Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Guerlain in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. All trademarks belong to their respective owners. The main objective of this website is to chronicle the 200+ year old history of the Guerlain fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years. Let this site be your source for information on antique and vintage Guerlain perfumes. Another goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Guerlain company how much we miss many of the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances! I invite you to leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or on what occasion, what it smelled like to you, how it made you feel, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Guerlain brand might see it. If you have any questions, please send all images of your bottle and pertinent information directly to me at cleopatrasboudoir@gmail.com. I will try to assist you the best I can.

Looking to Buy Vintage Fragrances?

Friday, July 26, 2013

Flacon Bouchon Coeur (Heart Shaped Stopper) c1912-Present



Flacon Bouchon Coeur (Heart Shaped Stopper) c1912-Present


Flacon originally created to house extraits of L'Heure Bleue, Fol Arome and Mitsouko.

Used since 1990s for eau de toilette and eau de parfum concentrations for L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Jicky and La Petite Robe Noire.

Later used for special edition fragrances such as La Petite Robe Noire, Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus, Shalimar and others.

Flacon created by Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval,Verreries Brosse, Cristalleries de Nancy and possibly Cristal Romesnil. Designed by Raymond Guerlain in collaboration with Baccarat.


Baccarat:
  • 40ml/1.35 oz - 9.5cm/3.74" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 80ml/2.7 oz - 11.8cm/4.65" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 125ml/4.2 oz - 13.8cm/5.43" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 250ml/8.4 oz - 16.5cm/6.5" (1912, updated edition in1947)
  • 500ml/16.9 oz - 20cm/7.87" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 1 liter/1000ml - 24.5cm/9.65" (1912, updated edition in 1947)

Other manufacturers:
  • 7.5ml/1.25 oz - 6cm/2.36" (1984) : plastic stopper
  • 10ml/0.388 oz - (1954) : ground glass stopper
  • 15ml/0.5 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1979) : plastic stopper
  • 20ml/0.676 oz - 8.2cm/3.23" (1935) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic in 1968
  • 30ml/1 oz - 9.2cm/3.62" (1924) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic in 1960
  • 50ml/1.7 oz - 10.3cm/4.06" (1930) : ground glass stopper
  • 60ml/2 oz - 13.4cm/5.28" (1962) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic
  • 85ml/2.87 oz - (1911) : changed to 80ml in 1929
  • 125ml/4.2 oz - (1911)
  • 250ml/8.4 oz - (1911)
  • 500ml/16.9 oz - (1911)



Mitsouko, showing the different sizes used for the extraits.


This bottle has been used for various limited luxury editions of different Guerlain perfumes in recent years.


Such as the following examples:


Limited Edition c2007 Baccarat bottles "The Four Seasons" coffret. Photos by Monogramme.


L'Heure Bleue limited edition c2007 Swarovski Crystals.




Mitsouko Prestigious Baccarat Limited Edition c2009

Limited Edition - L’Heure Bleue 1912 – 2012 Coffret 


Thursday, July 25, 2013

La Petite Robe Noire Lingerie Mist c2013

Thierry Wasser has created an limited edition air mist called La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Lingerie, for perfume lingerie and dresses.

This eau de lingerie's fragrance is based on the La Petite Robe Noire perfume and combines notes of black cherry, bergamot and rose.

The illustration on the bottle was designed ​​by the artist duo Kuntzel + Deygas, who are also behind the advertising campaign for the fragrance. 

It is available in 100ml spray bottle and retails for 59 euros.




Monday, July 22, 2013

Shalimar Eau de Toilette






Shalimar Eau de Toilette c1980s. Peach colored box with an embossed zig zag pattern and gilded frame surrounded the perfume name and information. This is an unusual presentation and is not commonly seen up for sale.

photo by ebay seller doc1958


The footless Chauve Souris bottle was first used for Shalimar eau de toilette in 1995 and later was used for it's eau de cologne as well. The eau de toilette had a blue cap/stopper and the later versions of the eau de cologne had a frosted white cap/stopper.



Flacon Borne (Boundary Stone) c1931- 1960s

Flacon Borne (Boundary Stone) c1931- 1960s


Sunday, July 21, 2013

Flacon Amphore (Amphora) c1955-1982


Flacon Amphore (Amphora) c1955-1982

Used for extraits from 1955 til 1982. Also known as Flacon Ode as it was first used for the perfume Ode. The frosted and clear glass bottle is in the shape of an amphora with draped motifs and topped with a stopper molded in the shape of a rosebud. Some early bottles (1955) will have a gilded plastic rosebud screw top. Bottle made by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. I have also listed the most common and the most rare perfumes that can be found in this bottle.

Used for extraits of:
  • Shalimar (very common)
  • Jicky (very common)
  • Ode (very common)
  • Chant D'Aromes (very common)
  • Liu (very common)
  • L'Heure Bleue (very common)
  • Mitsouko (very common)
  • Chamade (very common)
  • Vol de Nuit (very common)
  • Sous Le Vent (scarce)
  • Une Fleur (rare)
  • Jasmin (rare)
  • Vetiver (very rare)
  • Dawamesk (extremely rare)
  • Fol Arome (extremely rare)
  • Coque D'Or (extremely rare)
  • Fleur de Feu (extremely rare)
  • Cuir de Russie (extremely rare)
  • Champs Elysees (extremely rare)
  • Kriss (extremely rare)
  • Rue de la Paix (extremely rare)
  • Guerlinade (extremely rare)
  • Une Rose (scarce)
  • Parure (scarce)
  • Atuana (rare)
  • Chypre 53 (extremely rare)
  • Heliotrope (scarce)
  • Kadine (extremely rare)
  • Pois de Senteur (scarce)
  • Mouchoir de Monsieur  (extremely rare)


Baccarat Flacons:
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 14,5cm/5.71" (1955)
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18,3cm/7.2" (1955)

Pochet et du Courval:
  • 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1959) ground glass rosebud shaped stopper, changed to plastic rosebud screwcap in 1978.
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1955): gilt ground glass rosebud stopper





Ode c1955, photo by thenonblonde blog


Mitsouko, photo by ebay seller sam_in_barbate

Chant d'Aromes, c1962, photo from ebay

Vol de Nuit, photo from worthpoint

Jasmin, 1950s, photo from worthpoint

L'Heure Bleue, photo from worthpoint





















Flacon Vinaigrier Ottoman (c1870s-1915?)

Flacon Vinaigrier Ottoman (c1870s-1915?)


Beautiful ancient amphora styled flacon, sometimes you may find this with enameled designs.

Extremely rare and exceptional bottle decanter-style "Vinaigrier Ottoman" colorless glass, molded, pressed cylindrical section, the lobed bulbous belly, high funnel neck, richly decorated with polychrome painted designs of oriental hand stopper olive red and blue painted richly accented with gold, created by Pochet et du Courval glassware. Model available at that time on special order. Stands 21 cm tall.












Flacon Abeilles (Bees) - c1828 - Present


Flacon Abeilles (Bees) - c1828 - Present



Selling Vintage Guerlain Perfumes

Are you a seller who wants to list vintage perfumes but don't know where to start?

Then you have come to the right place! I have been collecting vintage perfumes for many years and have also sold them on ebay for several years. I will discuss several things people look for when buying vintage perfumes and things a seller should add to their item descriptions.

If you are a seller, please read the following tips:

Dating your bottle:

Please bear in mind that your buyer is interested in how old the perfume is. If it dates to the 1920s, 1960s or even the 1990s or is newer, please make mention of it in your description. Many perfume bottles have been redeveloped throughout the years and knowing which year your bottle dates from may help in someone's quest for a particular bottle. If you have no idea on the age of your bottle, you can ask me thru my appraisal service or look thru any of my Guerlain flacon list guide : http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/p/guerlain-flacon-list.html

If you estimate the date of a bottle or set, be careful. The debut date for a fragrance only dates its first bottle or when the perfume was first launched. A perfume may have been reformulated and relaunched several times in its history. After that, magazine ads are one good way to estimate the decade. Bottle style, zip code (started in 1963), packaging styles, box shapes, label shapes, stopper shapes, and other clues will help you to date your bottle.

Manufacturer:

Who was the manufacturer? For instance, if Guerlain made your bottle of Shalimar tell your buyer. Sometimes, perfumes can have the same names, but different makers. Du Barry of England also sold products under the Shalimar name. Your buyer may be looking up that particular maker in a search. Some collectors only want to buy certain perfume bottles from particular perfume houses. Also, some counterfeit bottles and boxes have the maker or perfume name misspelt such as Gerlin or Shalima.


What type of bottle are you selling?

Is your perfume bottle an atomizer? An atomizer is a perfume that has the squeeze ball or has a spray mechanism. If your perfume has one, be sure to mention if your perfume is an atomizer/vaporizer/spray, because some people are looking for these. If your bottle does not spray then it is known as a splash bottle. Many of men's older eau de toilettes and older unisex colognes are splash type bottles. These were meant to be splashed on the skin liberally. Some famous splash bottles are the Shalimar parfum bottles known as the Chauve Souris, the quadrilobe bottles used for parfums, the Louis XVI bottles also used for parfums and others, the eau de toilette bottles known as the Flacon Goutte and the eau de cologne bottles known as the Flacon Montre.

Does your bottle have a dauber? The long stick thing at the end of a stopper that dips into the perfume is properly called a dauber (also known as a tigella--a rod, usually of glass and sometimes sculptured , attached to the underneath of a perfume bottle stopper for use as a dipper). It isnt called a dobber, dabber or wand.

If you are selling a tester...please say so in your listing! They are the same as the boxed versions. Why are they unboxed? Sometimes boxes can be damaged in transit, torn, stained or in less than perfect condition.

Some perfume bottles may be testers and must be pointed out when listing. Testers are even more discounted than the fancy boxed versions and are great if you don't have a need for the fancy packaging. Testers are 100% authentic, fresh and completely full just like the original, however they are meant for the usage at the counter at a department store. They ship in a plain brown or white box and sometimes don't have a cap on them.


Bottle Manufacturers:

Was the perfume bottle manufactured by a famous company? Companies like Lalique, Baccarat? Collectors are looking for these. Some of Guerlain's perfume bottles were manufactured by Lalique, Baccarat and Cristal Romesnil, so be sure to look for their marks on the bottom of your bottle. Be sure to mention if your piece is acid-stamped, specially if it says Made in France, Guerlain, Cristal Romesnil or Cristal Nancy, Baccarat, or Lalique. If the bottle is molded with SGD (Saint Gobain-Desjonqueres) or an entwined HP (Pochet et du Courval) please mention it. If your bottle is marked on the bottom, either acid stamped or molded, please include a picture of it for your buyers.


Overall Condition:

What is the overall condition? Are there any chips, scratches, fleabites, stains, or cracks? Chips along the mouth of the bottle or on the base of the stopper? If your bottle has been gilded, is there any wear to the gilding? Is dauber end snapped off the stopper? If your stopper is frozen in place, be sure to mention that when listing. Some buyers prefer if you do not disturb it, plus it will help when it comes time to ship the bottle. Describe defects honestly. Descriptions of defects on eBay are usually quite good - full disclosure seems to be the rule. Fleabites on stoppers, tears in labels, broken corners on set boxes, missing box tops, dings on bottle bottoms, and chips out of lips always need to be mentioned. How visible the defect is when the bottle is displayed is also helpful to mention.


Bottle Measurements & Glass Color:

What is the size of the bottle? Please make mention how tall the bottle is and the width. Some bottles may look big/small on the computer, but a buyer may be disappointed in how big/small it may be in person. Mention if the bottle is a mini perfume, a perfume sample vial or if it is a large factice (display bottle). A factice is a dummy/display bottle filled with colored water or colored alcohol. It does not contain any fragrance. Some of Guerlain's larger factices such as the ones for Shalimar might have colored glass instead of liquid inside. A factice will often have the word "dummy", "display" or "factice" engraved in the glass itself or printed, written or marked on the label.

Try to give the height of the bottle, or the dimensions of the box holding a set. The term "mini" is not very precise - it is used for a wide variety of sizes. Also, some collectors prefer not to buy very large bottles. By the way - I prefer not to see a ruler in the picture: it detracts from the beauty of the bottle or set and the numbers can be hard to see for someone who has vision problems or if the picture is too small or far away. 

Also be sure to mention what the amont of the fragrance is, in milliters or ounces, it should be stated on the box, the bottom or back of the bottle or label. If it is not, be sure to include measurements of the bottle.

How many milliliters are in an ounce?

Here is a quick conversion chart:
  • 1000 ml = 1 liter
  • 900 ml = 30 oz
  • 800 ml = 26 oz 
  • 700 ml = 23.6 oz
  • 600 ml = 20 oz
  • 500 ml = 18 oz
  • 450 ml = 16 oz
  • 400 ml = 14 oz
  • 350 ml = 12.3 oz
  • 300 ml = 10.5 oz
  • 250 ml = 8.8 oz
  • 200 ml = 7 oz
  • 150 ml = 5.2 oz
  • 100 ml = 3.3 or 3.4 oz
  • 90 ml = 3.2 oz
  • 80 ml = 2.9 oz
  • 75 ml = 2.5 oz
  • 60 ml = 2 oz
  • 50 ml = 1.6 or 1.7 oz
  • 30 ml = 1 oz
  • 15 ml = 1/2 oz
  • 10 ml = 1/3 oz
  • 7.5 ml = 1/4 oz
  • 5 ml = 1/6 oz
  • 3.7 ml = 1/8 oz = 1 dram
Note that all of these are approximate; strictly speaking, 1/2 oz is 14.787 ml. A standard perfume sample is in a 1/32 oz (1 ml) vial.


Describe important colors of the glass, label, or box, if they look wrong in your photo. Color rendering in photos is often hard to control; your description can explain away colors that are strange looking.


Labels:

What condition is the label in? This is very important as this adds or decreases the value of your bottle. For instance, is there any wear, fading, smudges, chipping? Is it a gold or silver foil label? Is it a metal label? Is the label missing or on the base? Is there enameled lettering on the bottle instead of a label? Does this have wear? Try to get close-ups so that a potential buyer can read the label and judge its condition. (Some digital cameras have separate settings for close-ups, look for a flower or tulip motif.) If you have glare on your label, or if the label is not readable in your photo, try to describe the quality of the label in your words. Tell buyers if the label is mint, smudged, rubbed off on certain letters, peeling, torn, etc.


Photos:

Make sure you have a photo of the item you are trying to sell. Do not use other people's photos of a similar bottle or stock photos unless the perfume is brand new. Names for specific bottle shapes, and exact dates for different styles of even well known brands and fragrances are not yet standardized.

Take good pictures! When taking pictures of commercial or colored glass perfume bottles, it is best to have a plain white background, this will show the true color of the glass, the juice, and any other important aspects. If you have a plain, clear glass bottle, shoot it with a black background and convert the photo to grayscale or black and white. It will show all the details in the glass beautifully! Do not use pictures that are blurry, too dark or if the item is too far away to make out details. 


Stoppers:

Does your bottle have a stopper or cap? If you have a ground glass stopper, make sure the stopper and the base go together. On fine French crystal bottles, numbers will be incised onto the base and the bottom of the stopper, this was done at the factory to show that the stopper was specifically ground to fit the base. The numbers should match! 

If your glass stopper has a plastic base, be sure to mention this in your listing as this helps to determine the age of the bottle.  Plastic (plastimeri) caps were put on the end of glass daubers starting in the early 1960s.

If your stopper isnt glass, mention if your cap is metal, plastic, Bakelite, celluloid, cork, etc. Mention if you have a screwcap. 

If your stopper is stuck, be sure to mention this in the listing. Don't attempt to use force to remove it, as you can snap the stopper right in half or crack the bottle. 

Try to use precise terms for the closure: "stoppers" insert into the mouth of the bottle; "caps" cover the mouth and are usually threaded. Even with a photo, describe the type of stopper. It's often impossible to tell from a photo if it is all glass ( = ground glass), glass in cork, glass covered in plastic (plastemeri), or glass with dauber, etc. Also, for older bottles, say if you judge a ground glass stopper to be the original by a tight fit with no obvious wobbling, also some bottles and stoppers will have matching numbers on the base.


Original Contents:

Are there any original contents in the bottle? If so,how much? The contents, or what we call the "juice". Do not under any circumstances pour out perfume, unless your buyer instructs you to do so. Many people wish to own bottles that still contain their original scents and haven't been opened. Perfumes generally sell higher if they are sealed.

 If your perfume is sealed, but looks like it has some missing, its most likely due to evaporation which can happen over the years due to storage conditions. Even if there is just a little amount, please let your buyers know. I usually give a percentage, like there is 20% of perfume left in the bottle. If your bottle is 7-10 years old or older, please tell your buyers, as the perfume will no longer be fresh in most cases. Is there perfume residue inside? Most bottles look beautiful with their juice inside, and I feel it completes the presentation. 

As a rule, you must be aware that all perfumes will start to degrade after around 3-5 years and this in turn causes the perfumes to "turn". They will develop a very strong alcohol odor or may turn a sour smell. Sometimes the top notes of a perfume may disappear or will be altered. This smell generally dissipates after a while and the heart and base notes of the original perfume will come out. If a perfume has been stored correctly, there is a chance it may still smell nice, though not as fresh as it one was.

How can I tell if a perfume has gone off? When its colour has changed, when it seems thicker or when the initial notes seem sour, almost ‘off’. As to when a perfume is "off," a change in color, especially a darkening, might signal deterioration. But not always. So trust your nose. If your perfume develops a bitter or sour note, it's time for a fresh bottle.

Each perfumes has a shelf life. Typically a perfume can last up to 18 months. If kept stored in a dark, cool place, it can prolong the life of a perfume. Perfume deteriorates from two factors: light and heat.

Oriental perfumes tends to have a longer shelf life than aldehydic, green, citrus perfumes. Orientals tend to be warm, ambery, vanillic and woody. 


If it is a parfum/extrait, your chances of it retaining its original scent are far greater than with a cologne or eau de toilette. However, some women have expressed that some vintage perfumes still smell wonderful. I myself have a perfume that is over 100 years old, and it smells fresh and spicy!


Can't I tell if I like a fragrance by sniffing the opened bottle or the spray nozzle? Not exactly. When you sniff an open bottle, your nose inhales the sharp bite of alcohol and the volatile top notes. A fragrance needs your skin to come alive. It blooms as it reacts with the warmth of your body to create a fragrance that is unique to you.

I don't want to try the fragrance on my skin, what other ways can I test it? Test on blotting paper or a tissue. It’s not as good as testing on your skin but it is the next best thing.


Presentation Boxes:

Is the original box present? If so, what condition is it in? Boxes are a definite help in selling vintage perfumes. Collectors like to display them together, be sure to include it in your pictures. Also, if there are any papers or other items included, please mention them.If selling a boxed set, be sure to show a photo of the front of the box, even if it has damage.


References:

Is this perfume bottle shown in any books you may have on perfume? If so, quote the book, author, page its on, and the book value. Remember, book values are only a guide, but many collectors would like to know if the bottle has any value, or they can look it up in their own books. A book reference can also help to identify a bottle that has lost its label or other identifying marks. Also reference websites, such as mine can often help as people refer to these often.


Packing & Shipping:

What is the best way to pack and ship your bottle? Packing and shipping perfume bottles is easy, be sure to wrap the stopper separate from the bottle to avoid breakage. I use styrofoam packing peanuts and small bubble-wrap to pack bottles. Please do not use newspaper as it is not a good cushion for the glass. I have recieved plenty of broken bottles in the mail because the seller used newspaper. Some buyers want their perfumes double boxed. 

 If the perfume bottle has juice in it, I usually put the stopper in place and then melt some beeswax around the edges of the stopper and mouth of the bottle (while it is in place) so that it will stay in place the juice will not escape during shipment. Just be careful you do not get any excess wax on the rest of the bottle or on the label! You can do this trick if your stopper is frozen too, just in case.Your buyer can scrape away any beeswax and wipe away any residue off with a soft cloth. I would email the buyer before shipment to see if they want the bottle sealed with the wax. 

Some might want just tape over the stopper. Do not get any tape on the label or gilding. I usually get a piece of paper big enough to cover the label, then put a piece of tape over that paper so that it does not touch the label. 

Or you could get a medicine dropper and decant the perfume into a small glass vial with a screw cap to ship inside the box, so that the perfume won't soil the label or box. ou should invest in some displosable plastic pipettes and some small glass vials if you plan on selling numerous perfumes. Do not use the same dropper for each perfume, these can mix and ruin the aroma of the perfume.

 Always insure the package and get delivery confirmation. If the bottle is over $100 you might want to get signature confirmation. You never know what will happen when the box leaves your hands at the post office--because YOU are responsible for getting the item in as described condition to the buyer, not the post office--so get insurance, its cheap enough for some piece of mind. I insure bottles no matter what the price.


How to List Your Perfume:

Use the word "perfume" in your title; colognes get fewer bids because fewer buyers search for that word. But try to be accurate in your descriptive text, especially if your bottle is really an Eau de Cologne, Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Toilet Water, Parfum/Extrait, etc. Do not continue to call it a perfume in the descriptive text if it is not, especially if the label is not readable in your photo unless you are unsure what the actual concentration is. Most fragrance bottle collectors consider the distinction to be quite important. True perfume bottles command higher prices.



What is the Difference between Perfume, EDC, EDP, EDT & Cologne? The differences are simply a matter of the amount or concentration of oils in the fragrance.

The highest concentration is in pure perfume (or parfum/extrait). Next would be Eau de Parfum, then Eau de Toilette, and finally Eau de Cologne. Some manufacturers make a solid perfume, solid perfume is as strong as a pure perfume however it is in a gel or wax-like consistency. Eau De Toilette and Eau De Cologne are generally interchangeable, especially in Men's fragrances. After Shave has the least amount of oils. The higher the concentration the longer your fragrance will last, and the less you need to apply.

You may also see the term Parfum de Toilette, this is rarely seen in the industry, but Guerlain did make them in the 1980s. This variation on perfume contains 90% strength. Most companies use this term to describe a concentration that is either the same as Eau De Parfum, or between Eau De Parfum and Parfum. Other companies use the term to describe an Eau De Toilette concentration.

Perfumers use different types of alcohols in their perfumes. Why? Alcohol makes the fragrance emanate from your skin. Without alcohol, you would be the only person who knew you were wearing any fragrance at all. Perfumer's alcohol is the professional diluent used to make fine perfumes, colognes, after shaves, eau de toilette and other alcohol-based fragrance products.

Parfum: also called extrait, is the highest concentration of perfume. A perfume may contain 22-30 percent oils and high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume. Any mixture lower in oils is known as an eau.

Eau de Parfum: is composed of 15-18 percent of essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water. Also known as parfum de toilette, eau de perfume or millésime (10 - 15% perfume oil) more than toilet water but a notch below parfum was created in the 1970's to circumvent taxation taxing extracts to 33% VAT.

Eau de Toilette: also called toilet water, is a much thinner dilution of the same materials, containing approximately only 4-8 percent of essential oils, in an even weaker alcohol and water mixture.

Eau de Cologne: for men or women, or aftershave, is further diluted, about 3-5 percent of essential oils, in an even still weaker alcohol and water mix.

Eau Fraiche: a cologne or splash with a purer alcohol.

Natural Spray: is a fragrance that uses a non-aerosol pump to emit a fine mist.

After Shaves: have a lighter scent, usually around 2 to 4 per cent, less alcohol (30 to 65 per cent) and  incorporate soothing emollients and calming antiseptics.

Moisturizing Skin Spray: a fragrance that is alcohol free and contains moisturizers to keep skin feeling soft and silky.

Creams and lotions: most creams contain a fragrance content that is same as that of the eau de toilette, five percent essential oils. The rest of the formula is a blend of lanolin, beeswax, mineral oil,lard, shea butter, cocoa butter, petroleum jelly, or other fats and oils.

Stick perfumes, pomades and solid perfume: an essential oil dissolved in wax, sometimes some other fats are blended in to make it easier to apply to the skin.

Soaps and soap products: composed of fatty acids and a small amount of essential oils.

Bath Oils: a combination of fifteen percent essential oils blended with mineral oil, lanolin, or other fatty oils of plant origin.

Bath salts: essential oils added to sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and sodium carbotage.

Bath powder: essential oils mixed with talc or cornstarch. The talc is ground very fine and is purified , sometimes supplemented with china clay and starches. It is then sifted through silk screens.


Use this easy chart
  • Splash or Aftershave (usually 1-3% perfume oil)
  • Eau de Cologne (2 - 5% perfume oil)
  • Eau Fraiche (Usually 3% or less perfume oil)
  • Eau de Toilette (4 - 10% perfume oil)
  • Eau de parfum, also called parfum de toilette, eau de perfume or millésime (10 - 15% perfume oil) more than toilet water but a notch below parfum was created in the 1970s to circumvent taxation taxing extracts to 33% VAT.
  • Soie de Parfum (15 - 18% perfume oil)
  • Parfum or Pure Perfume (15 - 25% -- also sometimes referred to as extract, absolue, intense, elixir or extrait) Perfume oil (15-30% perfume oil in an oil rather than alcohol base)


The intensity and longevity of a perfume is based on the concentration, intensity and longevity of the aromatic compounds (natural essential oils / perfume oils) used: As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent created. Different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. Therefore, although the oil concentration of a perfume in Eau de Parfum (EdP) dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in Eau de Toilette (EdT) from within the same range, the actual amounts can vary between perfume houses. An EdT from one house may be stronger than an EdP from another.

Men's fragrances are generally colognes or eau de toilettes and are rarely as EdP or perfume extracts. As well, women's fragrances are rarely sold in EdC concentrations except for Guerlain, Coty, Dana, etc). Although this gender specific naming trend is common for assigning fragrance concentrations, it does not directly have anything to do with whether a fragrance was intended for men or women.

Furthermore, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only differ in their dilutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EdT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EdP, the EdT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or fewer base notes. In some cases, words such as "extrême", "intense" or "concentrée", that might indicate aromatic concentration are sometimes completely different fragrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord. An example of this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée.

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Guerlain perfume atomizer set c2013

Guerlain perfume atomizer set c2013,one is a silvertone, the other is goldtone, they also come with small velous pouches and a small goldtone funnel.


photos byebay seller ioulia1978

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Guerlain c1893


Town Topics, the Journal of Society, Volume 29, 1893:
" My dear Lena, you asked me to see about some small articles de toilette. So I went to Guerlain's and this is what he suggests for you. An etui of Pyrommee for the eyes, it certainly makes one's eyes look better and is quite harmless. It contains a little India rubber tampon that you pass gently under and over your eyelashes, but before using it blow off the black that is too thick or you will have too much on and look as if you had two lovely black eyes. It undoubtedly gives brilliancy to the eyes and does not show in the least. I use it as well for my eyebrows, the least little soupcon and I am sure you have never noticed it. To keep your powder on there is one famous article from Guerlain's called Creme Patti. The Comtesse de B. always uses it and she is certainly the best arranged woman in France. You put it on all over your face and rub it well in. Don't think it is greasy for it is not. Her face never looks hot or greasy. Then you wipe it off with a soft towel and put your powder on lightly. If you want any rouge and if you are feeling tired or ill it is sometimes necessary try lip salve on your cheeks tout bonnement and a little powder on the top of it. Rouge gives such a hard expression I think whereas lip salve no one can see. I defy them to find you out and one hates one's little secrets to be revealed to the world. I ordered you yards of heliotrope flannel to put in the wardrobes and also on your bodies as sachet powder invariably comes out and makes a dust. A new perfume called "Nice Dear", I thought irresistible. In France we adopt a perfume and stick to it. One's scent is really part of one's self l am sure you will like "Nice Dear" enough to wish not to change again and that you will find with the Creime Patti and the Poudre de Blanc de Perles, the lip salve and the black for your eyes time and Weather are naught to you Lena dear I swear secrecy no torture could wrench this secret from my lips."

Rouge D'Enfer by Guerlain c1920

Rouge d'Enfer....a lipstick by Guerlain.....c1920. It was item #50 in the Guerlain product catalog.

 Description by Guerlain:
"Perfectly matching the style of the 1920s, the fun and precious Rouge d'Enfer lipstick was returned to its original position inside the case by pulling on a tassel (patent registered in 1924)."

Sunday Times (Perth, WA : 1902 - 1954), Sunday 27 June 1926:
"Guerlain, the great perfumer, has just put out a new case for rouge. The cover of this case is provided with a double loop of silk; on lifting the cover, the rouge is brought to the desired height, and after using it one lightly pulls the end of the loop opposite to the cover, and the rouge sinks into the box. It is a very recent novelty of which we have tried to give the first news to our readers."




Guerlain's Scented Flannel For Dali In Venice

"In 1961, Salvador Dalí and Maurice Béjart created the ballet Gala , preceded by a baroque opera by Gonfalioneri: La Dame espagnole et le chevalier romain . The show, conceived as "théâtre total", was performed in 1961 at La Fenice in Venice and a few months later in the Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie in Brussels and Paris in 1962.

Despite the historic importance of Maurice Béjart and his innovations in choreography, and the importance of this historic collaboration between two major innovators of the 20 th century, no study has ever explored this event whose principal dancer was the famous ballerina La Tcherina. This remarkable artistic creation was also multi-sensorial: the first performance ever to use perfume as the main scenographic element. A renowned partner cooperated in this project: the French Maison Guerlain designed the perfume Nébuleuse specifically for this occasion, at Dalí's request. The name of the perfume is related to Gala's name, the wife of the painter. Big barrels of perfume were installed on the stage, and were representing the essence of femininity. Men on wheelchairs would pull perfume through long vertical crutches which acted as pulleys."

The barrels were filled with a perfumed liquid specially prepared by Guerlain to produce weird geometric soap bubbles.

The perfume was used to mask the odor of the rotting carcass that was a feature of the production.

Dali's staff came to an arrangement with Guerlain, the French perfume manufacturer, that in return for generous publicity for their expensive product the theatre would be sprayed with their most exquisite perfume.

Also, Decca Records wanted to include some sort of scented product along with the record of the performance which would heighten the listener's enjoyment. They thought of the decaying carcass, but on second thought, realized that it would be tricky to manufacture, a record that emanated this type of scent. Sensing another way to publicly advertise their perfumes, Guerlain decided to include a flannel sachet scented with Vol de Nuit perfume that was said to be used in the stage presentation to be packaged along with the record, at no extra charge to Decca. Instructions for the flannel stated: " In this envelope you will find a flannel to scent your lingerie."

A Day in the life of a wealthy Parisian Lady


A Day in the life of a wealthy Parisian Lady, according to Grace Hummel:

A fashionable Parisian lady during the 19th century may have used Guerlain's perfumed vinegars to scent her apartment with the Vinaigrillon Seville, which she could also use to heal cuts or sores on her body.

The lady would have also used Guerlain's famous Savon Sapoceti, a rich soap, made up of whale blubber to cleanse her body and whiten the skin. It could be had in either a jasmine, ylang ylang, frangipani, heliotrope, benzoin, acacia, verbena, gardenia, honey or rose, or even one of Guerlain's special perfumed blends, Fleurs de Alpes, Huile d'Amande, or Marcehal Duchesse.

A long soak infused with L'Amidon de Guimauve, a starch made from the marshmallow plant, would have softened the bath water.

When she wanted to remove superfluous hair on her face, neck or arms, she could mix some of Guerlain's Epilotoire with a bottle of its Prepared Water to create a hair removing paste.

After bathing and depilating her unwanted hair, she may have dusted her body with Poudre d'Amande in a cloud of pulverised almonds.

To cleanse her face she may have used Laits d'Iris ou de Concombres, a cucumber and iris infused milk from a glass bottle, followed by the citron based astringent, L'Essence de Cedrat or Eau de Pearl to tone her skin and shrink her pores.

By massaging Crème à la Fraise, in a white porcelain jar with a small strawberry molded on the lid, or Creme Emolliente au Suc de Concombres, a cucumber cream, from white porcelain jar, this would moisturize and freshen her face.

To lighten her skin's complexion she may have used some Lotion de Golwond, or the cold cream made up of snails, Creme Froide de Limaçons or the pearly white cream of Blanc de Perles. If she had a blemish a little dab of Creme Camphrea, a so called miracle cream, from a tin pot would help, it was promoted to make your skin look like one of the porcelain dolls from your childhood.

Before bed, she may have slathered on a night cream, possibly Creme Lenitive, an analgesic cream to smooth the skin and to make to maintain its elasticity, and to fade age spots or freckles, she would use Creme Patti or Creme Nivea, both from white porcelain jars.

To clean her teeth, she would use Tresor de la Bouche, a vegetable powder based tooth powder she would moisten with water, it was advertised as preventing tooth decay and would not harm the enamel on the teeth.

To ensure that her mouth was freshened, she would have swished with either L' Elixir de Guerlain, a balsamic antiseptic mouthwash to keep her gums and teeth strong and healthy, or Alcoolat Cochlearia et de Cresson, a watercress infused mouthwash..

To give her complexion a little color, she may apply Serkis de Sultanas, the secret formula of the harem queens. This would be followed by a dusting of Poudre de Lys or Poudre de Cypris culled from its decorated cardboard box with a swansdown puff to cut down on the shine and give her an alabaster like complexion.

To bring a natural glow to her visage, she may have rubbed a little liquid blush, Bloom of Roses on her cheeks with a cotton ball, or swiped a little powdered Rouge au Carmin de Chine or Rouge de Damas on the apples of her cheeks which was pressed into a small glass mortar decorated with gold.

A genteel lady would have used Roselip, a lightly rose tinted lip balm housed in a tiny Sevres porcelain pot, but a more adventurous lady may have applied a little Rose du Moulin, a rosy lip colour with her finger from a small green glass tub or Extrait de Rose from a glass bottle.

The more daring woman may have even lined her eyes with La Pyrommee, an Arabian styled kohl powder for the eyes kept inside an ivory tube decorated with an eye motif. Advertising of the era told a story that Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain learned the secret formula from an Armenian Pasha who gave it to the ladies of his harem

To keep her body moisturized and supple throughout the day, she may have rubbed on some Creme Nivea to her arms and legs and during winter or harsh, windy weather, when her skin needed more protection, a thicker emollient the Cold Cream of Roses would have made sense.

If she was a nursing mother, she may have applied Baume de la Ferte, a balm made from the tannins in Bordeaux wine, benzoin, beeswax and almond oil, to soothe her chapped nipples, the antiseptic qualities of the benzoin and wine tannins would promote healing.Years later in the 20th century, the formula for this balm would be used to restore flexibility to the lips.

She may have then used Crème de Perse to soften her hands, removed her cuticles with Pate d'Amande au Miel, a honey and almond paste, and applied a little Huile de Rosat to give a rosy gloss to her nails..

Her hair would be cleansed with L'Eau de China, to condition her hair, she would have used the Veritable Moelle de Boeuf, a pomade made up of beef marrow to promote hair growth.

To complete her hairdressing, then she would have applied some l'Eau Lustrale, a liquid hair groom which would have gave it a lustrous shine. A touch of Grasse d'Ours Liquefiee, a pomade made of bear's grease, would help keep that jaunty cowlick from popping out from her coiffure in addition to strengthening and prevent color fading of the hair.

Before heading outside she may have applied Pate a L'Huile d'Amandes de Pistache, a pistachio paste made with almond oil, to make skin supple or  Creme Huvé de la Providence to her face to protect it from the sun's rays.

Her toilette would be complete with a splash of Esterhazy Bouquet, a cologne rumord to have aphrodisiacal qualities was a blend of orange blossom, rose, vetiver and vanilla. Her copy of Le Journal des Elegances, a fashionable magazine of the time, even had its pages of a special edition sprinkled with the famed essence.


Photo used in this article courtesy of Rago Arts.

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Shalimar: Bouchon Coeur Flacon

Flacon Bouchon Coeur (Heart Stopper Bottle) c1925- ?


Flacon originally created to house extraits of L'Heure Bleue, Fol Arome and Mitsouko. Later used for special edition fragrances such as Le Petite Robe Noir, Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus, Shalimar. Flacon created by Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval,Verreries Brosse, Cristalleries de Nancy and possibly Cristal Romesnil. Designed by Raymond Guerlain in collaboration with Baccarat. I am unsure as to when the bottle was used for Shalimar, it was most likely a limited edition presentation.

Baccarat
  • 40ml/1.35 oz - 9,5cm/3.74" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 80ml/2.7 oz - 11,8cm/4.65" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 125ml/4.2 oz - 13,8cm/5.43" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 250ml/8.4 oz - 16,5cm/6.5" (1912, updated edition in1947)
  • 500ml/16.9 oz - 20cm/7.87" (1912, updated edition in 1947)
  • 1 liter/1000ml - 24,5cm/9.65" (1912, updated edition in 1947)

Other manufacturers:
  • 7,5ml/1.25 oz - 6cm/2.36" (1984) : plastic stopper
  • 10ml/0.388 oz - (1954) : ground glass stopper
  • 15ml/0.5 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1979) : plastic stopper
  • 20ml/0.676 oz - 8,2cm/3.23" (1935) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic in 1968
  • 30ml/1 oz - 9,2cm/3.62" (1924) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic in 1960
  • 50ml/1.7 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1930) : ground glass stopper
  • 60ml/2 oz - 13,4cm/5.28" (1962) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic
  • 85ml/2.87 oz - (1911) : changed to 80ml in 1929
  • 125ml/4.2 oz - (1911)
  • 250ml/8.4 oz - (1911)
  • 500ml/16.9 oz - (1911)



Shalimar: Montre Flacon

Flacon Montre (Watch Bottle) c1936-1999

Starting in 1936, Shalimar came in a round, disk shaped eau de cologne bottle with a cone shaped stopper. This is called the Montre, or watch bottle. Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de cologne, first used with Cachet Jaune in 1936, also held various other scents such as Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, Fol Arome, Chamade, Chant D'Aromes, Liu, L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Sous Le Vent, Chypre 53, Parure and more.




Shalimar: Flacon de Guerre and Flacon Borne

Shalimar was housed in the so-called Flacon de Guerre (Wartime Bottle) from 1938-1945.

Pochet et du Courval created this bottle to house extraits of Shalimar, Jicky, Guerlinade, Fleur de Feu, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Liu, Vague Souvenir, Champs Elysees, Tsao-Ko, Geranium d'Espagne, Jasmiralda, Lilas, Bouquet de Faunes, Guerlilas, Gavotte, Coque d'Or, Imperial Russe, Fleur Qui Meurt, Gardenia,  and others.
  • 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz (1939-1945)
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945)
  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945)
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945)
  • 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1938-1945)
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945)
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945)
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)




 




Shalimar was also housed inside the Flacon Borne (Boundary Stone Bottle) from 1931-1945. The World War II version is all clear glass, without the blue band down the center.

Made by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits of Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Liu, Jicky, Sillage and others.

  • 82cc/82ml/2.7 oz - 10,5cm/4.13" (1931), ground blue glass truncated stopper in the shape of a French policeman's hat.




Shalimar: Quadrilobe Flacon

For a short time in the 1940s, Shalimar was launched in Guerlain's original squatty rectangular bottle with the mushroom stopper, called the bouchon quadrilobe, manufactured by Baccarat. The bottle came housed in a green box with Art Nouveau like gilded designs of stylized lotus flowers.

Flacon quadrilobe was made by various manufacturers such as Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval and Cristalleries de Nancy to hold extraits for various perfumes. Some later bottles hold eaux de toilette or eaux de parfum.

The labels are the standard Shalimar style. Guerlain may have released special editions over the years in different sizes, compare your bottle to the measurements and dates below to accurately date your bottle.

  • 7.5ml/1.25 oz - 5cm/1.97" (1980) : plastic stopper
  • 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5,6cm/2.2" (1954) : ground glass stopper
  • 15ml/0.5 oz - 6,3cm/2.48" (1979) : plastic stopper
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1951) : ground glass stopper
  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 8cm/3.15" (1924) : ground glass stopper changed to updated edition plus plastic stopper in 1962
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 8,5cm/3.35" (1949) : ground glass stopper
  • 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 9,5cm/3.74" (1962) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic stopper
  • 80ml/2.7 oz - 9,7cm/3.82"
  • 125ml/4.2 oz - 11,5cm/4.53" (1978 ): plastic stopper
  • 250ml/8.4 oz - 13,8cm/5.43" (1979) : plastic stopper
  • 500ml/16.9 oz - 17cm/6.69" (1979) : plastic stopper
  • 1 liter/1000ml - 22,5cm/8.86" (1979) : plastic stopper



Beat the Heat Guerlain Style!

In 1986, Guerlain advised a way to beat the summer heat with a simple, yet luxurious recipe. 

  • Draw a warm bath, add three drops of perfumed bath oil, and soak your body for five minutes. 
  • Lather your body with any of their scented soaps, and rinse well. 
  • Dry off and rub a few dollops of their posh body lotion into your skin. 
  • Follow up with a few dashes of silky soft talcum powder or dusting powder. 
  • Enjoy!

Monday, July 15, 2013

Shalimar: Chauve Souris Flacons

Please note that this is an updated blog post of my original from 2010 which was found on my defunct website guerlainperfumes.webs.com. All photos and information was gathered at that time and published in 2010. Many of my collages and informative photos have been repurposed by other websites (not my own) and do not give credit to where they got them (my blog). In 2013, I had made the move to blogspot, so all previously published articles are now found here - with most being updated with any new info.




Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat) c1924- present

Shalimar extrait de parfum was presented in several different flacons over the years, and all bottles will have a gilded batwing shaped label. The oldest design is its original one from 1925, the urn shaped flacon, called the "Chauve Souris" by Baccarat (#597).


Shalimar Secret de Parfum c2002 Limited Edition Bottle

Shalimar Secret de Parfum by Guerlain: launched in 2002 as a limited edition flacon for Shalimar, it was titled "Shalimar Secret de Parfum". The tall, cylindrical, modern styled blue glass splash bottle held 1 oz of eau de parfum and was topped off by the familiar blue fan stopper. The juice has not been changed, it is the same Shalimar eau de parfum.



Shalimar - Black Mystery Bottle c2007

Shalimar 'Black Mystery' by Guerlain: launched in 2007, as limited edition collector's flacons for the Christmas holiday. Guerlain housed Shalimar parfum in a black Baccarat crystal flacon and the Shalimar Eau de Parfum in black glass spray bottle. There has not been a change to the formula for either concentration.

From Guerlain:

Among the most prominent and legendary fragrance in history, Shalimar was created as an ode to love. To recapture that magical feeling, Guerlain reinterpreted the Shalimar legend, with a nod to designer Philippe Starck. Much like his famed black crystal Baccarat chandelier, the latest offering from the Shalimar family is a modern rare jewel. Crafted of smoky black crystal with burnished gold accents, the beloved oriental scent of Bergamot, Iris, Vanilla and Amber finds a new home in this mysterious and striking flacon.




Shalimar c2006 Christmas Limited Edition

Christmas Limited edition packaging for Shalimar, the juice remains the same.

This fragrance eternal, the most beautiful evocative tale of thousand and one nights, still marvel.

Nestled in a gorgeous bottle, filter the mythical heart of jasmine, fresh bergamot and daring enveloping sensuality of vanilla, dressed in gold and blue as a sapphire for the occasion. 

Shalimar by Guerlain, € 83 retail. Eau de Parfum 75 ml spray.

Shalimar 80th Anniversary Années Folles Limited Edition Bottle c2005

In 1925, Jacques Guerlain created Shalimar, the perfume that reinvented the world of fragrance and signaled the birth of the Oriental fragrance family. To celebrate 80 years of Shalimar, the House of Guerlain has created a bottle reminiscent of the Art Deco era that embodies the style of the Roaring Twenties

Shalimar for Women by Guerlain Eau de Parfum Spray 2.5 oz - 80th Anniversary Limited Edition Années Folles Collector Bottle. 

The bottle has a transparent gold finish on the glass and a gilded foil label.  Only the packaging is different, the juice stayed the same.