Héliotrope Blanc 000, created in 1870, very popular during 1878-1883. The 000 after the name means that this is a triple-strength floral extract.
Heliotrope is a sweet-scented plant which is called Heliotrope because it follows the course of the sun. After opening it gradually turns from the east to the west and during the night turns again to the east to meet the rising sun. The Ancients recognized this characteristic of the plant and applied it to mythology.
So what does it smell like? It is a soliflore based on the scent of white heliotrope, probably made possible by using heliotropin (piperonal). All types of Heliotrope perfumes were popular during the 19th century. Formulas for these perfumes appeared in several perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias during the period. These formulas were based on mixed blends to suggest the fresh odor of of the heliotrope. Natural extracts, infusions, absolutes and tinctures would have been used early on, but as the 19th century drew to a close, newly discovered synthetics such as heliotropin, coumarin, vanillin, terpineol, musk xylene and benzyl acetate would have been utilized. It may be colored with cochineal. The general recipe included the following ingredients:
Heliotropin was discovered in 1869 by Fittig and Mielk who synthesized it and thus made the 'cherry pie' note of the heliotrope flower, for which it is named, available to perfumers for the first time - it was already in use in fragrances by the early 1880s.
Heliotropine occurs naturally in a range of botanicals including dill, violet flowers, black pepper and others and is used for vanilla or almond accords to bring a balsamic character and also has powdery, floral aspects. Despite having acquired the name heliotropine for its similar scent to that of the heliotrope flower this chemical does not itself appear in the flower scent and so cannot be extracted from those flowers.
Presented in the carre flacon (parfum). Bottle is 9,6 cm (3,8 inch) tall and contents 80 cc
Discontinued, date unknown. Heliotrope Blanc was last sold around 1958, not sure when the 000 part was omitted from the name.
Heliotrope is a sweet-scented plant which is called Heliotrope because it follows the course of the sun. After opening it gradually turns from the east to the west and during the night turns again to the east to meet the rising sun. The Ancients recognized this characteristic of the plant and applied it to mythology.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is a soliflore based on the scent of white heliotrope, probably made possible by using heliotropin (piperonal). All types of Heliotrope perfumes were popular during the 19th century. Formulas for these perfumes appeared in several perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias during the period. These formulas were based on mixed blends to suggest the fresh odor of of the heliotrope. Natural extracts, infusions, absolutes and tinctures would have been used early on, but as the 19th century drew to a close, newly discovered synthetics such as heliotropin, coumarin, vanillin, terpineol, musk xylene and benzyl acetate would have been utilized. It may be colored with cochineal. The general recipe included the following ingredients:
- Top notes: heliotrope, cassie, orange blossom, bitter almond, bergamot, neroli
- Middle notes: heliotrope, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, tuberose
- Base notes: musk, vanilla, Peru balsam, orris, ambergris, styrax, vetiver, tonka bean, civet
Heliotropin possesses a delightful clinging odor of the white heliotrope flower, and mixed with alcohol its 2% solution with coumarin and oil of jasmine forms a fragrant "heliotrope extract.
Heliotropin was discovered in 1869 by Fittig and Mielk who synthesized it and thus made the 'cherry pie' note of the heliotrope flower, for which it is named, available to perfumers for the first time - it was already in use in fragrances by the early 1880s.
Heliotropine occurs naturally in a range of botanicals including dill, violet flowers, black pepper and others and is used for vanilla or almond accords to bring a balsamic character and also has powdery, floral aspects. Despite having acquired the name heliotropine for its similar scent to that of the heliotrope flower this chemical does not itself appear in the flower scent and so cannot be extracted from those flowers.
Bottles:
Presented in the carre flacon (parfum). Bottle is 9,6 cm (3,8 inch) tall and contents 80 cc
"Heliotrope Blanc 000" - (1940-1950) Presented in a cubic box wrapped in sky blue "Marly" paper carton , clear glass decanter bottle pressed molded section and cubic shape, neck carnette, flat square faceted stopper, emblazoned with label. Model published by Pochet et du Courval for Mexico. Top:. 10cm. Photo by Lombrail-Teucquam
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. Heliotrope Blanc was last sold around 1958, not sure when the 000 part was omitted from the name.
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