Jacinthe by Guerlain c1833

Jacinthe by Guerlain, launched in 1833, carries with it a name rich in historical and botanical significance. The word “Jacinthe” is French for “hyacinth,” derived from the Greek word “Hyakinthos.” In Greek mythology, Hyakinthos was a youth loved by the god Apollo, whose death was mourned by the transformation of his blood into a flower. This classical association imbues the name with a sense of timeless beauty and sorrowful romance.

In the 19th century, the hyacinth flower was celebrated for its vibrant colors and intoxicating fragrance. Guerlain’s choice of “Jacinthe” for their perfume evokes images of lush, blooming gardens bursting with the rich, heady scent of these flowers. The name conjures emotions of elegance and refinement, suggesting a fragrance that is both opulent and sophisticated. It resonates with the delicate, yet powerful presence of the hyacinth, known for its striking beauty and strong, sweet aroma.

Interpreted through scent, “Jacinthe” would likely offer a lush floral experience, capturing the essence of hyacinth’s heady, sweet fragrance. This would be complemented by the subtle, green undertones that characterize the flower, providing a fresh yet complex olfactory experience.

During the early 19th century, the fragrance market was dominated by floral and aromatic scents. Jacinthe would have stood out for its emphasis on a singular, distinctive floral note. The period was marked by a growing interest in botanical perfumes, and while many perfumeries of the time included hyacinth in their offerings, Guerlain’s Jacinthe would have been distinguished by its quality and refinement. The fragrance reflects a broader trend towards luxurious, well-crafted perfumes that emphasized both natural beauty and intricate composition.

Guerlain’s Jacinthe would have appealed to women of the era who valued sophistication and exclusivity in their personal fragrances. It would have been seen as a symbol of refinement and grace, aligning with the 19th-century trend of showcasing one’s social status through carefully selected and luxurious scents.

Revue Illustree,1891:

"This is a great perfume for the handkerchief next species of violets, lilac, mimosa, the May flowers and roses, extracts of jasmine, hyacinth, heliotrope, lavender, fresh scents and invigorating, Guerlain ..."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. The general recipe included the following ingredients:

• Top notes: bergamot, hyacinth, orange blossom
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, rose, heliotrope, clove, tuberose, jasmine
• Base notes: Tonkin musk, orris, ambergris

Jacinthe is a soliflore fragrance centered around the hyacinth, a flower celebrated for its distinctive and captivating scent. During the 19th century, hyacinth, known as "Jacinthe" in French-speaking regions, was a beloved and sought-after fragrance. This single-flower composition captures the essence of the hyacinth with a focus on its rich, sweet, and slightly green aroma, making it a standout in the era’s diverse perfume landscape.

The popularity of hyacinth during the 19th century is well-documented in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias from the period. These sources detail various formulas designed to replicate the hyacinth's scent. Early formulations of hyacinth perfume often relied on natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures. These components were meticulously blended to mimic the flower’s complex fragrance profile. The use of natural ingredients provided an authentic representation of hyacinth, reflecting its full-bodied, floral sweetness.

As the 19th century progressed, advancements in chemistry led to the development of synthetic compounds that transformed perfumery. By the latter part of the century, substances like heliotropin—synthetic molecules designed to emulate the scent of certain flowers—began to be incorporated into hyacinth perfumes. These new ingredients allowed for a more precise and consistent reproduction of the hyacinth's aroma, enhancing the overall quality and longevity of the fragrance.

In essence, Jacinthe by Guerlain represents both the traditional artistry of early perfumery and the innovative spirit of the late 19th century. It captures the timeless beauty of the hyacinth while reflecting the evolving techniques and ingredients of its time. This soliflore perfume, with its focus on the hyacinth, stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of floral fragrances and the art of capturing nature’s essence in a bottle.

Scent Profile:

Jacinthe, with its delicate floral composition, offers a rich tapestry of scents that unfold beautifully with each whiff, transporting you to a garden in full bloom. At the top, the fragrance opens with the fresh, citrusy sparkle of bergamot. Its bright and tangy aroma is immediately uplifting, like a burst of sunshine on a crisp morning. Alongside this, the scent of hyacinth takes center stage. 

The hyacinth’s presence is unmistakable—sweet and slightly green, with a lush, intoxicating floral quality that fills the air with an aura of elegance and serenity. The orange blossom adds a touch of warmth and a subtle hint of fruitiness, rounding out the top notes with a creamy, honeyed sweetness.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a bouquet of richly layered middle notes. Ylang ylang contributes a lush, tropical sweetness, its exotic and creamy floral aroma enveloping you like a soft, fragrant veil. Rose, ever the classic, brings a romantic and velvety depth, its rich, blooming essence adding a touch of timeless sophistication. 

Heliotrope introduces a soft, powdery nuance, reminiscent of sweet vanilla and a gentle, almond-like scent that adds a comforting, powdery quality to the heart. Clove provides a spicy kick, its warm and slightly woody fragrance offering a contrasting spice that enhances the floral richness. Tuberose and jasmine infuse the heart with their opulent, heady florals, creating a deeply sensual and luxurious aroma that lingers with an air of mystery and allure.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a warm and sophisticated conclusion. Tonkin musk contributes a deep, sensual warmth, its animalic and slightly sweet characteristics adding a profound, lingering base. Orris, with its refined, powdery elegance, enhances the perfume’s sophistication with its subtle, buttery, and smooth aroma. 

Ambergris adds an intriguing, marine quality with its complex, slightly salty sweetness, providing depth and a hint of the exotic. Together, these base notes create a lasting, enveloping finish that grounds the fragrance in a luxurious, warm embrace, leaving a memorable and enchanting trail.

 

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon (parfum).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Jacinthe, a floral fragrance by Guerlain, was first introduced in 1833 and captured the essence of its era with its delicate and refined composition. Despite its initial popularity, it was eventually discontinued, with the exact date remaining unknown. However, its legacy persisted well into the late 19th century, as it was still available in 1891, continuing to charm and captivate its audience with its sophisticated scent profile.

In 1922, Jacinthe experienced a revival, reflecting a renewed interest in classic fragrances and possibly an adaptation to align with contemporary trends. During this relaunch, it is likely that the perfume was reformulated using modern ingredients, incorporating advancements in fragrance technology and new synthetic compounds that had emerged since its original release. This revitalized version of Jacinthe sought to blend the cherished qualities of its past with the innovations of the early 20th century, ensuring that its timeless appeal could be appreciated by a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts.