Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain c1923

Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain, launched in 1873 and reformulated in 1923, carries a name rich in both tradition and innovation. The phrase "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" is French, translating to "Spirit of New Flowers." This name captures both the ethereal essence of floral beauty and the freshness of something novel, highlighting Guerlain's intention to bring forth a new interpretation of an older, beloved formula. The word "esprit" suggests something more than just a scent—it evokes the soul, the very spirit of the flowers themselves, adding an element of depth and sophistication. By including "nouvelles," meaning "new," Guerlain nods to a renewal, a rebirth of this floral creation for a new era.

The name "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" would evoke images of vibrant gardens filled with fresh blossoms at the peak of their bloom, the air heavy with the intoxicating, delicate scent of flowers. It calls to mind the freshness of spring mornings, where the light is soft, and the world feels rejuvenated after winter’s dormancy. The emotional tone behind the name is one of renewal, grace, and elegance, suggesting a fragrance that would embody both timeless femininity and modern sensibilities.

In scent, Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely open with a light, airy bouquet of crisp, dewy florals, capturing the freshness of newly bloomed petals. The fragrance would have delicate, almost transparent top notes, leading into a heart of richer, headier blossoms. Perhaps the scent would echo the original floral composition of Esprit de Fleurs from 1828, but with new ingredients introduced to reflect contemporary tastes of the 1920s. The emphasis on "new flowers" could also hint at the inclusion of more exotic or recently discovered floral essences that were becoming popular in modern perfumery.

For the women of the late 19th century, a perfume called Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would have felt refined, embodying the delicate femininity and romantic ideals of the time. Floral perfumes were deeply connected with notions of purity, beauty, and grace, all of which aligned with the societal expectations of women during this period. A woman wearing Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely have felt as though she was draped in the finest blooms, exuding elegance and subtle charm.

When Guerlain reformulated the fragrance in 1923, it was an opportunity to bring the perfume into the modern age while still honoring its heritage. By that time, perfumery had undergone a transformation. The introduction of synthetic ingredients alongside traditional natural essences allowed for more complex, long-lasting fragrances. Guerlain’s decision to reformulate with modern ingredients not only reflected the advancements in perfume chemistry but also catered to the evolving preferences of their clientele. The 1920s were a period of great social and cultural change, with women embracing newfound independence and boldness in fashion and lifestyle. A perfume like Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles, with its connection to the past but crafted for the present, would have resonated with modern women who still cherished timeless elegance but desired something more contemporary and daring.

By relaunching Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles on the brink of their 100-year anniversary, Maison Guerlain demonstrated their mastery of tradition while showing their readiness to adapt and innovate. The reformulation was symbolic, offering a modernized homage to the original creation from 1828, ensuring that it could continue to captivate future generations with its refined floral allure.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was a floral fragrance, I am unsure of the actual formula, it may have been based on Essence Bouquet or Esprit de Bouquet, two names for the same very popular fragrance in the 19th century.

• Top notes: bergamot, acacia, neroli, lemon, lavender
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, rose, orris, orange blossom
• Base notes: ambergris, musk, sandalwood

Harper's Bazaar, 1904:

"PERMIT me, madam, to volunteer a word of advice! You make use of toilet waters. Well, beware of any such of which benjamin gum forms a constituent part, as this spoils the skin, and procure rather perfumed Eau de Cologne, which constitutes the truly genuine toilet water for ladies. I might point out particularly, amongst Guerlain's exquisite 'creations,' the 'Eau du Coq,' a new and faintly delicate perfume, and the 'Eau de Fleurs Nouvelles,' which is also very much appreciated on account of its remarkable fineness and sweetness." 

Bottles:

When it was originally launched as a parfum during the 19th century, it was presented in the Carre flacon, but when it was released in 1923, it was presented in the Goutte flacon as an eau de toilette.

photo from museu del perfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued sometime in the 1930s.