Extrait de Caryophilus album by Guerlain c1848

Launched in 1848, Extrait de Caryophilus Album by Guerlain was a perfume deeply rooted in both botanical tradition and artistic refinement. The name itself is derived from Latin and French, with Extrait meaning "extract" and Caryophilus album referring to the fragrant white carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus). Pronounced "eks-tray duh ka-ree-oh-fee-lus al-bum", the name evokes the image of a pure white carnation, symbolizing both delicacy and intensity. The choice of this name was likely influenced by the scientific nomenclature popular at the time, lending the fragrance an air of botanical authenticity and refined luxury.

The words Caryophilus album conjure images of snow-white carnation blossoms, their ruffled petals exuding an opulent yet structured beauty. The scent of the carnation is known for its rich, honeyed sweetness, bright spiciness reminiscent of clove, and a deep floral warmth with a faint herbal freshness in its long-lasting drydown. The name itself suggests a duality of purity and intensity, much like the flower it represents. A fragrance of this nature would have been seen as both sophisticated and bold, appealing to women who desired a perfume that was both romantic and assertive—one that lingered with remarkable tenacity and left an impression of elegance and distinction.

The year 1848 was a time of social and political upheaval in Europe, marked by revolutionary movements and shifting cultural landscapes. France, in particular, witnessed the rise of the Second Republic following the February Revolution, bringing changes in governance and society. Despite these upheavals, the mid-19th century was also an era of refinement, with Paris remaining a hub of fashion, art, and perfumery.

Fashions of the time were characterized by elegant silhouettes, fitted bodices, and voluminous skirts supported by layers of crinoline. Soft, feminine detailing such as lace, ruffles, and floral embroidery was in vogue, emphasizing a romantic aesthetic. Perfumery was an essential element of personal adornment, with floral and spicy compositions highly favored among the elite. The creation of Extrait de Caryophilus Album reflected the era’s fascination with botanical accuracy, exotic spices, and rich, lingering fragrances.

Classified as a spicy floral, Extrait de Caryophilus Album would have celebrated the complex and multifaceted aroma of carnation. The fragrance likely opened with a radiant floral sweetness, with notes of orange blossom and cassie (acacia) providing a soft, honeyed introduction. Rose and jasmine, two staples of 19th-century perfumery, would have enriched the heart of the composition, adding depth and a lush, velvety texture.

The defining characteristic of the fragrance, however, would have been its warm, clove-like spiciness, an inherent trait of carnation. This effect was likely enhanced with clove absolute, cinnamon, and orris root, lending the fragrance a rich, slightly powdery warmth. To balance these fiery spices, vanilla and benzoin would have softened the edges, adding a creamy sweetness that blended seamlessly into the ambergris-infused base, ensuring the scent lingered with remarkable tenacity. The faintest touch of an herbaceous note—perhaps a minty or balsamic undertone—would have provided the fragrance with freshness and complexity, preventing it from becoming overly heavy.

During the mid-19th century, florals dominated the world of perfumery, yet carnation was a less common focal point compared to rose, jasmine, or violet. When used, it was often blended subtly into bouquets rather than showcased as a star ingredient. This made Extrait de Caryophilus Album somewhat unique for its time, as it elevated the spiced floral intensity of carnation rather than relegating it to a supporting role. The fragrance likely stood out for its bold yet refined character, making it ideal for women who wanted something stronger and more commanding than a simple floral bouquet.

For the women of 1848, Extrait de Caryophilus Album would have represented both tradition and modernity—a perfume grounded in nature yet enhanced by the artistry of Guerlain. Its lingering, spicy floral warmth would have made it a compelling choice for those who desired a fragrance with presence, elegance, and an air of timeless sophistication.

Wiener Allgemeine Damenzeitung für Frauenleben, 1848:

"The extraordinary preference the French currently have for natural flowers, which has already been mentioned several times, has simultaneously brought about a reform in perfumes and a new era for them. Everything that was fashionable in this area until now has become outdated this winter. Ladies of high society recognize each other by their fragrances, just as one can recognize noble families by their coats of arms. 

Out of curiosity, we present here the names of the latest perfumes from the famous Guerlain factory: Extraits de Lolium agriphyllum, de Phlomis asplenia, d'Azalea melaleuca, de Cyparisse Elaidon, d'Hyemalis anthelia, de Mimosa fragrans, d'Amyris Polyoleus, de Lathyrus odorans, de Cyperus ruber, d'Anthaemia nobilis, de Cytise sylvaria, de Tilia microphilla, d'Hymenaea nitida, de Caryophylle album, de Polyanthe suaveolens, and d'Ocymum dulce. The noses have probably never experienced such a grand celebration."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance. The scent of the carnation is described as possessing an extremely rich, sweet honey-like, bright spicy (clove-like), deep floral aroma with a faint minty-herbaceous undertone in the long drydown; extremely tenacious.

Carnation fragrances of the time period included the following in various quantities: vanilla, cassie, orange blossom, rose, clove, jasmine, orris, benzoin, cinnamon, ambergris.

• Top notes: cassie, orange blossom
• Middle notes: clove, cinnamon, jasmine, orris
• Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, benzoin

Bottle:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Petit courrier des dames: Journal des modes, 1848:

"By creating the Chateau des Fleurs, by inventing the Jardin d'Hiver, by making flowers fashionable in all the salons of Paris, at the same time the fashion for perfumes returned, somewhat neglected since the abuse that had been made: amber, musk and vetiver. But the perfume that reappears today no longer has anything to do with those bourgeois emanations of old coquetry. Also, to Guerlain, Rue de la Paix, 11, belongs the right of this completely modern renovation, and nothing more delicate, more suave, more inoffensive to the nerves, and more voluptuous to the sense of smell than these delicious compositions of our famous perfumer. Women of good company can be recognized by its perfumes, as the high lineage of races can be recognized by coats of arms; and when a lock of hair flutters near you, when a magnificent handkerchief falls by your side, or when a fresh and pretty glove approaches your lips by chance, you judge by the perfume which exhales from this hair, this handkerchief, these gloves, if the woman to whom they belong has received at Guerlain the sanction of good fashion taste and distinction.

New odors composed by Guerlain:

• Extrait de Lolium agriphyllum 
• Extrait de Phlomis asplenia, 
• Extrait d'Azalea melaleuca
• Extrait de Cyparisse Elaidon
• Extrait d'Hyemalis anthelia
• Extrait de Cytise sylvaria 
• Extrait d'Anthemia nobilis 
• Extrait de Cyperus ruber  
• Extrait de Tilia microphylla
• Extrait d'Hymenaea nitida 
• Extrait de Mimosa fragrans
• Extrait de Caryophilus album 
• Extrait d'Amyris Polyolens 
• Extrait de Polyanthe suaveolens  
• Extrait de Lathyrus odorans  
• Extrait d'Ocymum dulce 

By bringing to light these entirely new perfumes, Guerlain points out that they can only be found at home, and recommends to be on guard against the imitations that one will try to make."