A Travers Champs by Guerlain c1898

 À Travers Champs, launched in 1898 by Aimé Guerlain, is a fragrance that captures the essence of the countryside. The name, which translates from French as "Across the Fields," evokes a sense of peaceful meandering through open meadows filled with blooming flowers. It suggests a break from the constraints of urban life, a moment of freedom in nature where one can enjoy the simple beauty of the outdoors. The choice of name reflects Guerlain's intent to craft a perfume that connects its wearer with the natural world, evoking imagery of walking through vast expanses of wildflowers under a clear sky. The title speaks to a bucolic dream, one where the breeze carries the delicate scent of flowers across open fields, inviting feelings of nostalgia, serenity, and natural beauty.

In scent, "À Travers Champs" would embody the freshness and sweetness of field flowers. Since it was based on the flowers of the fields, it would likely have included notes reminiscent of wild roses, daisies, violets, and other delicate blossoms commonly found in meadows. The scent profile would be light, airy, and floral, capturing the purity of untouched nature. Guerlain's expertise in blending these floral elements would have made the fragrance soft yet uplifting, as if one were inhaling the clean, fresh air of a country garden. The incorporation of both natural extracts and emerging synthetics would have enhanced the fragrance's ability to create the illusion of walking through fields in bloom. The natural ingredients would provide authenticity and depth, while the synthetic elements could prolong the fragrance's longevity and complexity, resulting in a harmonious balance.

Women of the time would have likely found "À Travers Champs" deeply appealing. The idea of a fragrance based on meadow flowers would resonate with a romanticized vision of nature and purity, which was particularly cherished during the late 19th century. Many women in this era were drawn to perfumes that connected them to nature, especially as industrialization transformed cities into bustling centers of commerce and pollution. Wearing a scent like "À Travers Champs" would have allowed them to momentarily escape the busy urban environment and embody a more natural, serene persona. The fragrance would have symbolized an idealized rural life, one full of innocence and simplicity, while also serving as a reminder of the fleeting beauty of nature.

The late 19th century was a period of great change, both in society and in perfumery. The industrial revolution was in full swing, leading to shifts in lifestyle, fashion, and the availability of luxury goods like perfume. Field flower fragrances, also known as meadow flower perfumes, were incredibly popular during this time, as they represented a longing for nature in the face of urbanization. Many perfumers had their own interpretations of meadow flower scents, with formulas frequently appearing in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias of the period. These formulas were often based on blends of various flower extracts and essences, carefully designed to evoke the fresh, natural scent of flowers blooming in open fields. In the earlier part of the century, natural extracts such as absolutes, infusions, and tinctures would have been the primary ingredients used to create these fragrances.

However, by the late 19th century, advances in chemistry were transforming perfumery. Newly discovered synthetic aroma compounds began to be incorporated into formulations, allowing for greater creativity and precision in scent creation. These synthetics enabled perfumers to recreate the freshness of field flowers more vividly and made fragrances more accessible to a wider audience. Guerlain, always at the forefront of innovation, would have likely used a blend of traditional natural ingredients and modern synthetic compounds in "À Travers Champs," making it a fragrance that bridged the gap between nature and modernity.

In this context, "À Travers Champs" reflected not only the natural beauty of the countryside but also the evolving art of perfumery itself, as it embraced both the past and the future in its composition. The fragrance would have been a perfect match for women who wanted to express their connection to nature while remaining fashionable and modern in an increasingly industrialized world.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Based on antique formulary books, I have composed a possible fragrance pyramid for the original 1898 fragrance. It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance with spicy and woody elements.

• Top notes: rose geranium, acacia, bergamot, lavender, verbena, lemongrass, lemon, neroli
• Middle notes: violet, cinnamon, caraway, nutmeg, rose, orange blossom, orris, jasmine, peppermint
• Base notes: tonka bean, musk, civet, almond, vanilla, patchouli, cloves, sandalwood, ambergris

Scent Profile:

As I take in the opening of À Travers Champs, the top notes greet me with a burst of freshness, like stepping into a sun-drenched meadow. The rose geranium offers a delicate balance of floral and green, with a slightly minty undertone, reminiscent of soft petals caught in a summer breeze. The sweet, powdery fragrance of acacia hums in the background, lending a soft, honeyed warmth. 

Suddenly, the sharp and sparkling zest of bergamot and lemon cuts through, bright and invigorating, while the herbal touch of lavender mingles with the citrus, creating a calming yet uplifting accord. There's also the vibrant green bite of lemongrass and the crisp, slightly bitter floral of neroli, which weaves through the top, adding a sophisticated edge to this fresh bouquet.

As the scent begins to settle into the heart, the middle notes emerge with greater complexity, revealing a spicy and floral symphony. The velvety, dark sweetness of violet melds with the romantic elegance of rose, painting a portrait of a garden at dusk, where the flowers exude their most potent fragrance. The spice of cinnamon and nutmeg offers warmth, wrapping the florals in a comforting, almost gourmand-like embrace, while the slightly anise-like sharpness of caraway adds intrigue. 

The orange blossom unfurls next, bringing a bright, white floral sweetness that contrasts beautifully with the spicy notes. Orris root, with its powdery and earthy nuance, deepens the heart, adding a smooth, luxurious texture. A whisper of peppermint provides an unexpected coolness, gently lifting the warmth of the spices and adding a refreshing twist to the floral heart.

As the fragrance dries down, the rich, opulent base envelops the senses in a warm, sensual cocoon. Tonka bean dominates with its creamy, almond-like sweetness, while vanilla adds a luscious, comforting layer that feels soft and indulgent. Musk and the slightly animalic touch of civet bring an intimate, velvety warmth, while ambergris adds a subtle, salty, marine-like depth, evoking the feeling of warm skin kissed by the sun. 

Patchouli introduces an earthy richness, grounding the fragrance with its deep, resinous character. The spicy warmth of cloves adds a final touch of exotic heat, blending seamlessly with the creamy sandalwood, which smooths the base into a silky, woody finish. Every note works in harmony, creating a scent that is at once complex, warm, and deeply evocative.

À Travers Champs evokes the feeling of wandering through a field at the height of summer, the warmth of the sun on your skin, surrounded by the intoxicating mix of flowers, spices, and woods. It feels both familiar and exotic, a journey across landscapes both wild and cultivated, filled with rich and sensual experiences.

Fate of the Fragrance:

À Travers Champs was originally launched in 1898, and its reformulation by Jacques Guerlain in 1921 marked a new chapter for the fragrance, reflecting both the evolving trends of the perfume industry and the house's commitment to modernity. Jacques Guerlain, a master at reinventing classic compositions, infused the fragrance with contemporary elements while maintaining the spirit of the original. By incorporating newer ingredients and blending techniques, he ensured that À Travers Champs remained relevant in the rapidly changing world of early 20th-century perfumery.

Women of the 1920s, who were embracing newfound freedoms and a more modern lifestyle, would have connected with À Travers Champs in a different way than their counterparts in 1898. In the post-World War I era, they sought perfumes that reflected their liberation, femininity, and sophistication. The name, "À Travers Champs," still suggested a connection to nature, but now, it also symbolized a journey through modernity—a crossing of boundaries from the traditional to the avant-garde.

Theatre magazine - Volumes 43-44 - Page 62, 1926:

"...When she steps up to the perfume counter and tries to pronounce the French names, she struggles—often badly—and usually, the clerk behind the counter doesn’t offer much help. Of course, if you don’t know French, they can be difficult, and ironically, the simpler the name, the trickier it can be to pronounce. Take Guerlain’s new perfume, 'À Travers Champs,' for example. It looks relatively straightforward, but it actually takes a bit of skill to say it smoothly. But is that stopping it from selling? Absolutely not! It’s flying off the shelves!"

Harper's Bazaar, 1930:

• "Guerlain " Liu": newest, oriental, stunning black and gold flacon. 
• "Mitsouko": oriental; crystal bottle with carved stopper.  
• "Candides Effluves"; bouquet; flat oval crystal flacon. "Vague Souvenir": divine heavy gardenia; simple crystal bottle. 
• "L'Heure Bleue": rich bouquet; crystal bottle with carved stopper. 
• "Shalimar"; light oriental; urn-shaped crystal bottle.
• "Djedi": amberish bouquet; oblong indented crystal bottle.
• "Champs Elysees": spicy bouquet; faceted, turtle-shaped crystal flacon.
• "Rue de la Paix": bouquet; simple crystal flacon. 
• "Guerlinade," bouquet; flat oval crystal flacon;.. 
• "A Travers Champs": bouquet; flat oval crystal bottle. 
• "Après l'Ondée": fresh bouquet for sports clothes; round carved crystal flacon."

Fragrance Composition:

In this reformulated version, Jacques Guerlain would have utilized newly developed synthetics, which had become increasingly popular by the early 20th century. These synthetic compounds allowed for a more precise control over the composition and added longevity and complexity to the fragrance. Despite these innovations, the heart of the fragrance remained tied to its roots, with its focus on floral and spicy elements, evoking the same images of fields in full bloom and the warm sun filtering through blossoms.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery floral amber fragrance for women based on flowers of the fields.

• Top notes: lily of the valley, violet, bergamot, petitgrain
• Middle notes: rose, orris, carnation, ylang ylang, sandalwood, clove, patchouli, benzoin
• Base notes: orris, vanilla, suede

The New Yorker, 1928:

"Old Favorite Department: While we are on the Guerlain subject, I might as well mention that A Travers Champs, a perfume little known because it is rather musky until it dries, is still, to my mind, ideal for the tailleur."

Scent Profile:

As I inhale the first impression of À Travers Champs, a delicate veil of powdery sweetness opens with the tender notes of lily of the valley and violet. The lily of the valley smells fresh, slightly green, as though I’ve just crushed the fragile white bells underfoot in a blooming meadow. Violet, meanwhile, adds a soft, nostalgic sweetness, powdery and almost wistful. 

Bergamot, sharp and citrusy, cuts through with a burst of brightness, while petitgrain brings a hint of woodsy greenness, balancing the florals with an earthy touch that feels as if I’ve brushed against leaves still wet with morning dew.


The heart of the fragrance begins to blossom with a rich and multi-layered floral bouquet. The rose is sensual and full-bodied, its petals plush and velvety, evoking a sense of timeless elegance. Orris root intensifies this powdery floral softness, contributing a creamy, almost buttery smoothness that lends the fragrance a classic vintage feel. 

Carnation arrives next, spiced and peppery, adding a subtle bite to the sweetness. Ylang ylang sweeps in with its exotic, fruity-floral character, hinting at tropical warmth and an almost narcotic depth. Sandalwood follows with its creamy, resinous warmth, grounding the florals and creating a tactile, silky texture. Clove and patchouli add a whisper of spice and earthiness, their notes blending seamlessly with the florals, giving a hint of sensual intrigue, while benzoin wraps everything in a soft, balsamic sweetness, rich and enveloping like a golden haze.

As the scent settles into its base, orris root returns, even more prominent, lending the drydown a powdery, almost suede-like texture. The orris is smooth and luxurious, like brushing velvet against your skin, while the vanilla softens the overall composition with its comforting sweetness, creamy and rich. 

Suede emerges softly, lending a subtle warmth and softness to the finish, making the scent feel tactile, as if you could wrap yourself in it like a delicate, powdery shawl. Together, these notes create an enduring, powdery amber warmth that feels both refined and timeless, with just the right balance of floral elegance and earthy, comforting undertones.

Comparison of the two Versions:

The original À Travers Champs by Guerlain, launched in 1898 and created by Aimé Guerlain, was centered around a blend of wildflowers, capturing the essence of nature and the countryside. It was inspired by field flowers and sought to evoke the feeling of walking through the open fields, surrounded by fresh blossoms. The fragrance was built around delicate floral notes and featured a naturalistic composition, relying heavily on natural extracts, infusions, and absolutes, which were commonly used at the time. The original would have had a more straightforward, natural floral composition with softer, green, and earthy undertones, creating an air of simplicity, freshness, and elegance. Given the time period, it would have been created with mostly natural ingredients, making the fragrance a direct reflection of its time.

In contrast, the reformulated version of À Travers Champs, relaunched in 1921 by Jacques Guerlain, evolved to adapt to changing times, both in terms of style and available ingredients. By the 1920s, the fragrance world was moving towards more complex and layered compositions, with the introduction of modern synthetics that enhanced the longevity and intensity of perfumes. Jacques Guerlain would have updated the fragrance to suit modern tastes of the roaring twenties, likely making it richer, warmer, and more refined.

While the original À Travers Champs was predominantly floral and based on fresh, wild meadow flowers, the reformulated version introduced powdery, amber, and spicy notes, making the fragrance more sophisticated and luxurious. The base notes, such as vanilla, suede, and benzoin, added warmth and depth, which were characteristic of Guerlain fragrances from that era. This version had a more complex and powdery character, with a more sensual, lingering drydown. It reflected the changing role of perfume in society—from a simple accessory to a symbol of opulence and personal style.

In summary, the key differences between the two versions lie in their composition and character. The original emphasized the freshness and natural beauty of wildflowers, while the reformulated version incorporated more amber, powdery, and spicy elements, reflecting the evolution of perfumery into a more sophisticated and luxurious art form.

Bottles:

The relaunch in 1921 also introduced À Travers Champs in a redesigned bottle, echoing the new aesthetic of the time. Art Deco was on the rise, and packaging played an essential role in defining a fragrance’s identity. The new bottle reflected sleek lines and modern elegance, embodying the luxury and sophistication that Guerlain was known for. This fresh presentation aligned with the glamorous and forward-thinking spirit of the 1920s, making the fragrance more appealing to the fashionable women of the era.

Launched in the Lyre flacon (parfum), the Quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Brun Fume flacon (parfum), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), Flacon Petit Beurre (parfum), the Amphore flacon (parfum), flacon Capsule (lotion vegetale).

Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-1959:

Flacon quadrilobe was made by five different glass manufacturers: Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, St Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristalleries de Nancy, Cristal Romesnil, Verreries Brosse, and BSN-GD Flaconnage to hold extraits for various perfumes. Some later bottles hold eaux de toilette or eaux de parfum. Baccarat flacon #24. Created in 1908 for the fragrance Rue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ because of the laurel leaf borders.

Since the bottle shape has been used for many decades, the various glassworks needed to modify their original moulds, including the bottle itself and the stopper. One should remember that with the change from ground glass stoppers to ones with the plastic plugs (plastemeri) - this automatically altered the overall capacity and size of the bottles. Authors Atlas & Monniot in their book, mentioned that it would be "unreasonable" to list all the numerous changes that took place with these alterations. They state that "an original mould may have been modified up to five times for a bottle of the same capacity with only slight differences in the size."

This bottle was used for A Travers Champs extrait until 1959, when the fragrance was discontinued. Please note that you should not find any A Travers Champs bottles with a plastimeri stopper.

Flacon Brun Fume (Brown Smoke) c1933 -?

This bottle was designed by Raymond Guerlain and made by Baccarat to hold extraits of Candide Effluve, A Travers Champs, Loin de Tout and Guerlinade.  Baccarat flacon #744.

Flacon Lyre c1921-1959:

This bottle was created by Baccarat to house Candide Efflueve, A Travers Champs and Guerlinade. Also produced by Pochet et du Courval in a very small quantity for export to the USA. Baccarat flacon #475.  

Flacon Petit Beurre (Little Butter Pat) c1916 - ?

Limited edition flacon created by Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Rue de la Paix, Candide Effluve, A Travers Champs, Fol Arome, Quand Vient L'Ete , Kadine, Guerlinade, Une Rose, Pour Troubler, Vague Souvenir and Champs Elysees.

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-1959:

Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. This bottle held over 30 different perfumes. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’. This bottle was used for A Travers Champs Eau de Toilette until 1959, when the fragrance was discontinued.

Flacon Amphore (Amphora) c1955-1959:

Also known as "Flacon Ode" as it was first used for the perfume Ode. The frosted and clear glass bottle is in the shape of an amphora with draped motifs and topped with a stopper molded in the shape of a rosebud. Some early bottles (1955) will have a gilded plastic rosebud screw top. Bottle made by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. This bottle was used for A Travers Champs extrait until 1959, when the fragrance was discontinued.

Flacon Capsule c1920-1959:

Pochet & Du Courval created this bottle to hold Lotion Vegetale in numerous scents, such as A Travers Champs, L'Heure Bleue, Jicky, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Chant D'Aromes and others. Lotion Vegetale was a hair dressing created in 1900; this presentation was launched in 1920.

Fate of the Fragrance:

À Travers Champs by Guerlain, which was reformulated in 1921 by Jacques Guerlain, was eventually discontinued in 1959. The discontinuation marked the end of a fragrance that had spanned over six decades, evolving through various eras of fashion and fragrance trends. The perfume’s departure from Guerlain's collection likely reflected the changing tastes and shifts in the perfume industry that were moving toward modern, bolder compositions in the post-war era.

During its lifetime, À Travers Champs encapsulated the essence of nature, particularly the countryside, and had a floral, powdery profile that resonated with women seeking a fragrance embodying timeless elegance and simplicity. However, by the mid-20th century, the world of perfumery was undergoing significant changes. Modern synthetics were becoming more dominant, and consumer preferences were shifting toward fragrances that were more abstract, with bold, long-lasting accords. This shift made perfumes that were rooted in simpler, naturalistic compositions, such as À Travers Champs, appear out of step with the emerging trends of the time.

By 1959, fragrances like À Travers Champs, with its subtle floral bouquet and naturalistic qualities, likely felt too traditional in a world where perfume houses were experimenting with new materials, daring notes, and increasingly complex scents. The rising popularity of aldehydic, chypre, and floral-oriental perfumes, such as Guerlain’s own Shalimar and Chanel's No. 5, brought a sense of modernity and glamour that eclipsed fragrances like À Travers Champs.

While its discontinuation marked the end of an era for this beloved fragrance, À Travers Champs remains a nostalgic symbol of an earlier time in perfumery, where the beauty of nature and the delicate interplay of flowers reigned supreme. Its legacy continues to be appreciated by vintage perfume collectors and enthusiasts who cherish its elegant simplicity and the story it tells of Guerlain’s mastery of the floral genre.