 
  • hors concours, Jury Member, Paris 1878 
  • hors concours, Jury member, Antwerp 1885 
  • hors concours, Jury Member, Paris 1889 
  • Grand Prize, Brussels, 1897."
La Semaine de l'Hippique, 1903, 1903:
'What a delicious fragrance', my dear, said I, because she smelled of that delightful perfume Bon Vieux Temps that I recognized immediately, as I use it myself.
'Yes, yes, my own special mixture', she answered condescendingly......
"My congratulations on your taste, dear friend, it is quite simply perfect. Do you like mine?" I added, shaking out my lace handkerchief, also perfumed with Bon Vieux Temps.
"My goodness, yes" she murmured, blushing, caught in her own trap.
"And I can't even hide from you where I bought it because you know I only wear Guerlain." 



La Ilustración española y americana, 1903:

"Guerlain ha realizado en su Bon Vieux Temps un difícil problema que consiste en darnos un perfume acentuado según el gusto del día atenuando su fuerza penetrante bajó la suavidad amable del olor. Estas son las cualidades raras que han consagrado la boga del Bon Vieux Temps y le han hecho adoptar por la aristocracia parisiense."
"Guerlain has done in his Bon Vieux Temps, a difficult problem which consists in giving us a pointed perfume according to the taste of the day, reducing their penetrating power down to the gentle softness of smell. These are rare qualities which have enshrined the vogue of the Bon Vieux Temps and made it adopted by the Parisian aristocracy."
The Atlantic, 1917:
"Here is another perfume with the charming name Le Bon Vieux Temps. Are there more words needed to create for you great grandmother's time with its potpourri jars and its hoopskirts its little elegancies and its faded sweetnesses?"

Stage, 1937:
"With his most respectful compliments Guerlain calls the attention of his fashionable customers to the following list of his productions Parfums pour le Vaporisateur : Eau de Cologne Hégémonienne, Quand vient l'été, Eau de Cologne,  Eau de Toilette Gardénia. ... Après l'Ondée, Sillage, Bon Vieux Temps, Jicky, Chypre de Paris, Tsao-Ko.. Sapoceti, savon pour la toilette. Crème de fraises."

Bottles:


Housed in the Empire flacon (parfum), the Louis XVI flacon (parfum), and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).



Fate of the Fragrance:


Relaunched in 1901 and renamed Le Bon Vieux Temps, and still sold in 1946. Discontinued.




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