Muguet by Guerlain c1833

Muguet by Guerlain, introduced in 1833,takes its name from the French term for “Lily of the Valley.” The word "Muguet," pronounced "mew-geh," evokes a sense of delicate elegance and purity, as Lily of the Valley is a small, bell-shaped flower known for its sweet, fresh fragrance and its association with springtime renewal. The choice of this name underscores the perfume’s intention to capture the essence of these pristine, fleeting blooms.

In scent, “Muguet” conjures a vision of a lush, verdant garden where the air is filled with the light, airy aroma of Lily of the Valley. The fragrance opens with a fresh, green note that evokes the crispness of morning dew on delicate white petals. This is complemented by a subtle sweetness that lingers, reminiscent of a soft, floral breeze wafting through a sunlit meadow. The scent is both uplifting and soothing, capturing the ethereal beauty and transient nature of the flower.

During the 19th century, the perfume industry was deeply invested in creating scents that mirrored the natural world, and Muguet was no exception. At the time, many fragrances were centered around complex floral bouquets, often enriched with animalic undertones to add depth and sophistication. Guerlain’s Muguet distinguished itself by focusing on the pure, unadulterated scent of Lily of the Valley, presenting a fragrance that was both simple and refined. This choice reflected the period’s fascination with capturing nature’s most delicate scents while still adhering to the prevalent trend of incorporating rich, layered compositions.

For women of the time, Muguet would have been perceived as a symbol of purity and refinement. Its light, fresh scent offered a contrast to the heavier, more opulent fragrances popular in earlier decades, aligning with the 19th-century trend towards more delicate and nuanced scents. The perfume’s association with spring and renewal likely appealed to women seeking a fragrance that embodied the freshness of the season and a sense of delicate sophistication.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is a powdery, floral fragrance with a dominant lily of the valley note.

• Top notes: acacia, lily of the valley, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, rose, tuberose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vanilla, bitter almond, castoreum, orris, musk, tonka bean

Harper's Bazaar, 1960:

"Guerlain's Muguet, long a favorite in Europe, has recently drifted across the ocean to us. A talisman of good luck in countries where lilies of the valley run rampant over spring woods. There is little doubt it will pervade its fragrance just as winningly here."

Playbill, 1960:

"Guerlain's Muguet is a true reflexion of the flower's own tender beauty— created from the valley lilies that reach their loveliest flowering in the fields of Grasse."

Bottles:

Muguet was presented in the Carre flacon (parfum), Fleuri flacon (parfum), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Louis XVI flacon (parfum), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Amphore, (parfum), the parapluie flacon (parfum) and later in the bee bottle.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The 19th century marked a period of remarkable innovation in the world of perfumery, as perfumers experimented with new techniques and ingredients to refine their craft. During this era, the creation of fragrances like Muguet relied heavily on natural ingredients. Early formulas for Muguet were crafted using a variety of natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures. These methods aimed to capture the fresh, green notes characteristic of Lily of the Valley, a flower celebrated for its delicate and fleeting fragrance. Perfumers worked meticulously to replicate the flower’s ethereal scent, drawing on their expertise to balance the complexities of natural essences.

As the century progressed, the landscape of fragrance creation began to shift with the advent of synthetic compounds. The introduction of synthetics such as coumarin and heliotropin brought about significant changes. These newly discovered materials offered perfumers the ability to create more stable and enduring representations of delicate floral notes. With these innovations, fragrances could achieve greater consistency and longevity, enhancing the overall perfume experience. Synthetic ingredients allowed for the precise reproduction of the nuanced scents found in nature, which was previously challenging to achieve with natural extracts alone.

Originally launched in 1833, Muguet was a product of this early era of experimentation. Its formula was designed to embody the fresh and delicate aroma of Lily of the Valley using the best available natural methods. However, as the industry continued to evolve, so did the approach to fragrance formulation. In 1908, Jacques Guerlain undertook a significant reformulation of Muguet, incorporating the advancements of the time. This reformulation likely included the use of synthetic ingredients to enhance the perfume’s quality and durability, reflecting the broader trends in perfumery that were shaping the industry at the turn of the century. The updated Muguet thus represented a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern innovation, capturing the essence of Lily of the Valley with greater precision and lasting power.

Original 1908 formula:

• Top notes: lily of the valley, lemon
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, rose, freesia, lily of the valley, cream notes, orris
• Base notes: lily of the valley, ylang ylang

1908 Version's Scent Profile:

Imagine the first spritz of Muguet—a vibrant burst of lily of the valley that greets you with its delicate and airy charm. This top note encapsulates the essence of a spring morning, as if you are walking through a dewy meadow where the flowers bloom fresh and bright. It’s a crisp, green note, almost like a gentle whisper of floral innocence that dances lightly on the skin.

As the fragrance evolves, you are greeted by the next layer: the lemon. Its bright, citrusy scent adds a sparkling freshness, like a splash of sunshine that elevates the delicate lily of the valley. The lemon note provides a zesty, invigorating contrast that sharpens the overall bouquet, making the initial floral notes even more vivid and refreshing.

Transitioning into the heart of the fragrance, the lily of the valley returns, this time entwined with the rich and velvety essence of rose. The rose adds a lush, romantic depth, its petals soft and velvety against the green crispness of the lily of the valley. Alongside it, freesia introduces a subtle, sweet floral nuance, enhancing the bouquet with its tender, slightly spicy aroma. The cream notes mingle seamlessly, adding a smooth, luxurious texture that feels like a gentle embrace. The orris, with its powdery, nuanced softness, rounds out the heart with an elegant, refined quality, enriching the floral symphony with its gentle sophistication.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a warm and inviting finish. The lily of the valley persists, maintaining its ethereal presence while being joined by ylang ylang. The ylang ylang adds a rich, exotic sweetness, a hint of tropical opulence that complements the fresh, green lily of the valley. This combination creates a harmonious and enduring scent, leaving a lasting impression of refined floral elegance and warmth.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The 1908 reformulated version of Muguet was discontinued around 1965, marking the end of an era for this beloved fragrance. However, the scent's timeless appeal led to its revival in limited editions over the years, reflecting the continued admiration for its delicate bouquet. In 1998, Guerlain introduced a reimagined version named Eau de Muguet, an eau de toilette which paid homage to the original while incorporating contemporary updates to align with modern tastes. This version of Muguet was relaunched as a limited edition in a hand numbered 75ml Fleuri flacon.

Muguet c1999, photo by domi

By 2001, the fragrance was rebranded as Muguet Millesime, with "Millesime" translating to "vintage" or "yearly harvest" in French. This term denotes a special edition of a perfume that is crafted with exceptional care, often drawing on the heritage and quality of past creations while embracing the artistry of the present. The name signifies not just a revival, but a refined iteration that honors the original spirit of Muguet.

Since its relaunch, Muguet Millesime has been celebrated annually in a limited edition collector's bottle, each year offering a unique take on the iconic fragrance. These bottles are designed to appeal to collectors and enthusiasts, capturing the essence of Muguet in a form that continues to delight both new and loyal fans alike. The fragrance’s return as a yearly limited edition highlights its enduring charm and the ongoing legacy of Guerlain’s perfumery expertise.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is a crisp green floral fragrance with a dominant fresh lily of the valley note.It was created as an eau de toilette. This version of Muguet was also released as the Aqua Allegoria fragrance Lillia Bella in 2002.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: jasmine, Turkish rose, lily and carnation 
• Base notes: patchouli, oakmoss, leather, sandalwood

2001 Version Scent Profile:

In the crisp green floral fragrance of this eau de toilette, the initial encounter is an invigorating burst of top notes that immediately captivate the senses. The zesty freshness of lemon dances on the nose with a bright, citrusy sparkle, its tangy edge creating an uplifting sensation. Intertwined with this citrus burst is the vibrant, sunlit aroma of bergamot, which adds a sophisticated layer of fruity warmth and complexity. 

But it is the dominant note of lily of the valley that truly stands out, enveloping you in its delicate, crisp green scent. This flower's fresh, clean essence brings an elegant purity to the opening, evoking images of a dewy spring morning.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a lush, floral bouquet. Jasmine takes center stage, its heady, rich scent unfolding with a sensual warmth that adds depth and sophistication. Turkish rose follows, offering a velvety, classic floral aroma that harmonizes beautifully with the jasmine, lending a touch of timeless romance. 

Lily and carnation join the chorus, enhancing the floral symphony with their own unique characteristics. The lily contributes a soft, creamy sweetness, while the carnation introduces a spicy, slightly peppery nuance, creating a well-rounded and dynamic middle stage.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a more grounded, complex composition. The earthy, woody richness of patchouli provides a deep, lingering foundation, its robust and slightly sweet aroma blending seamlessly with the soft, leathery undertones that bring an air of sophistication and elegance. 

Oakmoss adds a natural, forest-like depth, evoking the feeling of a walk through a sun-dappled woodland. Sandalwood concludes the scent with its creamy, smooth, and subtly sweet finish, rounding out the fragrance with a warm, comforting embrace.

Together, these elements create a scent that is both refreshing and enduring, capturing the essence of a classic floral bouquet with a modern twist. The crisp green notes of lily of the valley are balanced by the rich, complex base, making it a truly elegant and versatile fragrance.

Since 2006, Guerlain sells a limited, numbered edition of it’s 1906 perfume, Muguet, for three days only, April 28th, 29th, 30th and only available in Guerlain's boutiques. The bottles and design details change each year, but the perfume composition stays the same.

The 2006 edition was housed inside the 30ml Louis XVI flacon in only 190 available copies at 130 euros each.

photo by 1dune

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