Jasmiralda by Guerlain c1912

Jasmiralda by Guerlain, launched in 1912 and created by Jacques Guerlain, was inspired by the character Esmeralda from Victor Hugo’s famous novel, Notre Dame de Paris (often known as The Hunchback of Notre Dame). Esmeralda, a captivating and tragic heroine, embodies beauty, innocence, and freedom. She is a Romani dancer whose charm captures the hearts of men, including the bell ringer Quasimodo, priest Claude Frollo, and the captain Phoebus. Her story unfolds in a tale of obsession, love, and sacrifice, leading to her untimely demise. Guerlain’s choice of the name "Jasmiralda" evokes Esmeralda’s spirit, merging her vibrant, enchanting character with the sensuality and allure of jasmine, one of the most celebrated flowers in perfumery.

The name "Jasmiralda" is a creative fusion of the word jasmine and Esmeralda, pronounced "JAZ-mih-ral-da." It evokes images of a sensual, free-spirited woman who defies convention and captivates those around her. The name itself is a tribute to Hugo’s Esmeralda, symbolizing beauty that is both delicate and powerful. Jasmine, known for its rich, narcotic scent, complements the mystery and allure that the character represents, embodying a fragrance that could mirror Esmeralda’s grace, intensity, and vulnerability.

Jasmiralda is classified as a soft floral perfume for women, with a dominant jasmine note. In scent, the name "Jasmiralda" might suggest an intoxicating floral bouquet, led by the sweet, exotic intensity of jasmine—a flower long associated with seduction and sensuality. The fragrance would likely be soft, elegant, yet bold, much like Esmeralda herself. Women of the time period would have connected with the romantic, adventurous spirit of the perfume, which could evoke a sense of mystery and allure, qualities admired during the Belle Époque era, a time marked by cultural flourishing and indulgence.

Launched in 1912, Jasmiralda appeared at the tail end of the Belle Époque, an era of artistic freedom, luxury, and beauty that culminated before the onset of World War I. During this time, women were beginning to experiment with new freedoms, pushing the boundaries of traditional femininity. The character of Esmeralda, with her uninhibited nature and tragic beauty, would have resonated with women who were increasingly looking to assert their independence. A perfume named after such a character would symbolize sensuality, strength, and individuality—qualities that were becoming increasingly important to women of this era.

The use of jasmine as the central note in Jasmiralda is particularly fitting, as jasmine has long been considered one of the most prized ingredients in perfumery. Its rich, heady aroma is known for its seductive qualities, making it an ideal choice for a fragrance meant to evoke the passion and mystique of Esmeralda. Jasmine, often referred to as the "king of flowers" in perfumery, has been used for centuries in luxury fragrances. At the time Jasmiralda was created, Guerlain would likely have sourced its jasmine from Grasse, the historic center of perfume production in France, where jasmine was cultivated for its high-quality and rich, opulent scent.

Jasmine’s significance in the industry comes not only from its intoxicating aroma but also from its versatility, blending well with other florals, woods, and even spices. Guerlain's use of jasmine in Jasmiralda would have lent the fragrance a sense of timeless elegance and femininity, balanced by Esmeralda’s daring spirit. The resulting fragrance would be soft yet impactful, reflecting the dual nature of the character: fragile and strong, innocent yet seductive.

Through Jasmiralda, Jacques Guerlain immortalized the essence of Esmeralda in a scent that captured the elegance of the Belle Époque and the enduring charm of one of literature’s most captivating characters. The perfume offered women of the time not just a fragrance, but an experience of romance, rebellion, and allure, forever tied to the exotic and tragic beauty of Esmeralda.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a soft floral perfume for women with a dominant jasmine note.

• Top notes: jasmine, neroli, orange, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine sambac, rose, bouvardia, violet
• Base notes: amber, oakmoss, vanilla, tonka bean, vetiver, deer musk, civet, benzoin

Recently, I was able to obtain a sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the sweet bubblegum deliciousness of Guerlain's Jasmiralda, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around. 

Scent Profile:

As I begin to experience Jasmiralda, the opening is a cascade of jasmine—its narcotic sweetness fills the air, thick with an almost creamy intensity. The first breath is lush and enveloping, pulling me into its world of heady white petals. Neroli adds a citrusy brightness, like a sudden burst of sunlight through a garden, its light floral touch lifting the richness of jasmine with delicate sweetness. 

The scent of orange brings a cheerful, juicy freshness, balancing the floral depth with a zesty vibrancy. Bergamot rounds out the top, its aromatic sharpness a bit cooler and more refined, offering a fleeting sense of elegance before the warmth of the heart notes begins to bloom.

The heart of Jasmiralda is where the perfume truly reveals its floral complexity. Jasmine sambac takes center stage, with its sensual and intoxicating fragrance, sharper and more exotic than the initial burst of jasmine. It feels almost as though the jasmine has deepened, becoming more animalic, more seductive. 

Rose comes forward with its velvety softness, its familiar, timeless beauty unfurling in the bouquet, balancing the boldness of the jasmine. There’s a fresh greenness to the bouvardia, a hint of earth and dew, which contrasts beautifully with the richer florals. The violet, though subtle, offers a powdery softness, like the fine touch of a delicate fabric. Together, the heart notes feel both wild and controlled—an invitation to lean in closer, drawn by their quiet allure.

As the perfume settles into its base, the warm, resinous notes begin to emerge. Amber wraps the composition in a glowing golden warmth, its soft, honeyed quality lending a sense of calm and depth to the lingering florals. The earthiness of oakmoss brings a grounding element, evoking a damp forest floor, rich and mysterious, adding an almost chypre-like dimension to the perfume. Vanilla sweetens the base, its comforting creaminess subtly intermingling with the spicy warmth of tonka bean, creating a soft, enveloping sweetness that lingers on the skin.

There is a wildness to the base, with the use of deer musk and civet. Their animalic intensity provides a raw sensuality—soft, musky, but slightly untamed. These elements lend a depth to the fragrance, making it feel alive, like something ancient and primal. Vetiver offers a grassy, smoky sharpness that cuts through the sweetness, adding complexity and sophistication. Benzoin brings a resinous, balsamic touch that enhances the creamy vanilla and tonka bean, giving the base a warm, sensual finish that lingers long after the perfume has dried down.

Each stage of Jasmiralda is like walking through a dreamlike garden, from the sparkling citrus and florals of the top notes to the lush, wild heart, and finally into the earthy, musky warmth of the base. The dominant jasmine ties the entire fragrance together, from the initial burst to the lasting dry down, creating a deeply feminine and timeless perfume that is both soft and bold, delicate and powerful.

Bottles:

The parfum extrait was presented in the ‘Bouchon Fleurs’ bottle. Two different size bottles shown below. 

The eau de toilette was presented in the Goutte flacon. 

Fragrance Composition:

Jasmiralda, a delicate yet powerful floral perfume by Guerlain, was discontinued at an unknown date, leaving behind a legacy that extended well into the 20th century. Despite its discontinuation, it was still available for purchase as late as 1941, a testament to its enduring popularity. During this time, Europe was in the midst of World War II, and the luxury of perfume took on a new significance. For many women, a fragrance like Jasmiralda may have provided a sense of normalcy, elegance, and escapism amidst the hardships of the era.

By 1941, Jasmiralda had already established itself as a quintessential floral scent, beloved for its sophisticated use of jasmine and its masterful blending of vibrant top notes with a rich, sensual base. Its floral and slightly animalic character may have resonated with women looking for both a romantic and bold signature scent during the uncertainty of wartime.

The fact that it was still being sold in 1941 also speaks to Guerlain’s ability to maintain the availability of its beloved creations despite the disruptions in trade and production caused by the war. Jasmiralda, with its evocative name and memorable composition, undoubtedly held a special place in the hearts of its wearers, and its disappearance from the market sometime after this period marked the end of an era for the fragrance. However, its legacy as a perfume associated with both floral elegance and the intensity of jasmine continues to be remembered by perfume enthusiasts and collectors.