So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women dominated with leather and musk notes. The original color of the parfum was tinted green, probably with chlorophyll which was a common perfume tinting dye at the time. Today, you will find that the perfume will have aged into a deep brown color over the years due to the natural oxidization of the ingredients, namely vanilla. If it still retains its green shade, it is most likely a factice (dummy bottle) filled with colored water, so buyer beware.
The Pharmaceutical Era, 1924:
"A new odor, called Bouquet de Faunes is being announced. It seems that M. Guerlain was strolling one morning in the gardens of the Tuilleries and he came upon the famous statue of the faun with flowers grouped about its base. The grace of the faun standing in a bed of flowers and the sweet odors of the blossoms fresh upon the morning air were inspiration enough for this.This extract is sold in beautiful bottles made by the versatile Lalique, each bearing in four places the face of the faun."
The original color of Bouquet de Faunes parfum was a soft green, a hue often achieved through the use of chlorophyll. This natural dye was commonly employed during the early 20th century to tint perfumes, giving them an organic, vibrant quality that echoed the natural origins of many ingredients. The green tint would have complemented the floral and herbal notes within the fragrance, visually evoking the freshness of nature, and offering a sensory suggestion of the botanical elements present in the perfume.
However, over time, the green shade of Bouquet de Faunes would have likely faded as the perfume aged. Natural ingredients like jasmine and vanilla, which are sensitive to oxidation, would cause the liquid to darken to a deep brown color. This change is a natural part of the aging process for vintage perfumes, as exposure to air and light alters their composition. Jasmine, with its rich floral oils, and vanilla, known for its creamy sweetness, are particularly prone to this transformation. The result is not just a shift in color, but often a deepening of the fragrance’s richness, adding to the overall complexity as it matures.
If, however, a vintage bottle of Bouquet de Faunes still retains its original green hue, it’s likely that the bottle is a factice—a dummy bottle used for display purposes, typically filled with colored water instead of actual perfume. These bottles were often created to mimic the original parfum for promotional use in stores. For collectors or buyers of vintage perfumes, this distinction is crucial. The vibrant green shade may look appealing, but it can be a sign that the bottle is not filled with the original fragrance. In these cases, one must be cautious to ensure authenticity, as the market for antique perfumes often contains such display bottles that were never intended for use.
Scent Profile:
As I first encounter Bouquet de Faunes, the initial impression is one of refined warmth, carried by the delicate and citrusy sweetness of neroli. The neroli, extracted from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, lends a fleeting brightness—fresh, slightly green, yet warm like the sun reflecting off orange groves. It awakens the senses gently, with a soft, honeyed nuance, setting the stage for the deeper, richer notes to come.
Following this bright start, the suede note begins to emerge, subtle and soft, evoking the sensation of finely crafted leather gloves, smooth to the touch yet warm and pliable. Unlike harsher leather scents, suede carries an understated elegance—a whispered luxury that wraps around you like a second skin. Its supple, slightly animalistic character hints at something primal, balancing perfectly with the delicate sweetness of jasmine, which weaves through the suede like a vine. The jasmine here is heady yet creamy, with its narcotic floral quality softened by the suede, adding depth to the fragrance.
As the perfume evolves, the middle notes bloom with a symphony of florals and herbal richness. Bouvardia adds a unique floral twist—delicate, fresh, and almost reminiscent of gardenia, but lighter and more playful. This floral heart is anchored by the earthy and powdery elegance of orris, its buttery texture lending a creamy softness to the fragrance. The orris root, derived from the rhizome of the iris plant, introduces a sense of vintage opulence, reminiscent of finely milled powder. There’s an almost tactile quality to it, as if you're brushing your fingers over velvet.
A surprising herbal note of marjoram intertwines with the floral bouquet, bringing a green, slightly peppery warmth that contrasts with the delicate florals. It feels grounding, pulling the scent toward the earth, making it more complex and intriguing. Rose blooms subtly in the background, soft and romantic, adding a familiar floral richness without overpowering the composition.
The rose is well-balanced, tempered by the resinous sweetness of amber, which creates a golden warmth that radiates through the scent like the glow of a setting sun. The carnation, with its spicy clove-like nuance, adds a final touch of floral complexity, giving the heart of the fragrance a vintage charm and a hint of powdery spiciness.
As the base notes settle, the sensual and animalic richness of musk becomes prominent, enveloping the skin in a soft, velvety cloud. It’s warm, intimate, and slightly animalistic, reminding me of skin kissed by the sun. The musk is deepened by the sweet, comforting creaminess of vanilla. Unlike the gourmand sweetness of modern vanilla, this one feels more natural and earthy, as if the beans have been warmed over a low fire.
There’s a sense of coziness and familiarity here, which is further enhanced by tonka bean. The tonka brings a slightly nutty, balsamic quality to the base, with whispers of spiced almond and hay. Together, the vanilla and tonka bean create a soft, lingering sweetness that clings to the skin, leaving an inviting trail long after the perfume has dried down.
Bouquet de Faunes is a journey through texture and warmth—each note flowing seamlessly into the next, from the bright citrusy neroli to the supple suede, and from the rich floral heart to the deep, sensual base. The leather and musk dominate, but they are softened by the intricate floral and sweet elements, making the fragrance both luxurious and intimate. It feels like wearing a beloved fur coat, with its musky warmth and floral softness entwined, perfectly suited to the sophisticated woman of the early 20th century.
Bottles:
The Bouquet de Faunes perfume was presented in the remarkable "Flacon Lalique," a bottle designed by the master glassmaker René Lalique. This bottle, in use from 1925 to 1963, held only two of Guerlain’s iconic extraits: Bouquet de Faunes and Jasmin. It holds a unique place in the history of fragrance as it is the only bottle René Lalique ever produced for Maison Guerlain, a distinction that underscores its importance and absolute rarity.
The bottle itself is an exquisite example of Lalique's mastery, featuring a graceful urn-shaped design that rests on an elegant pedestal foot. Its Neo-Classical aesthetic is highlighted by the intricate mask of a maiden’s face molded on the front of the bottle. This maiden’s face is not merely decorative; it is derived from the architectural motif that adorns the entrance of the famed Guerlain boutique at 68 Avenue Champs-Elysées in Paris. Other masks represent the mythical fauns. Beneath one of the masks, the name "Guerlain Paris" is molded, further emphasizing the exclusivity of this bottle and its close connection to the Guerlain brand. The delicate attention to detail, from the facial expressions on the mask to the proportions of the pedestal, conveys a sense of timeless elegance.
The bottle is topped with a frosted glass, disk-shaped stopper which was as functional as it was beautiful. The stopper featured four pierced holes, allowing the threading of baudruchage cording through them. This cord was then tied tightly around the neck to ensure a secure seal, protecting the valuable contents from leakage and preserving the perfume’s integrity during transport. This artisanal touch not only secured the bottle but also conveyed a sense of ceremony, emphasizing the luxuriousness of the extrait within.
There are two versions of this exceptional bottle. The first, produced from 1925 to 1940, is distinguished by a decorative motif of waves or whirlwinds molded just below the neck, a detail that adds a sense of movement and fluidity to the bottle's design. The second version, produced from 1940 to 1963, has a simpler, flat neck without the whirlwind design, though it retains its elegance and is marked with "Made in France" on the foot, signaling its later production date.
The bottle was available in three sizes, each intended to enhance the perfume's presence on a vanity or in a collector’s cabinet. The smallest size, 80ml (2.7 oz), stands at 9.7cm (3.82 inches) and was produced throughout the entire period from 1925 to 1963. The mid-size version, 125ml (4.2 oz), stands at 11cm (4.33 inches) and was available from 1925 until 1958. Finally, the largest version, 250ml (8.4 oz), is an impressive 13.5cm (5.31 inches) tall and was produced from 1925 until 1960. Each size encapsulates the grandeur of Guerlain and Lalique’s collaborative artistry, making these bottles not just containers but coveted works of art in their own right.
Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945:
Pochet et du Courval created this bottle to house extraits of Shalimar, Jicky, Guerlinade, Fleur de Feu, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Liu, Kadine, Verveine,Vague Souvenir, Champs Elysees, Geranium d'Espagne, Jasmiralda, Lilas, Bouquet de Faunes, Guerlilas, Gavotte, Coque d'Or, Imperial Russe, Fleur Qui Meurt, Gardenia, and others.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Bouquet de Faunes was discontinued in 1963, marking the end of an era for one of Guerlain’s most distinctive and luxurious fragrances. Since its departure, it has become a treasure for collectors, who are particularly drawn to the exquisite Lalique flacons in which the perfume was housed. These bottles, with their elegant urn shape and Neo-Classical mask motifs, are now highly sought after on the market. When they do appear, they often command impressive prices due to both their rarity and their connection to the renowned glassmaker René Lalique.
Despite the demand for this classic scent, Guerlain has never reissued Bouquet de Faunes, leaving enthusiasts and collectors to speculate as to why it has remained in the archives. One plausible reason could be the evolving preferences of customers. As fragrance trends shifted throughout the 20th century, the rich, musky, and leathery notes of Bouquet de Faunes may have seemed out of step with newer, lighter compositions that came into vogue. Additionally, the availability of raw materials used in the original formula, such as natural musk and certain florals, might have posed difficulties, both due to sourcing challenges and changing regulations on ingredients.
Whatever the reason for its continued absence, there is hope among collectors and Guerlain aficionados that one day this masterpiece might make a comeback. A limited edition reissue would not only pay homage to the legacy of Jacques Guerlain and René Lalique but also offer a new generation of fragrance lovers the chance to experience a perfume that encapsulated the elegance and sophistication of its time. The combination of its heritage, luxurious packaging, and timeless composition makes Bouquet de Faunes a fragrance that deserves to be rediscovered.
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