Plagia by Guerlain c1904

Plagia by Guerlain, launched in 1904, carries a name that intrigues with its complex layers of meaning and historical context. The term "Plagia" translates to "plagiarism" in French, a provocative choice that likely reflects Guerlain's awareness of the growing trend of competitors mimicking their successful creations. By naming the perfume "Plagia," Guerlain might have been making a subtle comment on the imitation of their original fragrances by other perfumers, thus drawing attention to their own innovation and authenticity amidst a sea of replicas.

However, the name "Plagia" could also carry botanical connotations. Guerlain was known for experimenting with various plant extracts, and "Plagia" may be a nod to Plagianthus, a genus of plants known for its aromatic qualities. This dual interpretation of the name could evoke images of both intellectual property and natural beauty, reflecting Guerlain's commitment to both innovation and nature.

In terms of scent, the name "Plagia" might suggest a fragrance that stands out distinctly from its competitors—one that blends the allure of originality with the richness of botanical influences. Women of the early 20th century, a time characterized by a burgeoning interest in sophisticated and novel fragrances, would likely have viewed "Plagia" as a symbol of Guerlain's mastery and creativity. The period was marked by a growing appreciation for unique and high-quality perfumes, and "Plagia" would have appealed to those seeking an exclusive and distinguished scent experience.

The early 1900s were a time of significant change and experimentation in the perfume industry. As new trends emerged and the market became increasingly competitive, Guerlain's choice to name a perfume "Plagia" underscores both their confidence in their own creations and their recognition of the evolving landscape of fragrance innovation.

Plagianthus, derived from the Greek words plaios, meaning "oblique," and anthos, referring to a flower with asymmetrical petals, is a genus within the Malvaceae family. This small group of shrubs, native to southern Australia and New Zealand, includes species such as P. lyallii, which is particularly admired for its ornamental qualities. Introduced to Europe from New Zealand in 1871, P. lyallii thrives as a handsome greenhouse plant, notable for its drooping, axillary white flowers. These blooms, produced in abundance during spring, are renowned for their sweet fragrance, reminiscent of strong vanilla notes. The delicate, aromatic scent of these flowers might have inspired the creation of a perfume designed to capture their essence.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy, woody floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: ambrette, orange blossom, bergamot
• Middle notes: sandalwood, ylang ylang, Tonkin musk, spices and suede
• Base notes: orris, benzoin, tonka bean and vanilla

Scent Profile:

Plagia, a fragrance classified as a spicy, woody floral, unfolds in an intricate olfactory journey that starts with its top notes. Upon first encounter, the air is immediately filled with the delicate, yet potent scent of ambrette. This note, with its subtle sweetness and musky undertones, creates an initial impression of warm, inviting richness. 

It intertwines gracefully with the luminous freshness of orange blossom, whose sweet, floral aroma evokes images of sunlit gardens in full bloom. Adding a vibrant burst of citrus to the mix, bergamot introduces a zesty brightness that enlivens the senses, setting a captivating stage for the fragrance.

As the top notes gently fade, the heart of Plagia reveals itself, where sandalwood takes center stage. Its creamy, woody aroma provides a smooth, grounding base that feels both luxurious and comforting. This is elegantly complemented by the exotic richness of ylang ylang, with its intoxicating floral scent that hints at tropical warmth and opulence. 

The presence of Tonkin musk adds a layer of deep, animalic sensuality, while the spices and suede contribute a subtle yet intriguing complexity, wrapping the wearer in a sophisticated, textured embrace.

The base notes of Plagia bring the fragrance to a memorable close with an exquisite blend of orris, benzoin, tonka bean, and vanilla. Orris offers a velvety, powdery softness that enhances the perfume’s elegant character. 

Benzoin introduces a balsamic sweetness that harmonizes beautifully with the creamy richness of tonka bean, adding a touch of warmth and complexity. Finally, vanilla infuses the composition with its classic, sweetly comforting scent, rounding out the fragrance with a final note of indulgent luxury.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. You can purchase a bottle of Plagia from my good friend Alexandra Star.