Parfum des Champs Elysees by Guerlain c1904 (Original)

Parfum des Champs-Elysees, launched in 1904 by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name rich with meaning and prestige. "Parfum des Champs-Elysees" translates from French as "Perfume of the Champs-Elysees," referring to the iconic avenue in Paris. The Champs-Elysees has long been a symbol of French elegance and grandeur, a place where high society, opulent boutiques, and sophisticated culture intersect. The name evokes the splendor and refinement associated with this famed boulevard, positioning the perfume as a luxurious and quintessentially Parisian experience.

The name itself stirs images of a leisurely promenade along the tree-lined avenue, where the blend of nature and urban sophistication is tangible. In scent, "Parfum des Champs-Elysees" would likely embody the vibrant yet serene atmosphere of this iconic location. Its green floral woody chypre classification suggests a sophisticated composition, with fresh, verdant top notes and a floral heart, balanced by the grounding, earthy base typical of chypre fragrances. The scent would evoke a walk through a lush garden, where green leaves, delicate flowers, and the warm scent of wood meld seamlessly with the crisp Parisian air.

For women in 1904, the name "Parfum des Champs-Elysees" would have resonated as a representation of cosmopolitan sophistication and Parisian allure. During this era, the Champs-Elysees was already a symbol of modernity and high fashion. Wearing a perfume with this name would have connected a woman to the glamour and prestige of Paris, particularly for those who aspired to the elegance of Parisian life, even from afar. The fragrance would serve as an olfactory escape, transporting the wearer to this world of beauty, refinement, and status.

The early 20th century was a period of immense change and cultural dynamism. The Belle Époque, a time marked by peace and prosperity in France, saw advances in art, fashion, and technology. Paris was the heart of these developments, and the Champs-Elysees was a stage for the emerging modern world. The launch of Parfum des Champs-Elysees reflected the optimism and elegance of the time, encapsulating both the old-world charm of Paris and the new, exciting prospects of the 20th century.

By 1914, ten years after launching this fragrance, Maison Guerlain cemented its connection to the Champs-Elysees by moving their flagship store to 68 Avenue des Champs-Elysees. This move not only aligned Guerlain with one of the most prestigious addresses in the world but also solidified their brand’s association with luxury, artistry, and Parisian elegance.

In 1915, the price of Parfum des Champs-Elysees at $75 was exceptionally high, signaling its status as a luxury item. During this period, $75 was a considerable amount of money, far out of reach for the average consumer. To put it into perspective, what cost $75 in 1915 would be the equivalent of $2,337.59 in 2024, as calculated by inflation rates. This illustrates just how extravagant the perfume was, a symbol of opulence and exclusivity.

At a time when the average American household earned only a fraction of that sum in a month, the purchase of such an expensive fragrance would have been reserved for the elite or those who aspired to luxury. The price positioned Parfum des Champs-Elysees as a statement piece, more than just a scent—it was a reflection of one’s social standing, much like jewelry or haute couture fashion. A woman wearing this perfume in 1915 would have been making a bold statement of wealth, refinement, and access to the finest things in life.

The cost of $75 in 1915 also speaks to the craftsmanship and quality that went into creating the perfume. At a time when mass production was becoming more common, luxury items like Guerlain’s perfumes were still made with painstaking attention to detail, using the finest natural ingredients and complex formulations. The high price would have reflected the rarity and exclusivity of these ingredients, as well as the skill required to blend them into a fragrance that could stand the test of time.

Moreover, the year 1915 was significant globally, as it fell during the First World War, when many industries faced shortages and economic difficulties. For Guerlain to offer a product at such a high price during this turbulent time demonstrates the enduring demand for luxury goods among the affluent, even during crises. For those who could afford it, purchasing Parfum des Champs-Elysees during such a period would have been an assertion of stability, power, and unshakable wealth.

In today’s terms, spending over $2,000 on a single bottle of perfume would still be seen as an extravagant purchase, reserved for collectors or individuals seeking the epitome of luxury. However, in 1915, when everyday goods were significantly less expensive, a $75 perfume was more than just a fragrance—it was a rarefied treasure.

Original 1904 Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral woody chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, violet, lavender, hesperidic notes
• Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, rose, violet, orris, sandalwood, patchouli, clove, oakmoss, civet
• Base notes:  musk, tuberose, violet

Scent Profile:

As I lift the stopper from the crystal turtle-shaped bottle of Parfum des Champs-Elysees, the initial burst of fragrance is bright and fresh, as if stepping into a sunlit garden. The top notes begin with the delicate, honeyed sweetness of neroli, blending citrus and floral nuances that feel both radiant and soft. There’s a powdery whisper of violet, light and ephemeral, balancing the sharper citrus with a velvety, nostalgic charm. 

Alongside this comes the herbal, slightly camphorous scent of lavender, calming and crisp, adding a hint of serenity to the vibrant opening. The hesperidic notes, a chorus of zesty citrus oils, further invigorate the air, sharp and sparkling, bringing an effervescent freshness that immediately uplifts.

As the fragrance begins to settle, the middle notes bloom, revealing a floral heart rich in complexity. Jasmine unfolds, warm and sensual, exuding a creamy, indolic sweetness that feels almost intoxicating. It dances with the bright, white floral of orange blossom, which carries a deeper, more intoxicating quality, making the scent feel heady yet refined. 

Rose adds an element of timeless romance, both velvety and lush, its petals unfolding slowly into the bouquet. Violet, ever-present, deepens in this phase, its sweet powderiness now more rooted, lending a soft elegance to the florals.

The fragrance continues to develop as orris emerges, earthy and slightly sweet, offering a cool, root-like powderiness that contrasts the rich florals, adding a sense of luxury and sophistication. Then, there's sandalwood, creamy and smooth, grounding the composition with its warm, woody balm. 

Patchouli brings an earthy, slightly smoky depth, with a resinous quality that speaks of forest floors and ancient trees, while the spicy warmth of clove adds a layer of subtle intrigue. Oakmoss provides the chypre structure, dry and green, evoking the scent of moss-covered stones and damp woodlands, blending beautifully with a touch of civet, which lends an animalic warmth, giving the fragrance a sensual undercurrent.

Finally, the base notes deepen, and the perfume takes on a rich, intimate character. Musk anchors the composition, soft and warm, like the touch of skin, adding a velvety warmth that lingers close. The lush, intoxicating scent of tuberose weaves through, creamy and narcotic, heightening the overall floral intensity while retaining an air of sophistication. 

And once again, violet returns in the drydown, a constant thread throughout the fragrance, its powdery sweetness now fully intertwined with the musk and tuberose, leaving a lingering sense of elegance and nostalgia. The blend is both timeless and complex, evoking a journey through a verdant garden that shifts from dawn to dusk, always alluring, always evolving.

Bottles:

Bottle created by Baccarat ( flacon design # 284) to hold extraits of Le Parfum des Champs Elysees, other bottles made by Pochet et du Courval. Created to celebrate the opening of the new Guerlain boutique at 68, Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris, France which was not complete until 1914. The turtle shape, created by Charles Mewes, reflected the irony of the slowness of the construction work on the new shop.

Baccarat bottles:

• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 11cm/4.33" (changed to 60ml - 10.2cm/4.02" in 1995 as a limited edition) 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 12.5cm/4.92" 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 15.5cm/6.1" 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 19.5cm/7.68" 
• 1 liter/1000ml - 24.5cm/9.65" 
• Originally, the legs were frosted glass 

Pochet et du Courval bottles:

• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" 

Also sold in the Borne flacon (parfum), the Guerre flacon (parfum), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Montre flacon (eau de cologne), the Amphore flacon (parfum), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) and possibly others.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Still being sold in 1938. Discontinued date unknown.

Relaunched in 1995, for a limited edition of only 1300, in a 60ml replica of the Baccarat turtle flacon, housed in a rectangular box. Discontinued.

Reformulated 1995 & 2008 Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was described as a woody floral chypre.

• Top notes:  bergamot, violet, lavender
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, tuberose
• Base notes: orris, clove, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, civet, musk

 Again reissued in 2008, in a limited edition of only 27 copies, housed in a 60ml replica of the 1914 Baccarat Turtle flacon, in an oval shaped red leather presentation case, engraved on one side with the Guerlain logo, retailing for $13,807 each. H: 20 cm

1996 Champs-Elysees:

The perfume was completely reformulated by Jacques Guerlain and Jean-Paul Guerlain, and relaunched in 1996. So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.  It bears no resemblance to the original Parfum des Champs-Elysees.

• Top notes: aldehydes, melon, blackcurrant, almond, violet, peach, anise
• Middle notes: mimosa, rose, peony, lilac, hibiscus, lily of the valley, almond blossom
• Base notes: sandalwood, benzoin, vanilla, cedar, almond tree

I tested a vintage 1990s sample and it started off with sharp aldehydes and citrus, then the jasmine, mimosa and rose became more prominent..