Aubepine by Guerlain c1839

Launched in 1839, Aubépine, created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain is a fragrance that carries a poetic and evocative name. Aubépine is pronounced in English as "oh-bay-peen" — with a soft, nasal 'n' at the end. The term Aubépine is derived from the French word for hawthorn, a type of shrub known for its delicate white or pink blossoms and thorny branches. By choosing this name, Guerlain conjured images of lush, natural beauty and the subtle yet poignant allure of the hawthorn flower.

The name Aubépine elicits a sense of tranquility and pastoral charm. The hawthorn, with its delicate blooms and its association with ancient folklore and symbolism, evokes images of serene countryside landscapes and a gentle, understated elegance. The flower's historical use in various cultural and medicinal contexts adds layers of meaning, from its role in traditional remedies to its symbolic significance in love and protection.

In scent, Aubépine would likely be interpreted as a fragrance that reflects the delicate and ethereal qualities of the hawthorn flower. Expect a blend of soft, floral notes with a touch of green freshness, capturing the essence of the hawthorn's gentle beauty. The fragrance might include subtle hints of white florals and a touch of woody or herbal undertones, creating a composition that is both calming and refined.

For women of the 19th century, a perfume named Aubépine would have offered a connection to nature's beauty and a sense of sophistication. The name would resonate with the romantic and pastoral sensibilities of the time, appealing to those who appreciated the subtle elegance of floral fragrances. It would have been seen as a refined choice, embodying both the charm of the natural world and the artistry of high-quality perfumery.

The year 1839, when Aubépine was introduced, was marked by a period of cultural and social transformation. Queen Victoria had recently ascended to the throne, and the era was characterized by a growing interest in both romanticism and the natural world. Aubépine fits neatly into this context, reflecting the 19th-century fascination with delicate, nature-inspired scents and the broader trend of celebrating the beauty of the natural world through art and fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Aubépine by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: orange flower, acacia  
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, violet,
• Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, tolu, musk 

Scent Profile:

As I inhale the opening of Aubépine by Guerlain, I’m greeted with a light, sun-warmed sweetness — the fragrance begins with a radiant breath of orange flower, its luminous, honeyed nuances capturing the feeling of spring’s first golden light. There is a creamy white freshness here, tinged with subtle green undertones, like petals unfurling beside citrus groves. This brightness is softened by the gentle powder of acacia blossom — often likened to mimosa, but more delicate. Its scent is whisper-light, with a silky, airy sweetness that diffuses like pollen on a breeze. Acacia from southern France carries a fresh, dewy transparency, its floral tone slightly almondic and softly luminous, setting the stage for a heart of tender romance.

As the perfume evolves, a soft, voluptuous jasmine emerges — likely sourced from Grasse, where the cooler, mineral-rich soils lend the flowers a beautifully complex profile: heady yet green, sweet but not overwhelming. It feels alive, a little indolic, and deeply sensual, grounding the acacia’s lightness. Entwined with this is rose, perhaps the May rose also from Grasse, contributing a round, honeyed depth and a faint peppery freshness that anchors the floral heart. It lends a plush texture, like a velvet ribbon wrapped among petals. And then, violet — not sugary or candied, but gently ionized, evoking the cool, silvery sheen of crushed leaves and purple blossoms beneath fingers. Here, methyl ionone, an early synthetic introduced in the 1890s, likely enhances the violet accord. It lends not only a powdery violet-lavender impression but also a sense of distant woods and a lightly creamy softness, bridging florals with what is to come.

The drydown warms into a quiet, skin-close murmur of vanilla, rich and true, most likely from Mexico, where the beans are cured in the sun and develop a leathery, balsamic richness. Its sweetness is not cloying but textured — smooth and milky, like aged parchment. Woven with it is the round nuttiness of tonka bean, with its natural coumarin content lending a hay-like, toasted-almond nuance. The tolu balsam, hailing from South America, adds a resinous, softly spiced warmth with hints of cinnamon and caramel, giving the base a kind of soft amber-glow that lingers long after the floral brightness has faded. Musk, likely derived from natural tinctures in the early formulations, imbues everything with an almost imperceptible animalic whisper — a breath of skin and warmth that deepens the scent’s presence.

Aubépine wears like the memory of flowers pressed between the pages of an old journal — delicate, luminous, and faintly nostalgic, with each note telling a part of the story.

Bottles:

The fragrance was housed inside of the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1877.