Historical Powders & Rouge

Aux Bon Vieux Temps c1890

Au Bon Vieux Temps, launched in 1890 by Jacques Guerlain, is a name steeped in sentimentality and rich, nostalgic imagery. Translated from French, Au Bon Vieux Temps means "In the Good Old Times." This phrase immediately conjures a longing for the past, for an era of elegance, tradition, and simpler, more gracious living. By naming the perfume this way, Guerlain taps into the collective yearning for the romance of a bygone era—a time when life was more measured, and beauty was found in the everyday, such as in the scent of potpourri wafting through homes or the musk-soaked fabrics of the previous century.

The name evokes the warmth and comfort of a time when homes were adorned with sweet jars filled with dried flowers, herbs, and spices, known as potpourri. These jars released gentle, lingering scents throughout rooms, making them a constant presence in the domestic life of the 18th and early 19th centuries. Potpourri was a means of keeping the home fragrant, long before modern perfumes or air fresheners existed. The scent of potpourri was often layered with spices, dried petals, and herbs, delivering a rich, earthy aroma that could be sweet and spicy or powdery and floral, depending on the blend. This nostalgic connection to the home, with the comforting smells of potpourri, would have resonated with women of the late 19th century, particularly as they navigated a rapidly changing world.

Au Bon Vieux Temps would be interpreted in scent as a return to these comforting, familiar smells—those of leather-bound books, musky perfumes, and richly decorated interiors. It likely captured the essence of a room filled with potpourri jars, combining woody, musky, and sweet floral notes in a way that invoked a sense of warmth, stability, and timelessness. For women of the time, this perfume would represent a connection to their heritage, recalling the old-world charm of grand homes, lush gardens, and the slower pace of life from their mothers' and grandmothers' generations. It would embody a sense of elegance rooted in tradition, and wearing such a fragrance would be a way to express refinement and an appreciation for the past.

The perfume was launched at the cusp of the Belle Époque, a period in French history from the late 19th century into the early 20th century, known for its cultural flourishing, technological advances, and artistic innovation. Though forward-looking, the Belle Époque also had a strong sense of nostalgia for the past, particularly for the aesthetics and customs of earlier centuries. During this period, there was a great fascination with the opulence and elegance of the 18th century, which influenced everything from fashion to interior design, and Au Bon Vieux Temps would have fit neatly into this trend of romanticizing the past.

Un Air de Samsara c1995

Un Air de Samsara: launched in 1995.  It was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain as a lighter and fresher version of the successful oriental perfume 'Samara'.

Rex by Guerlain c1890s

Rex by Guerlain, launched in the 1890s, carries with it a name steeped in regal symbolism. The word "Rex" is Latin for "king," a simple yet powerful word that evokes a sense of authority, grandeur, and legacy. Guerlain’s choice of this name was deliberate, reflecting the continued influence and admiration of monarchy and aristocracy during this time, as well as an allusion to one of its earlier fragrances, Bouquet du Roi (King’s Bouquet). In renaming the fragrance "Rex," Guerlain not only modernized the earlier creation but also amplified its association with royalty and prestige, aligning the perfume with the grandeur of kingship.

The word "Rex" conjures images of royal courts, gilded palaces, and stately ceremonies. It evokes feelings of power, grace, and nobility, bringing to mind the opulence and dignity associated with monarchy. In scent, "Rex" would be interpreted as something deeply luxurious, possibly rich and layered with notes that symbolize strength and refinement—perhaps rich woods like sandalwood or cedar, deep spices, and subtle floral accords like iris or violet, which often signify elegance and royalty in perfumery. It would be a fragrance that commands attention and evokes respect, much like the presence of a king.

For women of the 1890s, a perfume called "Rex" would have symbolized a connection to aristocratic elegance and sophistication. This was a period when monarchies and noble titles still held considerable sway over society, and the idea of royalty was deeply admired. Women who wore Rex would likely feel an air of distinction and privilege, imagining themselves stepping into the shoes of queens or noblewomen. The name alone would suggest that the wearer was someone of importance, or at the very least, someone who desired to embody the grace and power associated with royalty.

The time period of the 1890s was one of transition, as Europe still maintained many monarchies, even while democratic movements gained traction. Guerlain, a house rooted in tradition and famed for its perfumes tailored to the tastes of the elite, continued to create fragrances that appealed to royalty and nobility. This was the era of the Belle Époque, a period of flourishing art, culture, and fashion in Paris. The wealthy upper classes, including European royalty, were still influential arbiters of taste, and luxurious fragrances were essential to their image.

By naming the fragrance Rex, Guerlain reinforced its ties to nobility, continuing a tradition of serving royalty and aristocrats. The brand had already established itself as a favorite among elite circles, having created perfumes for Empress Eugénie and other royal figures. Guerlain understood the importance of maintaining this connection with the upper echelons of society, where opulence, status, and tradition were still highly valued. At the same time, Rex could also appeal to the aspirational classes, as it represented a touch of regal luxury that symbolized power and exclusivity in a period where many people still admired and sought to emulate the elegance of nobility.

Guerlain Cosmetics & Skincare c1960s-1970s

Strange Shalimar Perfume Bottle c1970s

I came across this unusual vintage Shalimar extrait bottle on ebay a few weeks ago and felt it was highly suspect. I have never seen this bottle shape before in any Guerlain advertising and wondered if perhaps it was a well crafted vintage fake or if it was an item made only for sale in the United States or Canada.


The Shalimar label on the bottle is askew and just looks weird. The bottle sits inside of a cardboard insert. There is a weird little sign underneath the bottle of which I have never seen before. There is a price of $35.00 printed on the box where the Ref # (Catalog #) should be.

The price would be about right for the time period for a 1 oz bottle as it was retailing for $30 in 1973 and the price went up to $40 and ounce in 1976.

Why would extrait be housed in this ugly bottle. It appears that it could be used for travel.

Click Here to see the weird Shalimar bottle

Stilboide Fluide

Stilboide Fluide was a liquid hair groom and beard groom scented with various Guerlain fragrances over the years. It was also made "to maintain the curl of the so-called English papillotes." Papillotes was paper that was used to curl the hair, and thus the curly hair obtained with this method is known as "papillotes."

 Stilboide Fluid is similar to brilliantine and was mainly an alcohol mixture scented with perfume oils. You might come across these today and notice that the contents have separated leaving the alcohol mixture at the bottom of the bottle while the scented oils rose to the top of the bottle.

I found an ad for the Stilboide Fluide as early as 1875.

1875 ad

Some of the earliest Stilboide Fluid scents were:

• Bouquet
• Chypre
• Coq Gaulois
• Derniere Cri
• Des Pages
• Fragrans
• Heliotrope
• Jicky
• Makis
• New Mown Hay
• Pepita
• Rex
• Simplex
• Sornette
• Violette
• Ylang Ylang

Stilboide Fluide was available in the following scents:

• Champs Elysees
• Cuir de Russie
• Guerlilas
• Hegemonienne
• Jicky
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Shalimar
• Sous Le Vent
• Vague Souvenir
• Vol de Nuit

Colored Crystal Quadrilobe Bottles

In 2016, Guerlain introduced a line of limited edition crystal quadrilobe flacons in dazzling jewel like colors, inspired by the principle of synesthesia (the idea that color has a scent). Dubbed the Color Collection it is comprised of five bottles, each decorated with the fluffed barbichage tassel performed by hand by the Dames du Table. Each bottle retails for 650,00 €.

Looking to buy someone a personal gift? These bottles can also represent the various birthstones and would make an appropriate present for someone's birthday or anniversary.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille is housed in a fiery shade evocative of a Padparadscha sapphire.

The Padparadscha and blue sapphires correspond to the month of September and the Taurus zodiac sign.

Incidentally, the sapphire is given as a 65th wedding anniversary.

Santal Royal is housed in a verdant emerald green bottle.

Emerald is the birthstone for May, the stone for the star sign Cancer and is the traditional gift for a 20th wedding anniversary.

L'Heure de Nuit is dressed in the finest shade akin to a blue Kashmir sapphire.

The sapphire corresponds to the birth month of September and the stone for Taurus.

The sapphire is also a traditional gift for a 45th wedding anniversary.

Oriental Brulant is presented in a crystal flacon of the precious pigeon blood red Burmese ruby.

The ruby is representative of the month of July and is the stone for Capricorn.

The ruby is also given as a present for a 40th wedding anniversary.

L’Eau de Parfum du 68 is contained in a bicolor crystal shade recalling the purple and deep yellow of the ametrine (amethyst & citrine).

Though ametrine itself is not a birthstone it can be considered the birthstone of February, the birthstone of November or the Pisces birthstone because it is part amethyst, part citrine.

It could also be given for the 6th (amethyst) and 13th (citrine) wedding anniversaries.



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Muguet Millesime c2016

Muguet Millesime 2016: launched in 2016. Created by Thierry Wasser.

From Guerlain:

"Every year since 2006, the Exclusive Muguet Eau de Toilette by Guerlain blossoms anew on 1st May in a luxurious numbered limited edition..A wonderful gift idea for a loved one."

Shalimar Souffle de Parfum Collector Flacon c2016

Shalimar Souffle de Parfum Collector Flacon: launched in 2016 as a limited edition collector's bottle, the fragrance remains the same.

Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita c2016

Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita by Guerlain: launched in 2016.

Musc by Guerlain c1833

Musc by Guerlain, launched in 1833 and crafted by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, was a bold and evocative fragrance. The name "Musc," derived from the French word for "musk," immediately conjures images of sensuality, warmth, and raw natural allure. Musk, originally sourced from the gland of the musk deer, was prized for its deep, animalic quality, which conveyed a sense of both mystery and intimacy. In scent, the name "Musc" suggests an enveloping, velvety richness—a perfume that is seductive, warm, and deeply resonant. Its animalic nature evokes primal instincts while maintaining an air of refined elegance.

The word "Musc" evokes emotions tied to sensuality and power, blending the natural with the luxurious. In the 19th century, women would have likely viewed a perfume called "Musc" as daring and sophisticated. Musk was associated with the exotic and the rare, making it an ingredient that would appeal to those seeking to enhance their allure and command attention. Women of the time, living in an era when fragrance was integral to personal expression, would have embraced Musc for its ability to add an element of mystique to their presence.

The time period in which Musc was launched was marked by the early stages of the Industrial Revolution, a period of rapid growth, innovation, and change. In this context, perfume played a significant role in society, particularly among the upper classes, as a marker of wealth, sophistication, and personal taste. The Romantic movement in art and literature, with its emphasis on emotion, nature, and sensuality, also influenced perfumery, making fragrances like Musc highly desirable for their ability to evoke deep feelings and connections with the natural world.

At the time of Musc’s introduction, perfumers were still relying on natural ingredients such as extracts, infusions, and tinctures. The composition of Musc would have likely involved blending these natural animalics with floral notes to soften and round out its intensity, creating a balance between the rawness of musk and the grace of flowers. As the 19th century progressed, the introduction of synthetic molecules began to transform perfumery, allowing for even more intricate and long-lasting compositions. Though Musc would have originally been crafted with the purest natural materials, later versions may have incorporated synthetics, enhancing its ability to linger on the skin while still preserving its sensual essence.

Guerlain’s Musc stood out as an embodiment of the era’s fascination with both the natural world and human emotions, offering a fragrance that combined the best of both worlds—animalic warmth and floral elegance. For women of the 19th century, it would have represented a perfect balance between sophistication and seduction.

Guerlain Rarities 4/5/2016 - 4/12/2016

Vintage Djedi Parfum Bottle and Box

Click here to see the DJEDI auction

Vintage Guerlain Shalimar 4.2oz Extrait Perfume No. 91 Unopened Bottle

Click here to see the SHALIMAR auction

Les Coeurs de Chamade Limited Edition Set:

Click here to see the LES COEURS DE CHAMADE auction

Fol Arome 8.4 oz Extrait

Click here to see the FOL AROME auction

Guerlain Rarities 3/14 - 3/21

Very rare antique Guerlain Musc Parfum in Carre Flacon. 10.3 cm.

Vintage "Dawamesk" by Guerlain, Baccarat Crystal bottle. Height : 10 cm (4 inches). 80 ml.

Rare huge vintage "Fol Arôme" by Guerlain, Baccarat crystal perfume bottle. Height : 16,5 cm (6 1/2 inches). 250 ml. 

Rare vintage "Fleur de Feu" by Guerlain, glass perfume bottle. Height : 13,8 cm (5 1/2 inches). 40 ml.

Vintage 1960s acrylic display stand for Chant D'Aromes.  It is 9-3/4" tall and 8-1/2" across.

Le Bouquet de la Reine c2016

Le Bouquet de la Reine by Guerlain: launched in 2016.

Created by Thierry Wasser as a limited edition to be sold only through subscription from February 17, 2016 until May 17, 2016. Funds collected from the sale of this perfume will help with the restoration of the royal apartments in the Palace of Versailles in France.

La Petite Robe Noire Makeup Line

The continuing success of La Petite Robe Noire has spawned flanker scents, collectible bottles, hair mist, shimmer powder and now...a makeup line! The little black dress inspired line the brand's Director of Makeup Design, Olivier Echaudemaison to create a wide selection of lip and nail colors which will be launched in February.

Promenade des Anglais c2016

Promenade des Anglais by Guerlain: launched in 2016 as part of the Les Parisiennes line. Interpreted as "a chic escape in Provence."

Ambre Eternel c2016

Ambre Éternel by Guerlain: to be launched in January 2016. Created by Thierry Wasser as a companion piece to Santal Royal. These are part of a new fragrance series called "Les Absolus d'Orient", a name which Guerlain trademarked on Oct 29, 2015. The next fragrance in this series may be Oud Essentiel, as Guerlain trademarked this name on Dec 1, 2015.