Extrait de Caryophilus album by Guerlain c1848

Extrait de Caryophilus album by Guerlain: launched in 1848. This is the fragrant white carnation (dianthus) blossom.

Wiener Allgemeine Damenzeitung für Frauenleben, 1848:

"The extraordinary preference the French currently have for natural flowers, which has already been mentioned several times, has simultaneously brought about a reform in perfumes and a new era for them. Everything that was fashionable in this area until now has become outdated this winter. Ladies of high society recognize each other by their fragrances, just as one can recognize noble families by their coats of arms. 

Out of curiosity, we present here the names of the latest perfumes from the famous Guerlain factory: Extraits de Lolium agriphyllum, de Phlomis asplenia, d'Azalea melaleuca, de Cyparisse Elaidon, d'Hyemalis anthelia, de Mimosa fragrans, d'Amyris Polyoleus, de Lathyrus odorans, de Cyperus ruber, d'Anthaemia nobilis, de Cytise sylvaria, de Tilia microphilla, d'Hymenaea nitida, de Caryophylle album, de Polyanthe suaveolens, and d'Ocymum dulce. The noses have probably never experienced such a grand celebration."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance. The scent of the carnation is described as possessing an extremely rich, sweet honey-like, bright spicy (clove-like), deep floral aroma with a faint minty-herbaceous undertone in the long drydown; extremely tenacious.

Carnation fragrances of the time period included the following in various quantities: vanilla, cassie, orange blossom, rose, clove, jasmine, orris, benzoin, cinnamon, ambergris.

• Top notes: cassie, orange blossom
• Middle notes: clove, cinnamon, jasmine, orris
• Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, benzoin

Bottle:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Petit courrier des dames: Journal des modes, 1848:

"By creating the Chateau des Fleurs, by inventing the Jardin d'Hiver, by making flowers fashionable in all the salons of Paris, at the same time the fashion for perfumes returned, somewhat neglected since the abuse that had been made: amber, musk and vetiver. But the perfume that reappears today no longer has anything to do with those bourgeois emanations of old coquetry. Also, to Guerlain, Rue de la Paix, 11, belongs the right of this completely modern renovation, and nothing more delicate, more suave, more inoffensive to the nerves, and more voluptuous to the sense of smell than these delicious compositions of our famous perfumer. Women of good company can be recognized by its perfumes, as the high lineage of races can be recognized by coats of arms; and when a lock of hair flutters near you, when a magnificent handkerchief falls by your side, or when a fresh and pretty glove approaches your lips by chance, you judge by the perfume which exhales from this hair, this handkerchief, these gloves, if the woman to whom they belong has received at Guerlain the sanction of good fashion taste and distinction.

New odors composed by Guerlain:

• Extrait de Lolium agriphyllum 
• Extrait de Phlomis asplenia, 
• Extrait d'Azalea melaleuca
• Extrait de Cyparisse Elaidon
• Extrait d'Hyemalis anthelia
• Extrait de Cytise sylvaria 
• Extrait d'Anthemia nobilis 
• Extrait de Cyperus ruber  
• Extrait de Tilia microphylla
• Extrait d'Hymenaea nitida 
• Extrait de Mimosa fragrans
• Extrait de Caryophilus album 
• Extrait d'Amyris Polyolens 
• Extrait de Polyanthe suaveolens  
• Extrait de Lathyrus odorans  
• Extrait d'Ocymum dulce 

By bringing to light these entirely new perfumes, Guerlain points out that they can only be found at home, and recommends to be on guard against the imitations that one will try to make."