Chypre de Paris by Guerlain c1909

Chypre de Paris by Guerlain, launched in 1909, carries a name rich in cultural and olfactory significance. The word "chypre" is French for Cyprus, evoking the island known for its natural beauty and the raw materials historically used in perfumes. Chypre perfumes are defined by a contrast between fresh citrus top notes and deeper, earthier base notes like oakmoss and labdanum. Guerlain's choice to pair "Chypre" with "Paris" in the fragrance's name reflects a fusion of the exotic and the cosmopolitan, situating the fragrance within the heart of Parisian sophistication and timeless elegance.

The name Chypre de Paris would evoke images of the Mediterranean's sun-soaked coasts, combined with the modern, fashionable atmosphere of Paris. The scent likely conjured feelings of luxury, adventure, and refinement, appealing to women who wanted a fragrance that felt worldly yet distinctly French. In interpreting the fragrance, one might imagine a blend of zesty citrus and warm, mossy undertones—an aroma that felt at once fresh and grounding, much like the balance between nature and urbanity that the name suggests.

 

For women in 1909, a perfume named Chypre de Paris would have resonated deeply. At this time, chypre fragrances were becoming more popular, offering a sophisticated alternative to the heavier, more ornate perfumes that dominated earlier decades. A fragrance like this would have felt modern yet rooted in tradition, appealing to women who sought to embody the elegance and forward-thinking spirit of the era. Paris, as the epicenter of fashion and luxury, was the ideal setting for such a scent, offering both a nod to heritage and a statement of contemporary style.

The early 20th century was a time of great change in perfumery. Guerlain, with its legacy of creating luxurious and innovative scents, had already dabbled in the chypre family with their Eau de Chypre in 1850 and Cyprisine in 1894. However, Chypre de Paris in 1909 signified a new evolution in this fragrance family, setting the stage for the eventual creation of Mitsouko in 1919. Though Chypre de Paris was unique for its time, blending Mediterranean warmth with Parisian elegance, it also fell in line with the growing trend of chypre perfumes that would dominate the industry in the years to come. Mitsouko, often considered the pinnacle of Guerlain’s chypre creations, would go on to become the defining fragrance of the family, solidifying Guerlain’s mastery of this olfactory style.

In 1913, the Evening Star published an intriguing observation on the nature of perfumes, emphasizing how mere names cannot capture the essence of a scent. Zinda Brozia, a figure of refined taste, remarked that one must experience a perfume firsthand to truly understand its complexity. "As many makers, so there are as many 'chypres'," she stated, highlighting the diverse interpretations of the chypre fragrance category. According to her, there was no singular 'chypre' perfume, despite references by notable figures like Walter Scott, and the various iterations offered by perfume houses. She cited Houbigant's Cypris from 1775 as one of the earliest examples, yet it was Atkinson’s Chypre—a wildly successful blend introduced years prior—that became the trendsetter for the fragrance world.

Brozia lamented that Atkinson had not protected the name, allowing other perfumers to adopt and reinterpret it. One of the most distinguished creations to arise from this trend was Guerlain’s Chypre de Paris. Although it was part of Guerlain’s more affordable line, priced at a modest $1.20, Brozia praised its elegance, craftsmanship, and lasting power. She described it as a "sum total of perfume value," suggesting that, despite its price, Chypre de Paris embodied sophistication and distinction. The scent's complexity and appeal were so unique that she believed it would be impossible to replicate—a sentiment underscoring the singular artistry involved in its creation. According to an inflation calculator, $1.20 in 1913 has the same buying power as $38.52 in 2024's money.

Her reflections not only highlight the competitive nature of the fragrance industry at the time but also point to Chypre de Paris's ability to stand out in a crowded market. For a perfume from Guerlain's more accessible range to receive such acclaim speaks volumes about its quality, and Brozia’s words suggest it was a fragrance that left a lasting impression on those fortunate enough to experience it.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was reportedly not like the chypres we are used to and is classified as an aromatic spicy leather fragrance.

• Top notes: leather, spicy notes, lavender, bergamot, lemon
• Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, rose, ylang ylang, orris, calamus, opoponax, patchouli, Peru balsam, nutmeg
• Base notes: cascarilla, oakmoss, vanilla, musk and civet

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter the top notes of Chypre de Paris, an intriguing blend of leather and spice immediately captivates the senses. The leather is rich and smooth, evoking the luxurious feel of well-worn, polished hide, warm and slightly smoky. This tactile, earthy sensation is swiftly cut through by the sharper, peppery bite of spices, adding a fiery warmth that lingers on the skin like embers. As the scent evolves, calming lavender softens the initial intensity, its floral-herbal character introducing a soothing, fresh breeze. The citrus notes of bergamot and lemon then bring a bright, zesty sharpness, like a brisk gust of air over the coast, lifting the composition with a vibrant energy that contrasts the deep, animalic quality of leather.

In the heart of the fragrance, the complexity unfurls like a richly woven tapestry. Jasmine and orange blossom bloom together, delicate and sweet, their white floral profiles intertwining to create an ethereal, powdery haze. There is a hint of the exotic, sultry ylang-ylang that introduces a tropical warmth, while rose adds a classic, romantic depth. The orris root's powdery elegance begins to weave through, providing a grounding, slightly earthy texture. Calamus and opoponax, with their resinous and spicy facets, add an ancient, almost mystical dimension, giving the fragrance an incense-like quality. The heart is further deepened by the patchouli, with its dark, earthy undertones, and the nutmeg, which adds a subtle, aromatic spiciness that harmonizes beautifully with the rich balsamic warmth of Peru balsam.

As the fragrance settles into its base, a lush, green oakmoss emerges, evoking the dense, shaded forest floor, damp and aromatic. Vanilla introduces a soft, creamy sweetness, rounding out the sharper edges of the leather and spices. Musk, animalic and sensual, adds a skin-like warmth, while civet—undoubtedly more daring—brings a raw, almost primal aspect that anchors the composition in a deep, intimate way. Together, these base notes create a sensual, enveloping dry-down that is both grounding and tantalizing, leaving an unforgettable, lingering presence on the skin.

This aromatic, spicy leather fragrance, though classified as a chypre, veers away from the traditional structure we might expect. It is bolder, more mysterious, with a unique blend of spicy and leathery accords that give it an opulent, almost daring personality. The balance of rich, animalic warmth with the lightness of florals and citrus creates a harmonious tension, capturing the allure of both nature and luxury.

From our friend Monsieur Guerlain: " Frédéric Sacone tells us that Jacques Guerlain reused Chypre de Paris to make his [reformulated version of] Cuir de Russie in 1935. Upon researching the handwritten formula for Cuir de Russie (1873), Frédéric Sacone found out that it lists Chypre de Paris (1909), as well as Mitsouko  (1919) among its ingredients."

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Chypre de Paris by Guerlain, launched in 1909, enjoyed a notable presence in the perfume market through its early years. By 1913, the fragrance had established itself as a significant player in Guerlain’s lineup, well-regarded for its refined composition and enduring appeal. Despite its inclusion in the more accessible $1.20 series, Chypre de Paris was celebrated for its distinctiveness and quality, embodying the sophisticated characteristics of the chypre genre. The scent was praised for its elegance and lasting qualities, suggesting that it resonated deeply with the discerning tastes of the era.

However, as with many perfumes, its popularity eventually waned. The exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, but by the time it was no longer available, Chypre de Paris had left a lasting impression on those who experienced it. The fragrance’s continued sale through 1913 highlights its success and the high regard it held within the perfume community. Its absence from the market today marks the end of an era for this particular scent, but its legacy endures in the memories of those who cherished it and in the historical record of Guerlain’s storied perfume creations.