Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Guerlain in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. All trademarks belong to their respective owners. The main objective of this website is to chronicle the 200+ year old history of the Guerlain fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years. Let this site be your source for information on antique and vintage Guerlain perfumes. Another goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Guerlain company how much we miss many of the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances! I invite you to leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or on what occasion, what it smelled like to you, how it made you feel, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Guerlain brand might see it. If you have any questions, please send all images of your bottle and pertinent information directly to me at cleopatrasboudoir@gmail.com. I will try to assist you the best I can.

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Monday, July 15, 2013

Shalimar: Chauve Souris Flacons

Please note that this is an updated blog post of my original from 2010 which was found on my defunct website guerlainperfumes.webs.com. All photos and information was gathered at that time and published in 2010. Many of my collages and informative photos have been repurposed by other websites (not my own) and do not give credit to where they got them (my blog). In 2013, I had made the move to blogspot, so all previously published articles are now found here - with most being updated with any new info.




Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat) c1924- present

Shalimar extrait de parfum was presented in several different flacons over the years, and all bottles will have a gilded batwing shaped label. The oldest design is its original one from 1925, the urn shaped flacon, called the "Chauve Souris" by Baccarat (#597).


Shalimar Secret de Parfum c2002 Limited Edition Bottle

Shalimar Secret de Parfum by Guerlain: launched in 2002 as a limited edition flacon for Shalimar, it was titled "Shalimar Secret de Parfum". The tall, cylindrical, modern styled blue glass splash bottle held 1 oz of eau de parfum and was topped off by the familiar blue fan stopper. The juice has not been changed, it is the same Shalimar eau de parfum.



Shalimar - Black Mystery Bottle c2007

Shalimar 'Black Mystery' by Guerlain: launched in 2007, as limited edition collector's flacons for the Christmas holiday. Guerlain housed Shalimar parfum in a black Baccarat crystal flacon and the Shalimar Eau de Parfum in black glass spray bottle. There has not been a change to the formula for either concentration.

From Guerlain:

Among the most prominent and legendary fragrance in history, Shalimar was created as an ode to love. To recapture that magical feeling, Guerlain reinterpreted the Shalimar legend, with a nod to designer Philippe Starck. Much like his famed black crystal Baccarat chandelier, the latest offering from the Shalimar family is a modern rare jewel. Crafted of smoky black crystal with burnished gold accents, the beloved oriental scent of Bergamot, Iris, Vanilla and Amber finds a new home in this mysterious and striking flacon.




Shalimar c2006 Christmas Limited Edition

Christmas Limited edition packaging for Shalimar, the juice remains the same.

This fragrance eternal, the most beautiful evocative tale of thousand and one nights, still marvel.

Nestled in a gorgeous bottle, filter the mythical heart of jasmine, fresh bergamot and daring enveloping sensuality of vanilla, dressed in gold and blue as a sapphire for the occasion. 

Shalimar by Guerlain, € 83 retail. Eau de Parfum 75 ml spray.

Shalimar 80th Anniversary Années Folles Limited Edition Bottle c2005

In 1925, Jacques Guerlain created Shalimar, the perfume that reinvented the world of fragrance and signaled the birth of the Oriental fragrance family. To celebrate 80 years of Shalimar, the House of Guerlain has created a bottle reminiscent of the Art Deco era that embodies the style of the Roaring Twenties

Shalimar for Women by Guerlain Eau de Parfum Spray 2.5 oz - 80th Anniversary Limited Edition Années Folles Collector Bottle. 

The bottle has a transparent gold finish on the glass and a gilded foil label.  Only the packaging is different, the juice stayed the same.

Shalimar Limited Edition - Prestige Edition c2004

Prestige Edition of Shalimar. The 60ml eau de parfum is presented in an elegant atomiser. The flacon features a baudruchage seal fringed with silk threads. It is housed in a suedette-lined midnight blue case, and retailed for about €255.


GUERLAIN SHALIMAR EAU De Parfum 60ml Splash, Limited Edition - EUR ...


Chypre de Paris by Guerlain c1909

Chypre de Paris by Guerlain, launched in 1909, carries a name rich in cultural and olfactory significance. The word "chypre" is French for Cyprus, evoking the island known for its natural beauty and the raw materials historically used in perfumes. Chypre perfumes are defined by a contrast between fresh citrus top notes and deeper, earthier base notes like oakmoss and labdanum. Guerlain's choice to pair "Chypre" with "Paris" in the fragrance's name reflects a fusion of the exotic and the cosmopolitan, situating the fragrance within the heart of Parisian sophistication and timeless elegance.

The name Chypre de Paris would evoke images of the Mediterranean's sun-soaked coasts, combined with the modern, fashionable atmosphere of Paris. The scent likely conjured feelings of luxury, adventure, and refinement, appealing to women who wanted a fragrance that felt worldly yet distinctly French. In interpreting the fragrance, one might imagine a blend of zesty citrus and warm, mossy undertones—an aroma that felt at once fresh and grounding, much like the balance between nature and urbanity that the name suggests.


 

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Shalimar c2010 Limited Edition Flacon

In celebration of Shalimar’s 85th anniversary, Guerlain commissioned Jade Jagger to create a new bottle for the iconic Shalimar Eau de Parfum.

Naissance Shalimar Guerlain c2009 Limited Edition Presentation

Serge Mansau created a superb limited edition sculpture featuring 5 vintage 1930s Baccarat crystal Shalimar flacons resting inside of a plexiglass slab. Four of the flacons are empty and are fixed inside the slab, and only one is full of freshly made parfum extrait in a 20ml size and this one is loose so that it can be removed for applying the perfume. Only 19 examples of this limited edition set will be sold in Guerlain boutiques around the world. 

The limited edition is known as "Naissance Shalimar Guerlain" and represents the birth of Shalimar.


Shalimar Eau de Parfum c2000 Limited Edition Flacon

For this limited edition,Guerlain decided to have the bottle itself made up of a sapphire blue crystal and the stopper clear crystal, instead of the reverse.This was a 30ml size eau de parfum splash that retailed for 350 francs. It was also available in eau de toilette in the 125ml size for 500 francs.

Shalimar Eau de Parfum c1999 Limited Edition Flacon

Shalimar 1 oz Eau de Parfum Splash in limited edition cobalt blue crystal. This may have been a special edition for Christmas that year. I am unsure of the bottle's manufacturer, I believe it is Pochet et du Courval, I do know that it is not a Baccarat flacon. It stands 4" tall. Has a clear label on base "Guerlain Bottle made in France", also has contents information on a secondary label. 
It is a pretty rare bottle.


Photo by ebay seller covededcastoffs

Shalimar 75th Anniversary Edition c1999

This limited edition anniversary bottle was quite special, it had a clear crystal stopper instead of the usual blue. The box is a flocked midnight blue color.




Guerlain Cobalt Vanity Jar Set c1993

Guerlain Cobalt Vanity Jar and Perfume Atomizer Set exclusive to the Guerlain boutiques. Sold from 1993 til 1999. The glass vanity jars and perfume atomizer were topped with a gilded ball decorated with a stylized scale pattern reminiscent of the Meteorites compact. The matching hair brush and comb were also decorated with the ball.







Poudre Orientale by Guerlain c1850

Poudre Orientale by Guerlain, circa 1850, oriental powder for the nails. It would give a rosy tint and healthy looking shine to the fingernails.

photo by museu del perfum

Shalimar 60th Anniversary Flacon c1986

Shalimar 60th Anniversary Flacon c1986

Shalimar was encased in a block of lucite. It celebrated the 60th anniversary of the perfume. The bottom of the bottle reads 60th ANNIVERSARY. It measures 4 inches high by 3 inches wide.



La Collection des Champs Elysées c2011

Limited Edition from 2011- La Collection des Champs Elysées 



Superbe coffret Guerlain "La Collection des Champs Elysées" containing 3 prestige extraits de parfum, 5ml : L'Instant, Shalimar and Insolence. Black velvet box. Retailed for: $210





Half Ounces Perfume Bottles c1961

In a 1961 edition of Playbill, it has been mentioned that Shalimar, L"Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit and Mitsouko were making their new debuts in 0.5 oz size bottles, but the scent, the packaging and boxes remained the same.

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Le Sacre des Orientaux - Limited Edition Coffret c2005

Le Sacre des Orientaux -The name means "The Rite of Orientals." Limited edition coffret containing 20 ml extraits (parfum) of Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue and Samsara, each quadrilobe flacon is adorned with a single genuine Swarovski crystal strung onto the baudruchage. As you can see from the photo below, Samsara is tied with red cords, Shalimar is tied with navy blue cords and L'Heure Bleue is tied with royal blue cords, each color is respective of the traditional colors associated with each perfume. This boxed set was exclusively available for purchase at the opening of the newly renovated Guerlain flagship store in 2005, with only 69 pieces created.


photo by Coriolon at parfumo

Monday, July 1, 2013

Habit Rouge c1965

Habit Rouge: launched in 1965, created by Jean Paul Guerlain. Habit Rouge means 'red jacket' or 'hunting coat' and refers to professional equestrians' dark red jacket. The bottle was designed by Robert Granai.


Sunday, June 30, 2013

Cour des Senteurs: Versailles by Guerlain c2013

Cour des Senteurs: Versailles by Guerlain: launched in 2013. 




Dames de Table Sealing Perfume Bottle

 Baudruchage is the name for the sealing technique to prevent perfume from spillage and evaporation. It is one of the earliest forms of perfume bottle sealing and was originally made from a thin membrane (baudruche) of animal gut and silk or cotton cords wrapped around the stopper and the mouth of the bottle. Later, onionskin or a thick plastic film was used in place of the animal derived membranes. After the baudruche is in place, a small metal seal is clamped onto the middle of the two ends of the cord to hold them in place.


Eau de Cologne Pour le Bain by Guerlain

Eau de Cologne Pour le Bain, apparently sold exclusively to Guerlain employees only. Reportedly made with all natural extracts.






Thursday, June 27, 2013

"Magic Advertisements" by Guerlain c1917

This was originally published in The Atlantic, Volume 120, in 1917.
"Have you ever seen magic advertisements?", asked the Lady in Blue. "Advertisements that read like poetry or a fairy tale and that had all the delicate imagery of sweet and fragile verses?" "Never," said the Gentleman in Gray. "The advertisements I find in our daily papers". "Pray speak," erupted the Lady in Blue. "Rather come here to me and look at this delightful prospectus a French perfumer has sent me. I don't know if his perfumes are perfect but the names he has given them are quite exquisite. They have the true magic of all inspired things they made me dream and smile and wonder. 
Here is the first of them Avril en Fleurs (April in Bloom). Don't you feel at once the freshness of young half-opened blossoms and the crinkly softness of baby leaves?" I saw as in a flash the light blue April sky before me with its hurrying white clouds and its unexpected little winds and I felt the whole scent of spring in the air. "Now is that not a magic advertisement? But that is not the best by far. 
Here is another perfume with the charming name Le Bon Vieux Temps. Are there more words needed to create for you great grandmother's time with its potpourri jars and its hoopskirts its little elegancies and its faded sweetnesses? 
Or here La Voilette de Madame can you give me anything more insinuating and coquettish. And thus I could go through the whole list every name is a little masterpiece. 
See this one Le Jardin de Mon Curé?" I smiled under tears when I read it because once I knew such gardens with their wonderful unworldly peace and their sweet and simple old fashioned flowers. Lemon verbena grows there and mignonette and pansies and above all the dear lavender and I have only to shut my eyes to be back in the land of long ago and to see again such a garden lying quietly and full of tranquillity in the mellow light of a late afternoon. But best of all is this one with its true Gallic flourish and esprit its almost elfish roguishness. 
Voila Pourquoi J'aimais Rosine. Is this not quite delicious. What better reason could one give for love and what more valid one. Words can never express the inexpressible and if you were to explain your love you would only explain it away but here comes this magician with his marvelous wand gives us a whiff of some irresistible and captivating scent and then with a little bow to his wondering and breathless audience. Voila pourquoi J'aimais Rosine. What could be more explicit and yet what more evasive. He gives his whole secret away without letting it lose one of its mysteries. I must confess that I fell quite in love with the name of this perfume and I shall try to buy it as soon as I go out. Oh never cried the Gentleman in Gray. "Whatever you do don t do that If you were to ask for it at any counter you would certainly be told that they were just out of this particular kind or if by a strange chance it should be there the price would surely be forbidding. 
Better give this little prospectus a place among your best beloved books and it will never lose its charm for you. But will mere advertising matter not feel out of place in so elect a company as my books," asked the Lady in Blue. "By no means," replied the Gentleman in Gray, "it will feel absolutely at home and in fact it belongs to all those poets and philosophers and romancers. What they give you is also nothing but magic advertisements. Magic advertisements of a truth that will ever elude you of a beauty you will never behold of a love you will never clasp. They give you charming and tantalizing glimpses of something you can never see or say or touch and yet you feel it is the one the only the true reality. 
Magic are these advertisements indeed tinged with the colors of the rainbow sweet voiced like the Song of the Sirens and quite fulfilled with the pathos of things that are too beautiful. And even while you listen to them to the grave and gentle wisdom of your thinkers to the musical passion and melodious playfulness of your poets to the wistfulness and the charm of your romancers you know full well that the things they praise so much and so sweetly will never be yours. 
You know that if you were really to go to the poor old Fates who are quite well meaning but who keep only a very ill assorted stock of rather dubious goods and demand of them the one or the other of the items you found in your magic advertisements. They would tell you at once that they have not this particular kind on hand and offer you some substitute that perhaps your intellect might accept as just as good but that will never satisfy your heart. Or if by a strange and marvelous chance you should indeed get what you are asking for you will soon see that the price is forbidding. For the one perfect hour you will have to pay with all the years to come and if you are wise you will refrain from so dangerous a bargain. 
If you are wise you will peruse the magic advertisements of your books as you delighted in the little French prospectus but never never will you try to touch this glittering fairy gold with your poor hands. Too soon it would turn ashes and dust." "You are right," said the Lady Blue, "and yet though I agree you nevertheless I shall try to get perfume as I shall try to get all promises of poetry fulfilled by life. Your wisdom after all is limited are just wise enough to be wise whereas I." "Yes?," asked the Gentleman in Gray a shade too eagerly for a philosopher. 
Whereas I continued the Lady Blue with a little curtsy possess higher and a more gracious I am wise enough to be foolish. "Is that a promise?" asked the Gentleman in Gray and he took hold both her hands. "No," said the Lady in Blue smilingly withdrawing her hands "it was nothing but a magic advertisement". And with a little pleased laugh she disappeared leaving him alone wit his vain thoughts and idle dreams. "

Friday, May 17, 2013

Shalimar Ode a la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique c2013

Shalimar Ode a la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique by Guerlain was launched in 2013.

The latest tribute to the fascinating Shalimar with a third Ode à la Vanille limited edition fragrance hit the stores in May 2013, this time utilizing another variant of vanilla, a Mexican vanilla extract. As described by Guerlain, this vanilla has notes of prune, caramel and chocolate, and is fruitier than last year’s woody Madagascan version Shalimar Ode à La Vanille 2012.


Monday, March 11, 2013

Heliotrope by Guerlain c1870

Héliotrope by Guerlain: first created in the 1870s. There were other fragrances by Guerlain like Aroma di Heliotropio from around the same period.

Heliotrope is a sweet-scented plant which is called Heliotrope because it follows the course of the sun. After opening it gradually turns from the east to the west and during the night turns again to the east to meet the rising sun. The Ancients recognized this characteristic of the plant and applied it to mythology.

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Savon Skimous c1920s

Savon Skimous, a special soap made by Guerlain in the 1920s. It was available in two varieties, one for blondes and one for brunettes. It retailed for 75 cents a cake.



Soap box. Photo from Drouot.








Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Gatchutcha c1928

Gatchutcha was launched in 1928. Gatchucha was the nickname character Gracieuse Detcharry in Pierre Loti's novel Ramuntcho from 1897.

I have no idea what type of fragrance this was.






Presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat design # 538. This bottle design was also used in 1924 for Coryse, used in 1926 for Lasco, & in 1928 for Guerlain, & Les Parfums Guilhene.

Discontinued, date unknown.

Sunday, February 17, 2013

Terracotta Eau Sous Le Vent c2009

Terracotta Eau Sous Le Vent by Guerlain: launched in 2009.


Mahora c2000 and Mayotte c2005

Mahora: created in 2000 by Jean Paul Guerlain. This perfume was named after the main island in the Mayotte archipelago, whose nickname is "The Perfume Island".



Saturday, February 16, 2013

Philtre d'Amour 1999

Philtre d'Amour: (Love Potion) Launched on Valentine's Day 1999, Philtre D'Amour is a potion that celebrates love without clouds. For the eternal love, Jean-Paul Guerlain wanted a perfume that is the symbol of the merger of two lovers. Love shy, bashful, whimsical, each al'art and how to talk about love.

Les Secrets de Sophie c2009

Les Secrets de Sophie: created by Jean-Paul Guerlain as an accentuated floral composition which accompanies three romantic and feminine flacons, available in limited number.

Friday, February 15, 2013

Perfume Shopping...A Difficult Choice...in 1953



From left to right and top to bottom: 

Ever After by Paquin, Prétexte by Jeanne Lanvin, Indiscret by Lucien Lelong. 

Detchema by Revillon, Cuir de Russie by Chanel, Magie by Lancôme, Fugue by Roger et Gallet, Parfum des Parfums by Molinard, Je Reviens by Worth, Femme by Marcel Rochas. 

 Le Dix by Balenciaga, Succès Fou by Schiaparelli, Diorama by Christian Dior, Fath de Fath, 5 de Molyneux, Shalimar by Guerlain, Le Dandy by D'Orsay. 

Crêpe de Chine by Millot, Feu Rouge by Sauzé, Eau de Toilette Joy by Patou, Le Muguet du Bonheur by Caron, Tweed by Lenthéric, Visa by Robert Piguet, Robe d'un Soir by Carven. 

Griffonnage by Jacques Griffe, Météor by Coty, Sortilège by Le Galion, Chantilly by Houbigant, Cœur Joie by Nina Ricci, Jolie Madame by Pierre Balmain, Amour Sorcier by Germaine Lecomte.

Réplique by Raphaël, J'Aime by Heim, Etourdissant by Jean Desprez, Antilope by Weil, Futur by Renoir, Inclination by LT Piver, Voodoo by Dana.

Vetiver Pour Elle c2004

Vetiver Pour Elle: created in 2004 by Jean-Paul Guerlain, exclusively for French retailer Aelia. as a limited edition in duty free shops.

The perfume was “pre-launched” in Aelia/Aéroports de Paris outlets at Paris Charles de Gaulle and Paris Orly airports, where it was available from 18 August to 30 September. From October onwards, it was rolled out to other Aelia travel retail locations, such as Nice and Lyon airports, and Eurostar Gare du Nord. To promote the launch, Aelia created special free-standing floor and counter-top merchandising units.


El Djezir by Guerlain c1883

El Djezir by Guerlain, launched in 1883, is a fragrance steeped in historical and cultural significance. The name "El Djezir" is derived from the Arabic term meaning "the warrior" and is an early reference to the present-day country of Algeria. During the late 19th century, Algeria was a French colony, and this connection likely influenced Guerlain’s choice of name.

The term "El Djezir" evokes powerful imagery and emotions. The word suggests a sense of strength, bravery, and the rich cultural heritage of North Africa. It conjures images of the rugged landscape of Algeria, with its vibrant and exotic essence, embodying both the mystique of the desert and the vitality of its people. The name implies a fragrance with a bold and exotic character, perhaps reflecting the diverse and dynamic nature of the region.

In scent, "El Djezir" would likely be interpreted as a complex and intriguing blend, incorporating elements that capture the essence of Algeria’s landscape and culture. This might include rich, earthy notes reminiscent of the desert, combined with exotic spices and resins that reflect the region’s aromatic traditions. The fragrance could also feature hints of local flora, offering a sensory journey through the varied and aromatic landscape of Algeria.




Bouquet de Countess of Jersey c1840

Bouquet de Comtesse de Jersey: created in 1840 by Guerlain for Sarah Sophia Child Villiers, Countess of Jersey.



Thursday, February 14, 2013

Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain c1923

Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain, launched in 1873 and reformulated in 1923, carries a name rich in both tradition and innovation. The phrase "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" is French, translating to "Spirit of New Flowers." This name captures both the ethereal essence of floral beauty and the freshness of something novel, highlighting Guerlain's intention to bring forth a new interpretation of an older, beloved formula. The word "esprit" suggests something more than just a scent—it evokes the soul, the very spirit of the flowers themselves, adding an element of depth and sophistication. By including "nouvelles," meaning "new," Guerlain nods to a renewal, a rebirth of this floral creation for a new era.

The name "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" would evoke images of vibrant gardens filled with fresh blossoms at the peak of their bloom, the air heavy with the intoxicating, delicate scent of flowers. It calls to mind the freshness of spring mornings, where the light is soft, and the world feels rejuvenated after winter’s dormancy. The emotional tone behind the name is one of renewal, grace, and elegance, suggesting a fragrance that would embody both timeless femininity and modern sensibilities.

In scent, Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely open with a light, airy bouquet of crisp, dewy florals, capturing the freshness of newly bloomed petals. The fragrance would have delicate, almost transparent top notes, leading into a heart of richer, headier blossoms. Perhaps the scent would echo the original floral composition of Esprit de Fleurs from 1828, but with new ingredients introduced to reflect contemporary tastes of the 1920s. The emphasis on "new flowers" could also hint at the inclusion of more exotic or recently discovered floral essences that were becoming popular in modern perfumery.

For the women of the late 19th century, a perfume called Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would have felt refined, embodying the delicate femininity and romantic ideals of the time. Floral perfumes were deeply connected with notions of purity, beauty, and grace, all of which aligned with the societal expectations of women during this period. A woman wearing Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely have felt as though she was draped in the finest blooms, exuding elegance and subtle charm.

When Guerlain reformulated the fragrance in 1923, it was an opportunity to bring the perfume into the modern age while still honoring its heritage. By that time, perfumery had undergone a transformation. The introduction of synthetic ingredients alongside traditional natural essences allowed for more complex, long-lasting fragrances. Guerlain’s decision to reformulate with modern ingredients not only reflected the advancements in perfume chemistry but also catered to the evolving preferences of their clientele. The 1920s were a period of great social and cultural change, with women embracing newfound independence and boldness in fashion and lifestyle. A perfume like Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles, with its connection to the past but crafted for the present, would have resonated with modern women who still cherished timeless elegance but desired something more contemporary and daring.

By relaunching Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles on the brink of their 100-year anniversary, Maison Guerlain demonstrated their mastery of tradition while showing their readiness to adapt and innovate. The reformulation was symbolic, offering a modernized homage to the original creation from 1828, ensuring that it could continue to captivate future generations with its refined floral allure.
 





Violette qui Embaume c1904

Guerlain’s Violette qui Embaume, (also spelled Violette Qu'Embaume), launched in 1904, carries a name that poetically reflects the essence of its composition. Translated from French, "Violette qui Embaume" means "Violet that Embalms" or "Violet that Wafts Scent." The word "embaume" evokes imagery of a violet flower so richly fragrant that its scent envelops the air, filling the surroundings with its natural beauty. This was the phrase of the flower sellers in Paris, where a bunch cost two pence. This phrase captures the experience of being in a lush garden of violets, their delicate fragrance carried on a soft breeze. It’s a name that speaks to the era's romantic sensibilities, a time when flowers symbolized femininity, elegance, and the ethereal nature of beauty.

In scent, Violette qui Embaume would be interpreted as a soliflore—a fragrance built around a single floral note. Here, the violet stands front and center, with its powdery, slightly sweet and woody qualities. The name conjures an image of dew-covered violets at dawn, the soft, almost velvety petals exuding their scent with a quiet but persistent strength. The addition of vetiver as a base note grounds the delicate violet, providing an earthy, slightly smoky depth to balance its inherent sweetness. Together, these notes evoke a blend of innocence and sophistication—a fragrance that is at once delicate and rooted in natural richness.

Women of the early 20th century would have embraced a perfume called Violette qui Embaume as an expression of refined taste and feminine grace. At the time, violet perfumes were incredibly popular, signifying purity, modesty, and the gentle elegance admired in women of the era. The violet flower was a staple in many women’s gardens, and its scent was familiar, comforting, and subtly seductive. With the industrial revolution still in progress, there was a growing appreciation for nature, and floral fragrances allowed women to carry a piece of the natural world with them. Violette qui Embaume would have resonated deeply with the women of the period, offering them a sense of connection to both nature and the refined aesthetics of French perfumery.

Violette a Deux Sous c1890

"Violette à Deux Sous," launched by Guerlain around 1890, is a whimsical and evocative name that translates from French to "Twopenny Violet." This playful title cleverly nods to one of the early postage stamps, a “two sous” stamp, making it a witty pun by Guerlain. By choosing this name, Guerlain infused the fragrance with a sense of accessibility, charm, and nostalgia, while hinting at the modest price point of the stamp, which made it an everyday item. The name evokes an image of violets—delicate and fragrant—paired with a sense of something simple yet precious, like a small token sent by mail, a message sealed with affection.

The word "Violette à Deux Sous" conjures emotions of lightness, spring, and subtle luxury. The violet, a flower that symbolizes modesty, love, and innocence, would have brought to mind for women of the time an ethereal, tender scent associated with femininity. In the late 19th century, violets were immensely popular in both fashion and fragrance. The scent of violets had become a cornerstone of perfumery, often used to evoke romance and nostalgia, making this perfume likely to appeal to women who desired an elegant, classic floral scent with a touch of playfulness. The title "Twopenny Violet" would have been perceived as charming, affordable yet sophisticated, inviting women to enjoy a little indulgence reminiscent of love letters or secret admirations exchanged with the simplicity of a postage stamp.

Ai Loe by Guerlain c1905

Aï Loé by Guerlain, launched in 1905 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a name that evokes mystery and intrigue. The origin of the name "Aï Loé" is uncertain, though it could potentially be derived from various linguistic sources. One possibility is that it comes from the Tamil word for "loyal," with "Ai" meaning "I," though this remains speculative. In the world of perfumery at the time, it was common for names to carry exotic or foreign-sounding elements, suggesting far-off lands, and Guerlain could have crafted the name to convey a sense of elegance and allure. Alternatively, it could be a play on an earlier perfume called "Ki Loe du Japon" or "Ki Loc," popular in formulary books of the 19th and early 20th centuries, with slight alterations by Guerlain to make it uniquely his own.

The name "Aï Loé" conjures images of distant, romantic lands and exoticism. It hints at travel, mystery, and an alluring sense of devotion or loyalty, making it an evocative choice for a perfume in the early 20th century. For women of the time, the name would have likely evoked a sense of elegance and sophistication, appealing to the era's fascination with the exotic, which was very much in vogue in the early 1900s. The word "Loé" might evoke floral delicacy or softness, while "Aï" could suggest a personal, intimate connection, as though the fragrance speaks directly to the wearer. Together, they form a name that feels both intimate and far-reaching, suggesting a unique personal expression through scent.

In terms of how the fragrance itself was interpreted, Aï Loé carried the sensual, luxurious qualities that were becoming hallmarks of Guerlain’s creations during this period. The perfume was interpreted in scent as an alluring blend of soft florals, exotic woods, and hints of oriental resins and musk—a composition that transported the wearer to an imaginary, far-flung land. With the reworking of an earlier formula, Guerlain would have retained traditional elements of perfumery while adding his own distinctive touch, perhaps modernizing the blend with new notes or balancing it with a French sensibility of refinement.



L'Heure De Nuit c2012

L’Heure De Nuit: created in 2012, by Thierry Wasser. The new fragrance for women is a beautiful, sparkling modern interpretation flanker to the original 1912 fragrance, L’Heure Bleue.


Painting: Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, La Grande Odalisque, 1814