Une Rose by Guerlain c1908

Une Rose by Guerlain, launched in 1908 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a fragrance that exemplifies the elegance and simplicity of its name. The title "Une Rose" translates directly from French to "A Rose" in English, pronounced [ewn rohz]. This straightforward and evocative name immediately conjures the image of a single, exquisite bloom—a quintessential symbol of beauty, romance, and sophistication.

The choice of the name "Une Rose" reflects Guerlain’s intention to capture the essence of this beloved flower in its purest form. In the early 20th century, the rose was not only a staple in perfumery but also a symbol of refined luxury and timeless grace. By naming the fragrance simply "Une Rose," Guerlain conveyed a sense of singularity and focus, suggesting that the perfume was crafted to celebrate the rose in its most pristine and unadulterated state. The term evokes an image of a freshly picked rose, its petals velvety and dewy, and it brings to mind a sense of romanticism and delicate elegance.

At the time of its release, Une Rose was classified as a rose soliflore, meaning it centered on the rose as the primary note, showcasing it in all its facets. For women of the period, this would have represented an intimate and personal fragrance experience, highlighting the classic allure of the rose—a flower long associated with femininity and grace. The fragrance would have been perceived as a luxurious and refined choice, aligning with the era's penchant for sophisticated and elegant scents.

In the early 1900s, the sourcing of roses for perfumery was a meticulous process. The most coveted rose varieties, such as the Bulgarian Rosa damascena or the Turkish rose, were prized for their rich and complex scents. These roses were often harvested by hand during the early morning hours to ensure their delicate aroma was preserved. The careful extraction and distillation methods used to capture the essence of these roses reflected the high regard in which they were held in the world of fragrance.

Une Rose thus stands as a testament to both Guerlain’s craftsmanship and the timeless appeal of one of perfumery’s most cherished ingredients. Its launch during this period underscores the enduring significance of the rose in creating perfumes that resonate with both elegance and simplicity.

During the 19th century, rose perfumes were a staple in the fragrance world, their popularity reflected in numerous formulas documented in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias. As the market became saturated with variations of rose scents, it was essential for perfumers to differentiate their creations. Guerlain, in naming his rose fragrance "Une Rose," effectively capitalized on the rose’s inherent allure while setting his offering apart from competitors.

The formulation of Une Rose would have originally relied on a blend of natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures to evoke the fresh, vibrant scent of a rose in bloom. In the 19th century, the art of perfumery involved meticulous extraction methods to capture the essence of roses, using techniques that preserved their delicate fragrance. However, as the century progressed and the early 20th century approached, the advent of synthetic aroma compounds began to revolutionize perfume creation. These newly discovered synthetics allowed perfumers to enhance and refine their compositions, adding layers of complexity that natural extracts alone could not achieve.

By the time Une Rose was launched in 1908, the fragrance likely incorporated these advancements. While maintaining the classic rose-centric profile, later iterations of the perfume might have been enhanced with sparkling aldehydes and a green accord. Aldehydes would have added a luminous, effervescent quality to the rose, while a green accord could have introduced a fresh, herbaceous element, rounding out the scent with a modern twist.

The innovation in fragrance formulation not only reflected Guerlain's commitment to evolving with the times but also demonstrated the versatility and enduring appeal of the rose in perfumery. The name "Une Rose" thus embodies both a reverence for the traditional elegance of the rose and an embrace of the evolving landscape of fragrance creation.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was a rose soliflore. The general recipe included the following ingredients:

• Top notes: wild berries, hyacinth, verbena, Bourbon geranium, lilac, cassie, neroli, petitgrain, sweet orange
• Middle notes: Ceylon tea, pepper, cinnamon, rose absolute, clove, carnation, heliotrope, rose oil, violet, jasmine, tuberose
• Base notes: musk, orris, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin, cedar, ambergris, tolu, civet

 

Recently, I was able to obtain a sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the spicy herbs and florals of Guerlain's Une Rose, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around. My first impression is fresh cut green roses and a distinctive note that reminds me of a band-aid, this is indicative of the usage of cresol, specifically, m-cresol, then I can smell a latex rubber odor, probably from the tuberose, which smells faintly sweet.

Scent Profile:

In the fragrance Une Rose, the initial impression is a vivid tableau of nature’s delicate beauty, unfolding in a symphony of fresh, green rose petals interlaced with the crispness of wild berries. The top notes are a vivid tapestry: wild berries burst forth with their vibrant, tangy sweetness, immediately mingling with the zesty freshness of verbena and the aromatic warmth of Bourbon geranium. 

The air is enriched with the delicate essence of lilac and the subtle, powdery notes of cassie, while neroli and petitgrain contribute a bright, citrusy sparkle. Sweet orange rounds out this vibrant introduction with its juicy, sunlit aroma.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals its more complex facets. The middle notes present a rich, nuanced blend that deepens the initial impression. The scent of Ceylon tea infuses the bouquet with a warm, soothing quality, its slightly tannic and earthy tones intermingling with a spicy kick of pepper and cinnamon. 

Rose absolute takes center stage, its opulent, velvety essence providing a lush, full-bodied scent that is complemented by clove’s spicy warmth and carnation’s rich, peppery sweetness. Heliotrope introduces a subtle, almond-like creaminess, while rose oil enhances the rose’s depth with its intense, honeyed aroma. The soft, powdery touch of violet and the rich floral notes of jasmine merge seamlessly with the creamy, faintly sweet latex rubber-like nuance of tuberose, creating an intriguing and multi-dimensional floral core.

The base notes bring a sense of grounding and warmth. Musk adds a sensual, animalic depth, while orris offers a luxurious, velvety texture with its subtle, powdery quality. Oakmoss contributes an earthy, green richness, balanced by the woody, slightly sweet notes of patchouli and sandalwood. 

Benzoin and ambergris lend a warm, resinous sweetness, with tolu adding a balsamic, slightly smoky depth. Cedar introduces a dry, woody nuance, while civet adds a hint of animalistic sensuality, creating a complex and intriguing finish to this multifaceted fragrance.

Une Rose weaves together these diverse notes into a harmonious tapestry, capturing the essence of a lush, blooming rose garden with a sophisticated, modern twist.

Bottles:

Presented in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Capsule flacon, the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), and the Amphore facon (parfum).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Une Rose by Guerlain, a celebrated rose soliflore fragrance, met its end at some point in time, though the precise date of its discontinuation remains elusive. Throughout its lifespan, Une Rose was a distinguished presence in the world of perfumery, with its elegant and evocative profile making a notable impression on enthusiasts and collectors alike. By the 1960s, the fragrance was still available, a testament to its enduring appeal and the robust legacy of Guerlain’s craftsmanship.

During its time on the market, Une Rose encapsulated the quintessential essence of a rose in full bloom, capturing the intricate beauty of the flower with remarkable precision. The perfume’s composition, rich in layers of floral and spicy notes, offered a complex olfactory experience that celebrated the timeless allure of roses. The fragrance's discontinuation marked the end of an era for a scent that had become synonymous with refined elegance and the art of perfumery.

The discontinuation of Une Rose signifies a shift in perfume trends and consumer preferences over the decades. As new fragrances and olfactory innovations emerged, Une Rose gradually faded from the limelight, its place in the Guerlain portfolio eventually replaced by other creations. Despite this, the perfume’s legacy endures, and its past presence in the 1960s remains a cherished part of its history. Today, Une Rose is remembered fondly by those who experienced its sophisticated charm, its absence a poignant reminder of the ever-evolving landscape of fragrance.