Kriss by Guerlain, launched in 1942 during the height of World War II, stands as a striking creation by Jacques Guerlain. The name "Kriss" was carefully chosen to evoke the mystique and symbolic power of the keris (or kriss), a serpentine dagger from Southeast Asia, primarily Indonesia, Sumatra, and Malaysia. This ceremonial weapon, pronounced "Kreess," is revered for its spiritual significance, often believed to possess magical powers. Used in religious rites and as a weapon of personal defense, the kriss represents both protection and aggression, a balance of life and death. The weapon's undulating blade, sharp and serpentine, conjures images of ancient traditions, stealth, and danger, which, when translated into fragrance, evokes a sense of mystery, exoticism, and intensity.
The word "Kriss" immediately suggests power and an enigmatic allure, stirring emotions of intrigue and danger. Women in the 1940s, particularly in occupied Paris, might have been drawn to the name for its exotic connotations, offering a fantasy escape from the harsh realities of war. The scent itself, classified as an oriental fougère, would embody this duality—a blend of rich, oriental notes softened by fougère freshness. Such a combination would feel both grounding and sensuous, evoking far-flung lands yet firmly rooted in the timeless elegance expected of a Guerlain fragrance. Kriss might have been perceived as a fragrance for a strong, confident woman, one who, despite the turmoil surrounding her, embraced both sophistication and strength.
The year 1942 marked a tumultuous period, with Nazi forces occupying Paris. Perfume production, like many industries, was deeply affected by the war. Resources were scarce, and access to certain ingredients was limited due to blockades and supply disruptions. Despite this, Guerlain managed to continue creating fragrances, possibly benefiting from a strategic relationship with high-ranking Nazi officials. According to an unfounded rumor, Jacques Guerlain may have designed Kriss for a high-ranking Nazi officer, which, if true, could have been a pragmatic move to ensure the survival of his business during a perilous time. Maintaining such relationships would have provided Guerlain with protection and access to materials and markets otherwise closed off due to the occupation.
The word "Kriss" immediately suggests power and an enigmatic allure, stirring emotions of intrigue and danger. Women in the 1940s, particularly in occupied Paris, might have been drawn to the name for its exotic connotations, offering a fantasy escape from the harsh realities of war. The scent itself, classified as an oriental fougère, would embody this duality—a blend of rich, oriental notes softened by fougère freshness. Such a combination would feel both grounding and sensuous, evoking far-flung lands yet firmly rooted in the timeless elegance expected of a Guerlain fragrance. Kriss might have been perceived as a fragrance for a strong, confident woman, one who, despite the turmoil surrounding her, embraced both sophistication and strength.
The year 1942 marked a tumultuous period, with Nazi forces occupying Paris. Perfume production, like many industries, was deeply affected by the war. Resources were scarce, and access to certain ingredients was limited due to blockades and supply disruptions. Despite this, Guerlain managed to continue creating fragrances, possibly benefiting from a strategic relationship with high-ranking Nazi officials. According to an unfounded rumor, Jacques Guerlain may have designed Kriss for a high-ranking Nazi officer, which, if true, could have been a pragmatic move to ensure the survival of his business during a perilous time. Maintaining such relationships would have provided Guerlain with protection and access to materials and markets otherwise closed off due to the occupation.
The association between the SS and the kriss dagger further adds to the layers of meaning behind the perfume. The SS, known for their ruthlessness, prized the kriss for its deadly precision and symbolic power. As a weapon, it was both a tool of war and a religious artifact, symbolizing dominance, fear, and a dark allure. The kriss’s serpentine form and lethality mirrored the tumultuous, violent era of war, where themes of conquest and power dominated.
Kriss, with its evocative name, perfectly mirrored the atmosphere of the time—blurring the lines between danger and elegance, war and beauty. Despite the wartime setting, the perfume continued to be sold in France even in 1946, after the war had ended. By then, it may have represented a lingering echo of a time of strife, a fragrant reminder of a world in conflict, now looking toward peace but still carrying the weight of history.
Memoirs of American Missionaries, 1833:
"KRISS OR DAGGER from Sumatra. This is of iron with a horn handle and exhibits much of the appearance of a butcher's knife. The sheath is of hard wood very ingeniously carved. It is worn in a girdle which passes round the waist. It is often used as a style for writing which is done upon leaves of the palm or other trees. Its principal use however is probably less pacific in its nature."
I found reference to this perfume as well as Coque D'Or in a 1946 issue of Realities, a French publication:
"Guerlain, Place Vendôme. Here, a lot of activity. Sprays filled with various perfumes throw very strong aromas at the customers' heads. Two creations: Kriss, Coque D'Or. The latter is presented in a luxurious flask, gold and violet, in the form of a noed papillon, that you will see doubtless this winter, for it is reserved to the exportation. Here, the 2 and a half ounces are worth 2,200 francs."
Fragrance Composition:
What does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fougere fragrance for women.
- Top notes: lavender, bergamot, orange blossom, violet
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, sage, cinnamon, leather and animalic notes
- Base notes: tonka bean, oakmoss and musk
Scent Profile:
As I begin to experience Kriss by Guerlain, the first impression is immediately captivating. The sharp, invigorating freshness of lavender dominates, its herbal and slightly camphoraceous nature breathing cool clarity into the air. The lavender feels like the brisk breeze over a dew-drenched field, awakening the senses with its clean, almost medicinal sharpness. As this lavender note settles, the crisp brightness of bergamot emerges. It adds a citrusy sparkle, light and zesty, like a golden ray cutting through mist, balancing the lavender's intensity with a touch of sweetness.
Then, the sweet, honeyed scent of orange blossom follows, both delicate and intoxicating, conjuring images of white petals glowing in a warm, Mediterranean breeze. This floral radiance, slightly waxy and rich, hints at a subtle undercurrent of sensuality. The violet brings a softer, more powdery aspect, gently wrapping these sharper notes in its velvety embrace, offering an almost nostalgic sweetness, a whisper of tenderness amidst the fragrance’s early vigor.
As the heart of Kriss unfolds, the floral chorus deepens, taking me into a lush garden in full bloom. The narcotic richness of jasmine fills the air, its creamy white petals exuding an exotic allure, heady yet balanced by a refined elegance.
Intertwined with the jasmine, the opulence of rose takes center stage. It is a soft, velvety rose, both sweet and slightly dewy, reminiscent of a rose just after sunrise, still kissed by droplets of water. The rose in Kriss feels regal and timeless, evoking images of ancient queens and the grandeur of royal gardens.
Alongside this floral duo, ylang-ylang brings a creamy, tropical richness, with a hint of banana-like sweetness that adds depth and warmth, while the lily of the valley introduces a fresh, green facet—a floral purity that contrasts the heady richness of the other blooms.
Suddenly, a wave of sage sweeps through, earthy and herbaceous, grounding the floral elements with its aromatic, slightly peppery touch. The cinnamon follows closely, spicing the composition with its warmth, a reminder of ancient spices carried across deserts and into bustling markets. It is subtle but unmistakably warm and comforting, adding a sense of depth.
And then, out of nowhere, the unmistakable touch of leather enters the composition—rich, supple, and animalic, evoking the scent of ancient tanned hides and the ceremonial garb of warriors. This leather note brings a touch of the forbidden and primal, lending Kriss a darker, more enigmatic edge. The animalic notes beneath the leather add a hint of raw sensuality, an undercurrent of danger that feels as though it has traveled through time, from the shadowy past to the present.
As the fragrance begins to settle, the base notes emerge, anchoring the scent with a warm, earthy foundation. The rich sweetness of tonka bean creates a velvety softness, blending creamy vanilla-like nuances with a touch of almond. It feels comforting, like a luxurious wrap against the skin.
The deep, mossy presence of oakmoss introduces a forest-like earthiness, grounding the floral and spicy notes with its damp, woody richness. It brings to mind ancient temples covered in greenery, where the scent of nature is thick in the air. Finally, the deep sensuality of musk ties everything together, enveloping the fragrance in a soft, almost skin-like warmth. The musk in Kriss feels both intimate and distant—an echo of ancient rites, where scent was used to invoke both desire and power.
Each of these notes in Kriss paints an evocative picture, taking me on a sensory journey through time. It feels as though I am standing in an ancient temple, the air thick with incense, surrounded by floral garlands and spices, while the rich scent of leather and musk wafts through the corridors. Kriss is a fragrance that tells a story of mystery, power, and sensuality, as if each ingredient is a piece of the past, carefully preserved and brought into the present.
What does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fougere fragrance for women.
- Top notes: lavender, bergamot, orange blossom, violet
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, sage, cinnamon, leather and animalic notes
- Base notes: tonka bean, oakmoss and musk
Scent Profile:
As I begin to experience Kriss by Guerlain, the first impression is immediately captivating. The sharp, invigorating freshness of lavender dominates, its herbal and slightly camphoraceous nature breathing cool clarity into the air. The lavender feels like the brisk breeze over a dew-drenched field, awakening the senses with its clean, almost medicinal sharpness. As this lavender note settles, the crisp brightness of bergamot emerges. It adds a citrusy sparkle, light and zesty, like a golden ray cutting through mist, balancing the lavender's intensity with a touch of sweetness.
Then, the sweet, honeyed scent of orange blossom follows, both delicate and intoxicating, conjuring images of white petals glowing in a warm, Mediterranean breeze. This floral radiance, slightly waxy and rich, hints at a subtle undercurrent of sensuality. The violet brings a softer, more powdery aspect, gently wrapping these sharper notes in its velvety embrace, offering an almost nostalgic sweetness, a whisper of tenderness amidst the fragrance’s early vigor.
As the heart of Kriss unfolds, the floral chorus deepens, taking me into a lush garden in full bloom. The narcotic richness of jasmine fills the air, its creamy white petals exuding an exotic allure, heady yet balanced by a refined elegance.
Intertwined with the jasmine, the opulence of rose takes center stage. It is a soft, velvety rose, both sweet and slightly dewy, reminiscent of a rose just after sunrise, still kissed by droplets of water. The rose in Kriss feels regal and timeless, evoking images of ancient queens and the grandeur of royal gardens.
Alongside this floral duo, ylang-ylang brings a creamy, tropical richness, with a hint of banana-like sweetness that adds depth and warmth, while the lily of the valley introduces a fresh, green facet—a floral purity that contrasts the heady richness of the other blooms.
Suddenly, a wave of sage sweeps through, earthy and herbaceous, grounding the floral elements with its aromatic, slightly peppery touch. The cinnamon follows closely, spicing the composition with its warmth, a reminder of ancient spices carried across deserts and into bustling markets. It is subtle but unmistakably warm and comforting, adding a sense of depth.
And then, out of nowhere, the unmistakable touch of leather enters the composition—rich, supple, and animalic, evoking the scent of ancient tanned hides and the ceremonial garb of warriors. This leather note brings a touch of the forbidden and primal, lending Kriss a darker, more enigmatic edge. The animalic notes beneath the leather add a hint of raw sensuality, an undercurrent of danger that feels as though it has traveled through time, from the shadowy past to the present.
As the fragrance begins to settle, the base notes emerge, anchoring the scent with a warm, earthy foundation. The rich sweetness of tonka bean creates a velvety softness, blending creamy vanilla-like nuances with a touch of almond. It feels comforting, like a luxurious wrap against the skin.
The deep, mossy presence of oakmoss introduces a forest-like earthiness, grounding the floral and spicy notes with its damp, woody richness. It brings to mind ancient temples covered in greenery, where the scent of nature is thick in the air. Finally, the deep sensuality of musk ties everything together, enveloping the fragrance in a soft, almost skin-like warmth. The musk in Kriss feels both intimate and distant—an echo of ancient rites, where scent was used to invoke both desire and power.
Each of these notes in Kriss paints an evocative picture, taking me on a sensory journey through time. It feels as though I am standing in an ancient temple, the air thick with incense, surrounded by floral garlands and spices, while the rich scent of leather and musk wafts through the corridors. Kriss is a fragrance that tells a story of mystery, power, and sensuality, as if each ingredient is a piece of the past, carefully preserved and brought into the present.
Bottles:
Packaged in the blue crystal Noed Papillon flacon (parfum) by Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. Also available in the quadrilobe bottle (parfum).
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