Iris Blanc by Guerlain c1890

Guerlain's Iris was first launched in 1839, and like many early perfumes, it was crafted from natural ingredients, specifically focusing on the elegant and powdery scent of the Florentine orris root. Though discontinued at an unknown date, Iris became part of the foundation of Guerlain's reputation for using exquisite botanical materials. In 1890, a variation was introduced, named Iris Blanc, meaning "White Iris" in French. The choice of this name evokes a refined and pure vision of the iris flower, suggesting both the noble beauty of the plant and the prestige associated with its scent.

The phrase Iris Blanc would have conjured images of pristine, ethereal beauty. "Iris" is rooted in Greek mythology, symbolizing the rainbow and acting as a bridge between heaven and earth, while "Blanc" represents purity, light, and innocence in French. The imagery suggests a delicate fragrance that conveys elegance, refinement, and a sense of purity. Women of the era would likely have associated Iris Blanc with sophistication, grace, and exclusivity, elevating it as a desirable luxury item among the fashionable elite. The idea of a "white" fragrance also evoked freshness and clarity, hinting at a softer and more delicate interpretation of the traditional Iris perfume.

The scent of Iris Blanc would likely have been interpreted as a powdery, floral bouquet, tempered by soft, woody undertones from the orris root. The fragrance might have expressed a lightness and subtlety, reflecting the sensibilities of late 19th-century women, who were drawn to refined, understated scents that complemented their elegant attire and mannerisms. During this time, perfumes were closely tied to the growing trend of personal grooming and hygiene, with more women seeking fragrances that signified sophistication and social standing.

The late 19th century was a period of increasing urbanization, cultural flourishing, and advances in the arts, with Paris at the heart of European style and taste. Iris Blanc, launched in 1890, would have been a reflection of the era’s fascination with delicate, yet luxurious products. Women would have been captivated by its imagery of the rare and prized white iris, perhaps viewing it as a symbol of feminine purity and grace during a time when perfume was becoming a personal and social statement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women based on white Florentine irises.

• Top notes: aldehydes, orris, orange blossom, bergamot
• Middle note: orris, vanilla, musk and civet
• Base notes: orris, vanilla, and sweet acacia

Scent Profile:

As you first experience Iris Blanc, the opening notes are immediately captivating. The fragrance greets you with a soft burst of aldehydes, their effervescent quality creating an airy, almost sparkling sensation. The aldehydes give a fleeting brightness, like the crispness of freshly laundered linens on a warm day. This lightness is soon joined by the creamy warmth of bergamot, adding a citrusy, slightly tangy freshness that balances the initial sharpness.

 Delicate orange blossom unfurls, lending a sweet, floral touch that feels both tender and innocent, yet laced with an underlying sensuality. Each inhalation reveals the harmony between the notes, offering an impression of grace and purity, as if walking through a garden bathed in soft, golden light.

As the fragrance develops, the heart note reveals the star of the composition: orris. The scent of the orris root, derived from the rhizomes of white Florentine irises, is powdery and rich, exuding an earthy, almost buttery texture that envelops you in a soft, velvety embrace. It’s this powdery quality that gives Iris Blanc its signature air of sophistication and femininity. 

As the orris takes center stage, it is sweetened by the warmth of vanilla, which adds a creamy, comforting depth to the perfume, blending seamlessly with the gentle musk and the faint, animalic hint of civet. The musk lends a clean, skin-like warmth, while the civet brings a subtle sensual undertone, making the heart of the fragrance feel intimate and inviting.

Finally, as Iris Blanc dries down, the base notes linger gracefully. Orris continues to weave through the fragrance, its powdery floral nature soft and persistent. The sweet, velvety richness of vanilla deepens, enhancing the perfume's warmth and sweetness, while the scent of sweet acacia gently emerges. 

The acacia brings a honeyed floral note, reminiscent of spring blossoms warmed by the sun, adding a final touch of sweetness and subtle complexity. Together, these base notes leave an impression of softness, comfort, and elegance, as if you’re wrapped in a fine, powdered shawl of the most luxurious fabrics.

The entire composition of Iris Blanc unfolds with a delicacy that feels timeless and refined. It evokes images of delicate white irises swaying in a sunlit breeze, while its subtle yet complex layers give a sense of grace, purity, and intimate elegance. It’s a scent that invites you to lean closer, to experience its beauty fully, as each note unfolds with quiet sophistication.

Bottles:

It was presented in the carre flacon by Pochet et du Courval.

photo by drouot

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.