Perfume Shopping...A Difficult Choice...in 1953

From left to right and top to bottom: 

Ever After by Paquin, Prétexte by Jeanne Lanvin, Indiscret by Lucien Lelong. 

Detchema by Revillon, Cuir de Russie by Chanel, Magie by Lancôme, Fugue by Roger et Gallet, Parfum des Parfums by Molinard, Je Reviens by Worth, Femme by Marcel Rochas. 

 Le Dix by Balenciaga, Succès Fou by Schiaparelli, Diorama by Christian Dior, Fath de Fath, 5 de Molyneux, Shalimar by Guerlain, Le Dandy by D'Orsay. 

Crêpe de Chine by Millot, Feu Rouge by Sauzé, Eau de Toilette Joy by Patou, Le Muguet du Bonheur by Caron, Tweed by Lenthéric, Visa by Robert Piguet, Robe d'un Soir by Carven. 

Griffonnage by Jacques Griffe, Météor by Coty, Sortilège by Le Galion, Chantilly by Houbigant, Cœur Joie by Nina Ricci, Jolie Madame by Pierre Balmain, Amour Sorcier by Germaine Lecomte.

Réplique by Raphaël, J'Aime by Heim, Etourdissant by Jean Desprez, Antilope by Weil, Futur by Renoir, Inclination by LT Piver, Voodoo by Dana.

Vetiver Pour Elle c2004

Vetiver Pour Elle: created in 2004 by Jean-Paul Guerlain, exclusively for French retailer Aelia. as a limited edition in duty free shops.

The perfume was “pre-launched” in Aelia/Aéroports de Paris outlets at Paris Charles de Gaulle and Paris Orly airports, where it was available from 18 August to 30 September. From October onwards, it was rolled out to other Aelia travel retail locations, such as Nice and Lyon airports, and Eurostar Gare du Nord. To promote the launch, Aelia created special free-standing floor and counter-top merchandising units.

El Djezir by Guerlain c1883

El Djezir by Guerlain, launched in 1883, is a fragrance steeped in historical and cultural significance. The name "El Djezir" is derived from the Arabic term meaning "the warrior" and is an early reference to the present-day country of Algeria. During the late 19th century, Algeria was a French colony, and this connection likely influenced Guerlain’s choice of name.

The term "El Djezir" evokes powerful imagery and emotions. The word suggests a sense of strength, bravery, and the rich cultural heritage of North Africa. It conjures images of the rugged landscape of Algeria, with its vibrant and exotic essence, embodying both the mystique of the desert and the vitality of its people. The name implies a fragrance with a bold and exotic character, perhaps reflecting the diverse and dynamic nature of the region.

In scent, "El Djezir" would likely be interpreted as a complex and intriguing blend, incorporating elements that capture the essence of Algeria’s landscape and culture. This might include rich, earthy notes reminiscent of the desert, combined with exotic spices and resins that reflect the region’s aromatic traditions. The fragrance could also feature hints of local flora, offering a sensory journey through the varied and aromatic landscape of Algeria.

Bouquet de Countess of Jersey c1840

Bouquet de Comtesse de Jersey: created in 1840 by Guerlain for Sarah Sophia Child Villiers, Countess of Jersey.

Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain c1923

Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain, launched in 1873 and reformulated in 1923, carries a name rich in both tradition and innovation. The phrase "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" is French, translating to "Spirit of New Flowers." This name captures both the ethereal essence of floral beauty and the freshness of something novel, highlighting Guerlain's intention to bring forth a new interpretation of an older, beloved formula. The word "esprit" suggests something more than just a scent—it evokes the soul, the very spirit of the flowers themselves, adding an element of depth and sophistication. By including "nouvelles," meaning "new," Guerlain nods to a renewal, a rebirth of this floral creation for a new era.

The name "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" would evoke images of vibrant gardens filled with fresh blossoms at the peak of their bloom, the air heavy with the intoxicating, delicate scent of flowers. It calls to mind the freshness of spring mornings, where the light is soft, and the world feels rejuvenated after winter’s dormancy. The emotional tone behind the name is one of renewal, grace, and elegance, suggesting a fragrance that would embody both timeless femininity and modern sensibilities.

In scent, Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely open with a light, airy bouquet of crisp, dewy florals, capturing the freshness of newly bloomed petals. The fragrance would have delicate, almost transparent top notes, leading into a heart of richer, headier blossoms. Perhaps the scent would echo the original floral composition of Esprit de Fleurs from 1828, but with new ingredients introduced to reflect contemporary tastes of the 1920s. The emphasis on "new flowers" could also hint at the inclusion of more exotic or recently discovered floral essences that were becoming popular in modern perfumery.

For the women of the late 19th century, a perfume called Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would have felt refined, embodying the delicate femininity and romantic ideals of the time. Floral perfumes were deeply connected with notions of purity, beauty, and grace, all of which aligned with the societal expectations of women during this period. A woman wearing Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely have felt as though she was draped in the finest blooms, exuding elegance and subtle charm.

When Guerlain reformulated the fragrance in 1923, it was an opportunity to bring the perfume into the modern age while still honoring its heritage. By that time, perfumery had undergone a transformation. The introduction of synthetic ingredients alongside traditional natural essences allowed for more complex, long-lasting fragrances. Guerlain’s decision to reformulate with modern ingredients not only reflected the advancements in perfume chemistry but also catered to the evolving preferences of their clientele. The 1920s were a period of great social and cultural change, with women embracing newfound independence and boldness in fashion and lifestyle. A perfume like Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles, with its connection to the past but crafted for the present, would have resonated with modern women who still cherished timeless elegance but desired something more contemporary and daring.

By relaunching Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles on the brink of their 100-year anniversary, Maison Guerlain demonstrated their mastery of tradition while showing their readiness to adapt and innovate. The reformulation was symbolic, offering a modernized homage to the original creation from 1828, ensuring that it could continue to captivate future generations with its refined floral allure.

 

Violette qui Embaume c1904

Guerlain’s Violette qui Embaume, (also spelled Violette Qu'Embaume), launched in 1904, carries a name that poetically reflects the essence of its composition. Translated from French, "Violette qui Embaume" means "Violet that Embalms" or "Violet that Wafts Scent." The word "embaume" evokes imagery of a violet flower so richly fragrant that its scent envelops the air, filling the surroundings with its natural beauty. This was the phrase of the flower sellers in Paris, where a bunch cost two pence. This phrase captures the experience of being in a lush garden of violets, their delicate fragrance carried on a soft breeze. It’s a name that speaks to the era's romantic sensibilities, a time when flowers symbolized femininity, elegance, and the ethereal nature of beauty.

In scent, Violette qui Embaume would be interpreted as a soliflore—a fragrance built around a single floral note. Here, the violet stands front and center, with its powdery, slightly sweet and woody qualities. The name conjures an image of dew-covered violets at dawn, the soft, almost velvety petals exuding their scent with a quiet but persistent strength. The addition of vetiver as a base note grounds the delicate violet, providing an earthy, slightly smoky depth to balance its inherent sweetness. Together, these notes evoke a blend of innocence and sophistication—a fragrance that is at once delicate and rooted in natural richness.

Women of the early 20th century would have embraced a perfume called Violette qui Embaume as an expression of refined taste and feminine grace. At the time, violet perfumes were incredibly popular, signifying purity, modesty, and the gentle elegance admired in women of the era. The violet flower was a staple in many women’s gardens, and its scent was familiar, comforting, and subtly seductive. With the industrial revolution still in progress, there was a growing appreciation for nature, and floral fragrances allowed women to carry a piece of the natural world with them. Violette qui Embaume would have resonated deeply with the women of the period, offering them a sense of connection to both nature and the refined aesthetics of French perfumery.

Violette a Deux Sous c1890

"Violette à Deux Sous," launched by Guerlain around 1890, is a whimsical and evocative name that translates from French to "Twopenny Violet." This playful title cleverly nods to one of the early postage stamps, a “two sous” stamp, making it a witty pun by Guerlain. By choosing this name, Guerlain infused the fragrance with a sense of accessibility, charm, and nostalgia, while hinting at the modest price point of the stamp, which made it an everyday item. The name evokes an image of violets—delicate and fragrant—paired with a sense of something simple yet precious, like a small token sent by mail, a message sealed with affection.

The word "Violette à Deux Sous" conjures emotions of lightness, spring, and subtle luxury. The violet, a flower that symbolizes modesty, love, and innocence, would have brought to mind for women of the time an ethereal, tender scent associated with femininity. In the late 19th century, violets were immensely popular in both fashion and fragrance. The scent of violets had become a cornerstone of perfumery, often used to evoke romance and nostalgia, making this perfume likely to appeal to women who desired an elegant, classic floral scent with a touch of playfulness. The title "Twopenny Violet" would have been perceived as charming, affordable yet sophisticated, inviting women to enjoy a little indulgence reminiscent of love letters or secret admirations exchanged with the simplicity of a postage stamp.

Ai Loe by Guerlain c1905

Aï Loé by Guerlain, launched in 1905 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a name that evokes mystery and intrigue. The origin of the name "Aï Loé" is uncertain, though it could potentially be derived from various linguistic sources. One possibility is that it comes from the Tamil word for "loyal," with "Ai" meaning "I," though this remains speculative. In the world of perfumery at the time, it was common for names to carry exotic or foreign-sounding elements, suggesting far-off lands, and Guerlain could have crafted the name to convey a sense of elegance and allure. Alternatively, it could be a play on an earlier perfume called "Ki Loe du Japon" or "Ki Loc," popular in formulary books of the 19th and early 20th centuries, with slight alterations by Guerlain to make it uniquely his own.

The name "Aï Loé" conjures images of distant, romantic lands and exoticism. It hints at travel, mystery, and an alluring sense of devotion or loyalty, making it an evocative choice for a perfume in the early 20th century. For women of the time, the name would have likely evoked a sense of elegance and sophistication, appealing to the era's fascination with the exotic, which was very much in vogue in the early 1900s. The word "Loé" might evoke floral delicacy or softness, while "Aï" could suggest a personal, intimate connection, as though the fragrance speaks directly to the wearer. Together, they form a name that feels both intimate and far-reaching, suggesting a unique personal expression through scent.

In terms of how the fragrance itself was interpreted, Aï Loé carried the sensual, luxurious qualities that were becoming hallmarks of Guerlain’s creations during this period. The perfume was interpreted in scent as an alluring blend of soft florals, exotic woods, and hints of oriental resins and musk—a composition that transported the wearer to an imaginary, far-flung land. With the reworking of an earlier formula, Guerlain would have retained traditional elements of perfumery while adding his own distinctive touch, perhaps modernizing the blend with new notes or balancing it with a French sensibility of refinement.

L'Heure De Nuit c2012

L’Heure De Nuit: created in 2012, by Thierry Wasser. The new fragrance for women is a beautiful, sparkling modern interpretation flanker to the original 1912 fragrance, L’Heure Bleue.

Painting: Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, La Grande Odalisque, 1814

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau Si Sensuelle c2013

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau Si Sensuelle: created in 2013 by Thierry Wasser, as a new limited edition collector's flacon. The scent has not been changed.

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca c2013

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca: created in 2013 by Thierry Wasser, who tried to reconstruct every fraction of a bitter orange tree; from its flowers, fruits and twigs to leaves.

Guerlain Home Fragrances - Les Parfums d'Interieur

Any perfume house worth its extrait is now adding home fragrances to its range, enabling perfume-lovers to infuse their homes with the same scent they spritz behind their ears. As early as the 19th century, Guerlain offered numerous scents for the home. Many people may not know that Guerlain has currently has a home fragrance range including: room sprays, candles, incense sticks and soaps. They are only available from their flagship store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris, usually only sold in their boutique and some are even given away for gifts with purchase or to special VIP clients.

180g (6.4oz) candles retailing at $95 each.

Candles:

Bois des Indes (Indian Woods): it's spiced woods scent recalls an intense journey to the sacred heart of India. Another place that transports you into the cool air of an agreement of crushed leaves revived by the sparkle fruity rhubarb. The mild sweetness of sandalwood weaves jasmine petals on a bed of vanilla.

Fleurs Des Iles (Island Flowers): based on the Aqua Allegoria scent Lys Soleia.Top notes: bergamot, lemon and palm leaves. Heart: lily, ylang-ylang, and tropical fruits. Base: tuberose, vanilla and white musk.

Boudoir Vénitien (Venetian Boudoir): its powdery floral scent imagines an intimate moment in Italy.Venetian Boudoir is a tribute to the warm interior and baroque. The intimacy of a cozy alcove nimbus of a tender and sweet scent that starts on blackcurrant. The Parma violet then whispers its secrets to the rich leather of Cordova, in a cloud of scent of rice powder. 

Forêt de Sumatra (Sumatran Forest):  its  exotic woody scent is inspired by the imaginary scenery of the Indonesian forest, with notes of moss, jasmine, ylang-ylang, smoked tea, vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean and patchouli. On the occasion of its launch, the design of the entire candle collection has been changed into a heavier, shiny glass jar bearing Guerlain's revived Sun King symbol. c2013.

Pot Pourri Parisien: (Parisian Potpourri): A stroll through the heart of the French capital, an encounter on the banks of the Seine, a stolen kiss… A bouquet of aromas with enchanting lingering notes. Paris, the city of temptations, where the sweet smell of cinnamon flirts with patchouli and sandalwood. A potpourri of scents, like a vague memory of yesteryear. Audacious Paris. Romantic Paris. Paris, I love you. Oriental, Aromatic. An olfactory reference to Jicky. Notes of orange, petit grain, neroli, mint, rosemary, marjoram, cinnamon, geranium, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin. c2013.

Pluie De Petales (Mist of Petals): the fragrance is inspired by the perfume Idylle.

Hiver en Russie (Russian Winter): its woodsy oriental fragrance recalls shivering at the sumptuous frosty Slavic palace . Contrast between the warmth of golden domes and snow white ... It gets inside and discovers a mystical fragrance from precious woods and incense. Gradually, the warm amber reassurance and shuddered at the touch of clove exploding overwhelming sensuality. Recollecting the pleasure of dazzling palaces and the luxuriousness of Russia under the Tsars. The perfumed tea of a samovar gets together with the smell of wax. The precious ashes enriched with myrrh illustrate the gold churches' mystic splendor. 

Contes Tahitiens (Tahitian Fairy-Tales): its friuty and solar scent recalls the exotic scents of the islands ... Reminiscent of lush shores where time languished, Tales Tahitians breathes like a whirlwind of sunflowers sweet tiare of fresh guava, which capsized on the creamy sweetness of sandalwood Marquesas and sensuality of vanilla Raiatea.

Route de la Soie (The Silk Road): Inspired by the fragrance of Guerlain's Samsara perfume.

Orchidee Imperiale: Contains the signature scent of the Orchidee Imperiale skincare line..

Un Instant au Soleil (A Moment in the Sun): a soapy floral, I do not have the notes on this or which Guerlain perfume inspired it, it may be a reference to the Terracotta line or AA Bouquet No.1 or AA Jasminora or L'Instant perfume.

Le Temps Des Lilas (Lilac Time): a lilac soliflore candle from the early 1980s. Found on an empty candle holder with label on base, "LE TEMPS DES LILAS Guerlain Scented Candle 175 grams Copyright 1983." Referenced in Le Figaro magazine, 1985.

Fougeres (Ferns): a fern (fougere) candle from the early 1980s, also known as Fougere No.5. Referenced in Le Figaro magazine, 1985.

photo by ebay seller books-cds-etceter

Bougie Parfumee Orchidee Imperiale

A six candle VIP set included:

• 2 x 75g Fleurs Des Iles 
• 2 x 75g Pluie De Petales/ Mist of Petals 
• 2 x 75g Route de la Soie / The Silk Road

photo by ebay seller fragrance_shoppe

Home Fragrance Spray:

Eau de Lit: 

From Guerlain:

"Guerlain reinvents one of the most delicate traditions with Eau de Lit. Its ritual unfolds like a love story. When night falls, the mischievous and sensual Guerlain woman perfumes her sheets with Eau de Lit. As if by enchantment, her nights are bathed in a cosy, glamorous atmosphere, ideal for games of seduction. The bottle is adorned with a label, like pink and gold lace, and a pink ribbon around the neck.

 Dispense a few drops on your pillow at night before going to bed and spray on the sheets, like an invitation to games of seduction. A delicate touch on your curtains refreshes the room. 

When you travel, slip it into your suitcase to recreate your little haven of pleasure in your hotel room with this very soothing fragrance."

A fragrance that you can spray onto your bedding. Could also be used as a room spray. 30ml. It is classified as a fresh, musky floral fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, coriander leaf, star anise, aromatic notes
• Heart notes: green note, Tunisian neroli
• Base notes: sage, vanilla, white musks, cedarwood

Eau de Lingerie: 

From Guerlain:

"The skin is kissed by fragrance and caressed by lingerie, which is given a new beauty step by Guerlain. A new delicate fragrance to spray on underthings, like an invitation to an unprecedented moment of sensuality. An original embrace to perfume your most chic undergarments and set the senses awhirl. An invitation to voluptuousness… An ideal gift for someone special or yourself! 

Spray Eau de Lingerie on the dainty satin of a nightie, on the bow adorning the strap of a bra or on the lace of a negligee. Or spray a light mist in your lingerie drawers. This new beauty ritual harmonises with all fragrances."

It is classified as a musky floral fragrance for women.  It contains notes of iris, rose, vanilla, sandalwood, white musk and ambrette. A fragrance you can spray onto your lingerie. Could also be used as a room spray or sprayed onto your bedding. 125ml.

Eau de Cashmere: 

From Guerlain:

"A unisex fragrance to spray directly on your favourite jumper or scarf, for the ultimate touch of elegance. Perfumers reveal their latest secret to scenting your favourite items of clothing. This original and unique way of applying perfume can be used with any scent from the l'Art & la Matière collection, for an irresistibly elegant fragrant trail. 

L'Eau de Cashmere is a new ritual created to enhance your signature scent. Designed to be worn with any of the fragrances from the Art & Matière collection, it gives a twist to your perfume, adding a gentle, woody note that is both enveloping and reassuring. A perfumer’s secret reserved for those in the know, offering a unique fragrant trail."

A unisex fragrance created for you to spray directly on your favorite sweaters and cashmere stoles for a cocooning effect of the smartest kind.  125ml. Eau de Toilette.

• Top notes: bergamot and mandarin
• Middle notes: iris and lavender 
• Base notes: cedar, vetiver and musk

Orchidee Imperiale: 

Contains the signature scent of the Orchidee Imperiale skincare line, I have seen this referenced as the scent of Guerlain's beautiful Nahema perfume. Orchidée Impériale fragrance, discreet and refined, luxurious and feminine. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. Could also be used as a room spray. 125ml/4.2oz

• Top notes: rose, anise
• Middle notes: white orchid accord, bourbon geranium 
• Base notes: woody notes of cedar, vanilla

photo from ebay seller germ1123

Voile de Poudre (Powdery Softness): 

It has a pronounced violet scent. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. Could also be used as a room spray. 125 mL/ 4.2 fl oz

photo by ebay seller rosrey

Meteorites Home Fragrance Spray:

Smells just like the Meteorites makeup. Comes in a 125ml/4.2oz bottle.

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Orchidee Imperiale Home Fragrance c2011

Orchidee Imperiale Parfum D'Interieur Ambience Home Fragrance Spray: created in 2011. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. It was a giveaway with purchase only at the Guerlain boutiques. It is not for retail sale which makes it a rare commodity.


Another scented home fragrance item was produced, the 6.3 oz Orchidee Imperiale candle.


So what does it smell like? It has a pronounced signature scent from the scent from the Orchidee Imperiale skincare range


Available in the following:

• 125ml/4.2oz

Bougie Parfumee Orchidee Imperiale

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Voile de Poudre Home Ambience Spray c2011

Voile de Poudre (Powdery Softness) Ambience Home Fragrance Spray: created in 2011. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. It was a giveaway with purchase only at the Guerlain boutiques. It is not for retail sale.


So what does it smell like? It has a pronounced violet scent.

Available in the following:

• 125 ml/ 4.2 fl oz

photo by ebay seller rosrey

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Samsara c1989

Samsara by Guerlain: launched in 1989. Created by Jean Paul Guerlain.

Eau de Cologne Imperiale c1853

Eau de Cologne Imperiale: launched in 1853. Created by Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain for the Empress Eugenie.

Guerlain's First USA Boutique c1984

From a press release fro 1984:


"The House of Guerlain is proud to announce the opening in April, 1984 of their first boutique in the United States. In keeping with the Guerlain tradition of uncompromising devotion to quality and refinement, the boutique will be in Bergdorf Goodman on Fifth Avenue, New York City.

The inauguration of the boutique has been planned tp coincide with the American launch of Issima, Guerlain’s luxury skin care line which will be offered exclusively at Bergdorf. Issima, a complete revitalizing beauty treatment range containing Hydrolastine, has been very successful worldwide since its introduction in 1980.

The Guerlain boutique at Bergdorf will carry severa other exclusive offerings as well as all the fragrances currently sold in the United States. The newly available fragrances will be:

• Eau de Cologne du Coq, created in 1894.
• Apres L‘Ondee, created in 1906
• Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat, created in 1920
• Vol de Nuit, created in 1933
• Eau de Guerlain, created in 1974

Also in the new boutique, will be the complete line of the famous Guerlain floral soaps of iris, geranium, jasmin, fleurs des alpes, and savon de jeune age.

The rotunda on the First Floor of Bergdorf Goodman has been beautifully redesigned to be evocative of the Guerlain boutique on the Champs-Elysees in Paris."

Habit Rouge L'Extrait c2008

Habit Rouge L'Extrait: created as a limited edition in 2008, Habit Rouge L'Extrait soon proved so popular that it was decided to make a new batch each year. Unlike Guerlain's best-sellers, Habit Rouge L'Extrait is not in continuous production.


From Guerlain:

"Created in 1965, Habit Rouge was the first oriental fragrance for men in perfumery. From the moment of its launch, this tribute to Guerlain's passion for the dressage of horses created an element of surprise with its scents of sensual and bold vanilla. An oriental that is by turns citrusy, warm and accented with vanilla, it expresses the genius of contrast and well-mastered emotions. 

Habit Rouge incarnates a man who is enamoured of refinement and capable of all manner of audacity. He lives his life fervently and distinguishes himself with a trail of extreme sensuality.  

With its modern geometry and mastery of form, Habit Rouge has an eternally elegant French appeal. 

Oriental. 

Rich, enveloping, audacious. 

Habit Rouge L'Extrait is a fragrance with multi-facetted voluptuousness and a devilishly ardent spicy heart. Its base, revealing Guerlinade notes of vanilla and patchouli, as well as leathery notes, is twice as exhilarating. 

Habit Rouge L'Extrait is one of the very first men's extracts in perfumery. Created in 2008, it met with immediate success."

Aavilable as:

• 50 ml spray 
• 500ml bee flacon 
• 1000 ml bee flacon

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Paradis Interdit c2011

Paradis Interdit: created in 2011, exclusive, limited edition. To compose the new perfume, Thierry Wasser, drew his inspiration from the book of formulas containing the secrets of Guerlain perfumes for over 180 years. Forbidden Paradise, a name loaded with wonders and mysteries.

Reve de Lune c2012

Reve de Lune: created in 2012, is simply a reissue of Jean-Paul Guerlain's Metallica, a limited edition Eau de Toilette from 2000 (subsequently renamed Metalys), reworked by Thierry Wasser to constitute Parfum concentration.

L'Abeille de Guerlain c2010

L'Abeille de Guerlain: launched in 2010 as a limited edition fragrance housed in an exceptional limited edition collector's flacon. Fragrance created by Thierry Wasser.

Eau de Cologne du Coq by Guerlain c1894

Eau de Cologne du Coq: is a citrus aromatic fragrance for men, launched in 1894. The nose behind this fragrance is Aime Guerlain. It was also known as "Eau du Coq". This was created for a friend of Aime's, the distinguished French actor Benoît-Constant Coquelin, , whose nickname was le Coq (the Fool (foolish but having the slyness of a rogue), or the little Rooster).

Eau de Cologne du 68 c2006

Eau de Cologne du 68: created in 2006, by Sophie Labbe. When it was first launched, it was exclusive to the Paris boutique, but has been released in a 100ml size flacon, in limited distribution since 2008, in conjuction with Guerlain's 180 year anniversary. The fragrance is now sold only in the 250ml bottle.

Eau de Camélia et Vétiver c1834

Eau de Camélia et Vétiver: created by Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain in 1834.

A Travers Champs by Guerlain c1898

 À Travers Champs, launched in 1898 by Aimé Guerlain, is a fragrance that captures the essence of the countryside. The name, which translates from French as "Across the Fields," evokes a sense of peaceful meandering through open meadows filled with blooming flowers. It suggests a break from the constraints of urban life, a moment of freedom in nature where one can enjoy the simple beauty of the outdoors. The choice of name reflects Guerlain's intent to craft a perfume that connects its wearer with the natural world, evoking imagery of walking through vast expanses of wildflowers under a clear sky. The title speaks to a bucolic dream, one where the breeze carries the delicate scent of flowers across open fields, inviting feelings of nostalgia, serenity, and natural beauty.

In scent, "À Travers Champs" would embody the freshness and sweetness of field flowers. Since it was based on the flowers of the fields, it would likely have included notes reminiscent of wild roses, daisies, violets, and other delicate blossoms commonly found in meadows. The scent profile would be light, airy, and floral, capturing the purity of untouched nature. Guerlain's expertise in blending these floral elements would have made the fragrance soft yet uplifting, as if one were inhaling the clean, fresh air of a country garden. The incorporation of both natural extracts and emerging synthetics would have enhanced the fragrance's ability to create the illusion of walking through fields in bloom. The natural ingredients would provide authenticity and depth, while the synthetic elements could prolong the fragrance's longevity and complexity, resulting in a harmonious balance.

Women of the time would have likely found "À Travers Champs" deeply appealing. The idea of a fragrance based on meadow flowers would resonate with a romanticized vision of nature and purity, which was particularly cherished during the late 19th century. Many women in this era were drawn to perfumes that connected them to nature, especially as industrialization transformed cities into bustling centers of commerce and pollution. Wearing a scent like "À Travers Champs" would have allowed them to momentarily escape the busy urban environment and embody a more natural, serene persona. The fragrance would have symbolized an idealized rural life, one full of innocence and simplicity, while also serving as a reminder of the fleeting beauty of nature.

Attrape Coeur c2005

Attrape Coeur: (Heart Catcher) This fragrance was first released as a limited edition in 1999 under the name of Guet-Apens (Ambush).

Over the years it has gone through several incarnations:

• 1999 Guet Apens 
• 2002 No.68   
• 2005 Attrape Cœur eau de toilette
• 2007 Vol de Nuit Evasion
• 2014 Royal Extract 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an ambery floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: peach and cinnamon
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, violet, iris, tuberose
• Base notes: orris, vanilla, musk, leather, sandalwood, amber and oakmoss

Bottles:

Presented in a white bee bottle, part of the Les Parisiennes line.

• 125ml eau de parfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 2010.

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Guet-Apens c1999

Guet-Apens: created in 1999 by Mathilde Laurent, as a limited edition.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fruity fragrance for women.

• Top notes: jasmine, tuberose, violet
• Middle notes: peach, rose
• Base notes: amber, musk, vetiver and vanilla

Bottle:

Presented in the 4 oz Lanterne flacon (eau de parfum).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guet-Apens (discontinued), then reissued in 2002 as No.68 (discontinued), then reorchestrated and renamed Attrape Cœur in 2005 (discontinued) , then renamed and relaunched as Vol de Nuit Evasion in 2007 (discontinued), then launched again in 2014 as Royal Extract.

Insolence Shimmering Edition c2008

Insolence Shimmering Edition: created in 2008 by Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte.

Insolence Eau Glacee c2009

Insolence Eau Glacee: created for summer 2009. Another kind of olfactive insolence arrives from the house of Guerlain in light violet nuances with an icy accent.

From Guerlain:

An icy fragrance that makes you melt with pleasure! A refreshing idea for a scent that never loses its cool The result is the new Insolence Eau Glacée. The favourite notes of Insolence reveal themselves in a new light: Berries glisten with frost, violet petals seem ready to melt and iris offers wonderful lightness and luxurious airiness.

Insolence Blooming - Collector's Bottle c2009

Insolence Blooming: created in 2009, a limited edition.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is the same composition as the original Insolence eau de toilette. Only the bottle design is slightly different, as it is meant as a collector's edition.

Bottle:

Available as:

• 50 ml eau de toilette

Insolence c2006

Insolence: created in 2006 by Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte. It is a new bold fragrance for young women, first introduced in an eau de toilette concentration, it was in 2008 that we were introduced to the eau de parfum concentration, also created by Roucel and Delacourte. This perfume will most probably surprise the Guerlain perfumes fans, as it is rather unusual, modern and fruity sweet. But, Guerlain is not afraid to surprise, and even provoke.

L'Instant Magic c2007

L'Instant Magic: created in 2007 by Randa Hammami and Sylvie Delacourte.

L`Instant Fleur de Mandarine c2007

L`Instant de Guerlain Fleur de Mandarine: created in 2007, as a limited edition.

La Petite Robe Noire c2009

La Petite Robe Noire: (The Little Black Dress). Originally created by Sylvaine Delacourte & Delphine Jelk, introduced in 2009 as a limited edition.

Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus c2009

Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus: Created in 2009 by Jean Paul Guerlain, a fragrant picture of a Japanese woman, Mitsouko, was presented with a new fragrance by the house of Guerlain - Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus.

“Mitsouko is really a masterpiece,” says Jean-Paul Guerlain, “I did not want to betray my grandfather’s, so I added a freshness to the scent with spices and white musk to give a modernity to it without changing the original scent.”

Mi-Mai by Guerlain c1914

Mi-Mai by Guerlain, launched in 1914 and created by Jacques Guerlain, draws its name from a quintessentially French tradition. The name "Mi-Mai," pronounced "Mee-May," translates to "Mid-May" in English, reflecting the fragrance's homage to the early days of May. This period is particularly significant in French culture, as it marks the celebration of Labor Day on May 1st, a day when people traditionally exchange sprigs of muguet (lily of the valley) as symbols of good luck and renewal. The name evokes images of spring’s fresh beginnings and the delicate, bell-shaped blooms that symbolize this joyous time.

In the context of the perfume, Mi-Mai is classified as a green floral fragrance for women, capturing the essence of spring’s vitality. The scent is interpreted through its dominant notes of lily of the valley, which infuses the fragrance with a crisp, verdant freshness reminiscent of a garden in full bloom. This green quality is balanced with floral notes that evoke the delicate beauty and lightness of the muguet, intertwined with a subtly sweet and earthy undertone.

The time period of Mi-Mai’s launch, just before World War I, was characterized by a burgeoning appreciation for sophisticated, refined fragrances that mirrored the elegance and cultural richness of early 20th-century Europe. Lilies of the valley were highly prized in perfumery for their delicate, sweet scent and their symbolic association with purity and spring’s renewal. Guerlain, known for its meticulous sourcing of raw materials, would have procured these flowers from reputable growers in France, where the region's climate and soil conditions are ideal for cultivating such aromatic blooms.

Extrait Nice, Dear c1883

Extrait Nice, Dear: launched in 1883 or 1893. This perfume was created to commemorate Great Britain and was named in honour of the goddess Nike (Nice).

In Greek mythology, Nike, was a goddess who personified victory, also known as the Winged Goddess of Victory. The Roman equivalent was Victoria.

Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain c1873

Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain was launched in 1873. Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. Composed especially for Elise Hensler, countess d’Edla, Queen of Portugal, based on the old castle of Cintra (Sintra), a favorite residence of the Portuguese Royal family, also known as the Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros).

Bouquet de la Contesse d'Edla by Guerlain: launched in 1873. Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The perfume was created for Elise, Countess of Edla (born Elise Friedericke Hensler; 22 May 1836 – 21 May 1929), a Swiss-born American actress and singer, and the morganatic second wife of the former King Ferdinand II of Portugal.

Bouquet de Marie Christine by Guerlain c1885

Bouquet de Marie Christine, launched around 1885, is a fragrance steeped in regal significance and historical context. The name, "Bouquet de Marie Christine," translates from French to "Bouquet of Marie Christine." This title directly references Maria Cristina of Austria, who was not only a prominent figure in European royalty but also a symbol of transitional power in Spain. As Queen Consort alongside her husband, Alfonso XII, and later as Queen Regent during the interregnum following his death in 1885, Maria Cristina played a crucial role in Spanish history.

The choice of name evokes a rich tapestry of images and emotions. "Bouquet" suggests a carefully curated arrangement of flowers, indicative of sophistication and elegance. The addition of "Marie Christine" personalizes this bouquet, linking it to a specific individual whose life and influence marked a significant historical moment. The fragrance thus carries with it the weight of royal grandeur and personal homage.

In terms of scent, "Bouquet de Marie Christine" would be interpreted as a composition reflecting the refined and noble qualities associated with the Queen. The fragrance likely captures the essence of her regal presence through a complex, opulent blend of floral notes, possibly accompanied by richer, more luxurious base elements. This combination would evoke the sophisticated and cultivated nature of Maria Cristina, while also paying tribute to her elevated status.

Women of the period, who were often closely attuned to the latest trends and influences from the court, would have seen "Bouquet de Marie Christine" as a symbol of high society and refined taste. The perfume would be more than just a scent; it would be an embodiment of the elegance and authority of a queen regent, offering them a way to connect with the regal allure of Maria Cristina.

The time during which this perfume was launched was marked by significant political and social shifts. Maria Cristina’s regency, a transitional period between her husband's death and the birth of her son Alfonso XIII, was a time of both uncertainty and anticipation for Spain. Guerlain's creation of a perfume in her honor was not only a tribute to her personal dignity and grace but also a continuation of the brand's tradition of crafting fragrances for the royal and elite circles of Europe. This period saw Guerlain consolidating its reputation for bespoke creations for heads of state and nobility, solidifying its place as a purveyor of luxury and refinement.

Jicky c1889

Jicky by Guerlain: originally created in 1889. It is a classical fragrance and, despite the age, it is timeless and still very modern.

According to the legend, the perfume was named after a girl Aimé Guerlain was in love with when he was a student in England, and then it was said that the perfume was named after his uncle Jacques Guerlain’s nickname – Jicky.

It is more likely, though, that Aimé, a gay man, was hiding his love for someone else named Jacques and someone at Guerlain created the story of a long lost female love to hide his sexuality and to protect the reputation of Guerlain during the late 1800s, which is not unreasonable given the time period.

In 1911, Gabriel Guerlain said "the name Jicky (diminutive of Jack) was the familiar name of one of my many sons when he was a child. As we found it original we gave it to one of our scents."