Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Guerlain in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. All trademarks belong to their respective owners. The main objective of this website is to chronicle the 200+ year old history of the Guerlain fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years. Let this site be your source for information on antique and vintage Guerlain perfumes. Another goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Guerlain company how much we miss many of the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances! I invite you to leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or on what occasion, what it smelled like to you, how it made you feel, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Guerlain brand might see it. If you have any questions, please send all images of your bottle and pertinent information directly to me at cleopatrasboudoir@gmail.com. I will try to assist you the best I can.

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Sunday, February 10, 2013

Extrait Nice, Dear c1883

Extrait Nice, Dear: launched in 1883 or 1893. This perfume was created to commemorate Great Britain and was named in honour of the goddess Nike (Nice).

In Greek mythology, Nike, was a goddess who personified victory, also known as the Winged Goddess of Victory. The Roman equivalent was Victoria.

Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain c1873

Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain was launched in 1873. Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. Composed especially for Elise Hensler, countess d’Edla, Queen of Portugal, based on the old castle of Cintra (Sintra), a favorite residence of the Portuguese Royal family, also known as the Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros).

Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain: launched in 1873. Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The perfume was created for Elise, Countess of Edla (born Elise Friedericke Hensler; 22 May 1836 – 21 May 1929), a Swiss-born American actress and singer, and the morganatic second wife of the former King Ferdinand II of Portugal.

Bouquet de Marie Christine by Guerlain c1885

Bouquet de Marie Christine, launched around 1885, is a fragrance steeped in regal significance and historical context. The name, "Bouquet de Marie Christine," translates from French to "Bouquet of Marie Christine." This title directly references Maria Cristina of Austria, who was not only a prominent figure in European royalty but also a symbol of transitional power in Spain. As Queen Consort alongside her husband, Alfonso XII, and later as Queen Regent during the interregnum following his death in 1885, Maria Cristina played a crucial role in Spanish history.

The choice of name evokes a rich tapestry of images and emotions. "Bouquet" suggests a carefully curated arrangement of flowers, indicative of sophistication and elegance. The addition of "Marie Christine" personalizes this bouquet, linking it to a specific individual whose life and influence marked a significant historical moment. The fragrance thus carries with it the weight of royal grandeur and personal homage.

In terms of scent, "Bouquet de Marie Christine" would be interpreted as a composition reflecting the refined and noble qualities associated with the Queen. The fragrance likely captures the essence of her regal presence through a complex, opulent blend of floral notes, possibly accompanied by richer, more luxurious base elements. This combination would evoke the sophisticated and cultivated nature of Maria Cristina, while also paying tribute to her elevated status.

Women of the period, who were often closely attuned to the latest trends and influences from the court, would have seen "Bouquet de Marie Christine" as a symbol of high society and refined taste. The perfume would be more than just a scent; it would be an embodiment of the elegance and authority of a queen regent, offering them a way to connect with the regal allure of Maria Cristina.

The time during which this perfume was launched was marked by significant political and social shifts. Maria Cristina’s regency, a transitional period between her husband's death and the birth of her son Alfonso XIII, was a time of both uncertainty and anticipation for Spain. Guerlain's creation of a perfume in her honor was not only a tribute to her personal dignity and grace but also a continuation of the brand's tradition of crafting fragrances for the royal and elite circles of Europe. This period saw Guerlain consolidating its reputation for bespoke creations for heads of state and nobility, solidifying its place as a purveyor of luxury and refinement.



Jicky c1889

Jicky by Guerlain: originally created in 1889. It is a classical fragrance and, despite the age, it is timeless and still very modern.

According to the legend, the perfume was named after a girl Aimé Guerlain was in love with when he was a student in England, and then it was said that the perfume was named after his uncle Jacques Guerlain’s nickname – Jicky.

It is more likely, though, that Aimé, a gay man, was hiding his love for someone else named Jacques and someone at Guerlain created the story of a long lost female love to hide his sexuality and to protect the reputation of Guerlain during the late 1800s, which is not unreasonable given the time period.

In 1911, Gabriel Guerlain said "the name Jicky (diminutive of Jack) was the familiar name of one of my many sons when he was a child. As we found it original we gave it to one of our scents."





With Love c2003

With Love by Guerlain: launched in 2003. Created by Sylvaine Delacourte and Christine Nagel.





Vol de Nuit Evasion c2007

Vol de Nuit Evasion: created by Mathilde Laurent.in 2007 in cooperation with Alea, the chain of airport duty free shops, and it can only be purchased at the Alea stores in France and Great Britain, as well as the Guerlain boutiques.


“Vol de Nuit EVASION, a nomadic homage to a classic scent from Guerlain.
A special creation reserved for travel retail, Vol de Nuit Evasion tells ‘the tale of a nocturnal evasion, a few hours of an internal adventure, an airy, olfactory bridge between fiction and reality’. A sweet scent of amber and woods that, like the logo on the midnight-blue packaging, diffuses a soft, warm light in the darkness. Find it at selected airport perfume counters and Guerlain boutiques. A fragrance with a sweet opening of rose and peach, evolving towards waves of jasmine and iris. The oriental trail is warmed with woods, amber and vanilla.”
 

Voila Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain c1900

Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain was first created in 1863 and then re-released in a special presentation for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. The name, which translates to "This is Why I Loved Rosine," carries a deeply emotional and personal resonance, chosen to honor Sarah Bernhardt, the celebrated actress whose birth name was Henriette-Rosine Bernard. As a close friend of the Guerlain family and a muse to Jacques Guerlain, Bernhardt was a woman of extraordinary talent, charm, and allure—qualities that the perfume’s name and composition sought to capture.

The phrase "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" evokes a sense of nostalgia, affection, and admiration. It tells the story of a great love or deep fondness, perhaps for a person, memory, or fleeting moment of beauty. The title invites the wearer to step into a narrative of romantic devotion, which could easily have mirrored Bernhardt’s dramatic life and the adoration she received from her audiences. The scent itself, then, becomes a tribute not only to her but to anyone who evokes a similar admiration, capturing the mystery and allure of the muse figure.

Interpreted in scent, "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" would likely translate to a fragrance that is at once delicate and bold, capturing the dual nature of Bernhardt’s persona—soft in her beauty but powerful in her presence. Floral elements, jasmine, rose and violet, evoke the femininity and elegance of the era, while deeper, warmer notes like cinnamon, leather and vanilla lend a more sensuous, timeless quality. The fragrance would feel like an homage to artistry and the stage, with a complex blend of ingredients designed to linger and captivate, much like Bernhardt herself.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a perfume like Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine would have resonated with both men and women in different ways. For women, the fragrance could symbolize an aspiration toward the sophistication and charisma embodied by Bernhardt, a celebrated woman who pushed the boundaries of her time. For men, the perfume might have represented a sense of admiration for a woman of grace and strength, while also carrying a sense of personal refinement and luxury. The perfume’s name and association with Bernhardt would have made it a conversation piece, evoking the cultural allure of the theater and the arts.

The time period in which this perfume was launched, the mid-19th century, was a transformative era in France. The country was at the height of its artistic and cultural influence, with figures like Sarah Bernhardt rising to international fame. The era was defined by opulence, innovation, and an appreciation for the arts, as seen in the 1900 Universal Exhibition, where Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine was presented in a newly designed bottle. Guerlain’s choice to re-release the perfume at such a significant global event reflected the brand’s deep connection to the artistic world and its role in shaping the cultural landscape of the time.

In an era where names like Bernhardt commanded admiration across Europe, the perfume would have served as a fragrant tribute to the ideals of creativity, beauty, and love. Its presentation at the 1900 Exhibition further elevated its status, making it not just a fragrance but a symbol of France’s cultural prominence and the spirit of the Belle Époque.


Arome Synthetique Peau D'Espagne by Guerlain c1883

Arome Synthetique Peau D'Espagne: created in 1883.



Une Rose by Guerlain c1908

Une Rose by Guerlain, launched in 1908 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a fragrance that exemplifies the elegance and simplicity of its name. The title "Une Rose" translates directly from French to "A Rose" in English, pronounced [ewn rohz]. This straightforward and evocative name immediately conjures the image of a single, exquisite bloom—a quintessential symbol of beauty, romance, and sophistication.

The choice of the name "Une Rose" reflects Guerlain’s intention to capture the essence of this beloved flower in its purest form. In the early 20th century, the rose was not only a staple in perfumery but also a symbol of refined luxury and timeless grace. By naming the fragrance simply "Une Rose," Guerlain conveyed a sense of singularity and focus, suggesting that the perfume was crafted to celebrate the rose in its most pristine and unadulterated state. The term evokes an image of a freshly picked rose, its petals velvety and dewy, and it brings to mind a sense of romanticism and delicate elegance.

At the time of its release, Une Rose was classified as a rose soliflore, meaning it centered on the rose as the primary note, showcasing it in all its facets. For women of the period, this would have represented an intimate and personal fragrance experience, highlighting the classic allure of the rose—a flower long associated with femininity and grace. The fragrance would have been perceived as a luxurious and refined choice, aligning with the era's penchant for sophisticated and elegant scents.

In the early 1900s, the sourcing of roses for perfumery was a meticulous process. The most coveted rose varieties, such as the Bulgarian Rosa damascena or the Turkish rose, were prized for their rich and complex scents. These roses were often harvested by hand during the early morning hours to ensure their delicate aroma was preserved. The careful extraction and distillation methods used to capture the essence of these roses reflected the high regard in which they were held in the world of fragrance.

Une Rose thus stands as a testament to both Guerlain’s craftsmanship and the timeless appeal of one of perfumery’s most cherished ingredients. Its launch during this period underscores the enduring significance of the rose in creating perfumes that resonate with both elegance and simplicity.