La Pyrommee - Guerlain's First Kohl Eyeliner

The more daring woman may have lined her eyes with La Pyrommee, an Arabian styled kohl powder for the eyes kept inside an ivory tube decorated with an eye motif. Advertising of the era told a story that Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain learned the secret formula from an Armenian Pasha who gave it to the ladies of his harem.

A press article from 1840 reported excitedly: "The word is made up of Greek words, one of which is a fire and the other eye. So you will immediately understand that Pyrommée is nothing else than the secret of a fiery gaze.

Once we have managed to bring the hair to shine and the complexion to shine, now we see through the Geheinmis the gaze, where the soul of beauty and the unveiling of intelligence is. This is certainly something that comes close to fame and glory. "

Pyrommée is incredibly successful, although in the 19th  Century Makeup is primarily used by actresses and prostitutes. Only in the 1950 years of selling Pyrommée is set.

All the Year Round, Volume 6 By Charles Dickens, 1862:

"Thirdly there is a very fine black powdery substance sold in little ivory cases accompanied by a terminating at one end in a little stump is sold as Koheuil or Pyrommee, its is to blacken the eyelashes and the edge of eyelids in order to render the glances provoking as the wrapper emphatically says." 

Town Topics, the Journal of Society, Volume 29, 1893: 

"My dear Lena, you asked me to see about some small articles de toilette. So I went to Guerlain's and this is what he suggests for you. An etui of Pyrommee for the eyes, it certainly makes one's eyes look better and is quite harmless. It contains a little India rubber tampon that you pass gently under and over your eyelashes, but before using it, blow off the black that is too thick or you will have too much on and look as if you had two lovely black eyes. It undoubtedly gives brilliancy to the eyes and does not show in the least, I use it as well for my eyebrows, the least little soupcon and I am sure you have never noticed it. To keep your powder on, there is one famous article from Guerlain's called Creme Patti. The Comtesse de B. always uses it and she is certainly the best arranged woman in France. You put it on all over your face and rub it well in. Don't think it is greasy for it is not. Her face never looks hot or greasy. Then you wipe it off with a soft towel and put your powder on lightly. If you want any rouge, and if you are feeling tired or ill, it is sometimes necessary try lip salve on your cheeks, tout bonnement, and a little powder on the top of it. Rouge gives such a hard expression I think, whereas lip salve no one can see. I defy them to find you out, and one hates one's little secrets to be revealed to the world. I ordered you yards of Heliotrope flannel to put in the wardrobes and also on your bodies as sachet powder invariably comes out and makes a dust. A new perfume called Nice Dear. I thought irresistible. In France, we adopt a perfume and stick to it. One's scent is really part of one's self. l am sure you will like Nice Dear enough to wish not to change again, and that you will find with the Creme Patti and the Poudre de Blanc de Perles, the lip salve, and the black for your eyes, time and weather are naught to you, Lena dear, I swear secrecy, no torture could wrench this secret from my lips,"

images: worthpoint, drouot