Visage de Nuée Face Powder c1945

In 1945, Guerlain introduced it's "Visage de Nuée" (Face Cloud) face powder.  This lattice design shown on the boxes was imitating limed wood and was also popular on the perfume presentation boxes for Coque D'Or, Dawamesk and Kriss.

c1952 ad

Jicky in Argentina

Here is a carre flacon for Jicky, the old foil label is marked "Extrait Jicky" and "Industria Argentina" at the top of the label, as you can see, the label is in very bad shape. The base of the bottle is embossed with Guerlain France Paris and the one side has the Woman with Flags logo. The bottle is 4.0" approx. tall.

This finished product was produced in Argentina with Guerlain's imported French concentrated extracts for the South American market.

photo by ebay seller other-time

Oeillet 000 by Guerlain c1880

Oeillet 000 by Guerlain: launched in the 1880s. This perfume is also known as Triple Extract of Carnation. The 000 after the name means that this is a triple-strength floral extract.

Ebay Find - FAKE Liu

The listing states that this is an "ULTRA RARE VINTAGE GUERLAIN PERFUME " LIU ".... GLASS BOTTLE WITH FROSTED STOPPER .... LAUNCHED IN 1927 .... UNKNOWN BOTTLE FOR GUERLAIN .... PERHAPS A LITTLE WAR PRODUCTION .... NEVER SEEN ON EBAY ....  SMALL SIZE 2/3  FULL AND SEALED WITH ORIGINAL BOX .... VERY GOOD VINTAGE CONDITION FOR BOTH BOTTLE AND BOX .... SIZE OF THE BOTTLE IS 6,7 X 4,9 X 1,9 CM OR 2,6 X 1,9 X 0,75 INCH .... A MUSEUM BOTTLE FOR GUERLAIN COLLECTOR'S ...."

The truth:

This bottle is a clever fake and I will tell you why.

Bottle: The bottle itself is 1920s and older and was never a bottle used by Guerlain. It is a much cheaper manufactured bottle than a luxury company like Guerlain would have used.

Labels: It is not hard to find loose labels or bottles online. It would be easy to apply a loose label to any bottle. A second the label was applied to the box.

Box: This box style was never used by Guerlain and appears to be blue and gold, not a color combination used for Liu. Not even during the war years. There are two very specific bottles used for wartime presentations, and this is not one of them.

Trimming: The baudruchage cording and metal seal appears to be taken from a Shalimar bottle. 

Sticker on base: The label on the bottom of the bottle appears to have been soaked off another Guerlain bottle, this particular label was used from 1930s, during the World War II, and until end of 1940s. 

I have never seen this flacon used by Guerlain...ever....I am suspect of this flacon and even more so by the condition of the tax stamp on the base of the bottle. It looks as if it was wet and loosened from another bottle and affixed onto this one. The condition of the tax stamp should be near pristine as the rest of the bottle, the labels and the box. This bothers me.

Also, I believe that two labels were removed from two genuine Liu flacons and affixed to this bottle and box. A genuine Guerlain baudruchage was removed from a bottle and added to this bottle to "complete" it.  Look at the bottom edges of the label on the bottle, see how they have been dog eared?

I know that Guerlain did use different flacons over the years due to wartime shortages and special editions, but can someone please explain this one? Is it really a genuine Guerlain bottle and presentation or is it a cleverly made fake? I think the latter. I do not propose that the current seller did this, as he has had several genuine flacons over the years. I believe he may have purchased this from an unscrupulous seller at one time and himself was duped into believing that this is a rare example. Let me know  your thoughts.

Could this be the smaller limited edition Flacon Plat by Pochet et du Courval in 1929???...

Flacon Plat (Flat) c1910-1959

Limited edition flacons created by Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Kadine, Djedi and L'Heure Bleue.

Baccarat:

• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 7.7cm/3.03" (limited edition of only 500 in 1916) 
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - (limited edition of only 500 in 1916) 

Pochet et du Courval:

• 20ml/0.676 oz - 5.5cm/2.17" (1929)

now this is what the Liu flacon should look like...photo from Quirky Finds

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Ebay Find! Vague Souvenir in Quadrilobe Flacon

Ebay Find! Vintage Vague Souvenir extrait in 2/3 oz Quadrilobe Flacon.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-ORIGINAL-VINTAGE-BOTTLE-Guerlain-VAGUE-SOUVENIR-Quadrilobe-/331102634395?pt=fragrance&hash=item4d1741419b

photo by ebay seller katybgood1

Vague Souvenir: created in 1912. Available in parfum extract, toilet water and lotion vegetale.


What does it smell like? Notes of aldehydes, sweet peach, gardenia, plum.

Presented in the quadrilobe bottle. In the mid to late 1920s, it was presented in the beurre flacon, created by Baccarat for the 1925 Art Deco Expo in Paris. The label represents the crystal fountain created by Lalique for the expo's grand pavilion.

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1960.

Ladies In All Climates - Face Powder c1897

Ladies in all climates, universal light powder...

Guerlain reinvents one of its legendary powder in a limited and numbered series. Once upon a time in 1897, the Ladies in all climates powder which was intended to illuminate and refresh the complexion. At the Impressionist painters and photography, Guerlain wanted to capture the elusive atmospheric variations. New transport available to women traveling in all latitudes and Guerlain continued to expand worldwide. It was then apply to all women, whatever they are, wherever they are.

Ladies In All Climates was a natural evolution of the product. Sun exposure was taboo at the time, so the powder was formulated in 1897 to help women retain their pale coloring after being in the sun of the French colonies.

,

Harper's Weekly, 1903:

"Beware all face powders which have the effect of whitening too much. The major part of these powders contain chemically active constituents which in time spoil the skin. Guerlain's powder 'Ladies in all Climates' is a product which is absolutely harmless, it vivifies the complexion and my ladies, prudence counsels you not to seek further effects from its use."

The Queenslander, Saturday 25 December 1915:

"Guerlain (15 Rue de la Paix, Paris) With his most respectful compliments calls attention to his POWDER. LADIES IN ALL CLIMATES. This Powder, which is made in four shades, White, Rachael, Pink, and Flesh Colour, is an absolutely neutral product; it cannot affect in any way the epidermis. Moreover, it is soft, and has a very agreeable perfume. It is so much neutral that it can be used during any medical treatment, even with sulphurous baths."

In 2013, Guerlain reissued exclusively 400 numbered pieces of this exceptional powder still halo skin in a veil of delicate and transparent light.

Le 68 Cologne Fond de Cuve c2013

Le 68 Cologne Fond de Cuve by Guerlain: launched in 2013.

Geranium by Guerlain c1849

Geranium: launched in 1849. Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain.

POST-CHRISTMAS PERFUME SALE!!!

POST-CHRISTMAS PERFUME SALE!!! Save 20% off ANY purchase with coupon code AFTERXMAS2013, expires 1/31/14.

Chypre by Guerlain c1844

Guerlain's decision to name their 1844 fragrance "Chypre" is rooted in the deep historical and cultural significance of the term. "Chypre," the French word for Cyprus, refers to the Mediterranean island long associated with aromatic materials and ancient perfumery traditions. Since antiquity, Cyprus was famed for its natural materials, including resins, florals, and herbs, used in perfumery and incense. By the 19th century, the term "Chypre" came to define a fragrance style that combined citrus, floral, and woody notes with a distinct mossy, earthy undertone. For Guerlain, selecting the name "Chypre" was a nod to this rich heritage and a way to evoke the exotic allure of the Mediterranean—a blend of sophistication, nature, and timelessness.

The word "Chypre" itself conjures images of sun-drenched landscapes, rolling hills filled with cypress trees, and the salty breeze of the Mediterranean Sea. It evokes an air of exotic mystery, transporting the wearer to distant lands and a bygone era of ancient beauty and sensuality. The name suggests a scent that is earthy, grounded, and yet filled with light and freshness—a juxtaposition of nature's richness and breezy elegance. Emotions of nostalgia, refinement, and an understated but powerful allure might be brought to the surface when thinking of "Chypre." In scent, the word would translate to a complex blend of bright citrus, softened by a heart of floral opulence, all wrapped in a base of oakmoss, amber, and woods—a harmony of freshness and depth.

During the 19th century, both men and women would have responded to a fragrance named "Chypre" with admiration and a sense of connection to ancient history. For men, it may have evoked strength and nature, rooted in the earthiness of moss and wood. For women, the floral and citrus elements would have spoken to grace and femininity, balanced with a deeper, more complex undertone. In an era of Romanticism, with an emphasis on nature, beauty, and personal expression, Chypre would have resonated as a sophisticated choice for those looking to evoke both mystery and elegance. The nobility and the growing middle class, seeking to associate themselves with luxury and refinement, would have gravitated towards such a name.

Ebay Find! Mitsouko in Borne Flacon c1931-1960s

Ebay Find! Mitsouko in Borne Flacon c1931-1960s.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291034977534?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

photo from ebay seller bucarest17

Flacon Borne (Boundary Stone) c1931- 1960s

Made by Pochet et du Courval to house extraits of Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Sillage and others.

• 82cc/82ml/2.7 oz - 10,5cm/4.13" (1931), ground blue glass truncated stopper in the shape of a French policeman's cap 

World War II Version, all clear glass, without cobalt blue band.

1950s Guerlain Cosmetics and Skincare

1950s Guerlain Cosmetics and Skincare

from a 1953 advertisement

from a 1955 ad

from a 1956 ad

Trousseau de Week-End de Guerlain c1950

Trousseau de Week-End de Guerlain c1950. Holds skincare and cosmetics. Rare to find today.

Brillantine

Brillantine (brilliantine) was a grease used to groom the hair. It could be crystallized and sold in boxes like the one shown below or liquid form and housed in glass bottles.

"Brillantine" - (1920) rectangular box made up of molded colorless glass pressed for holding the solidifed hair oil, base decorated with draperies, brass lid embossed with baroque décor reminiscent of the eighteenth century. Titled. (Small chips) d: 5 x 8 cm. Photo by drouot.

Lotion de Guerlain c1850

Lotion de Guerlain, bleaching cream for the skin, created in 1850,  it consisted of Extract de Saturne (a solution of subacetate of lead), tincture of benzoin, distilled water of laurel, cherry and peach.

photo from museu del perfum

Lait de Perles

Lait de Perles (Pearl Milk) was a skin bleach containing water, holding in suspension about equal parts of zinc oxide, magnesic carbonate, and powdered talc, perfumed with otto of roses.

The bottle below is known as the "flat bottle with ringed neck" and held various products such as Teintre de Quina, Teintre de Pyrethre, Eau de Vie de Gaiac, Eau des Fumeurs, Teintre de Myrrhe, Veritable Tresor de la Bouche, Lait de Perles , Blanc Patti, Creme de Lys, Blanc Rachel, and Blanc de Perles.

photo from Museu del Perfum

Poudre Superdulci c1912

Created in 1912 by Guerlain, a face powder scented with Apres L'ondee perfume. Octagonal cardboard box wrapped with paper with polychromed Chinese decoration. I believe it was still available for sale around 1949.

photo by Le Floc'h

Veritable Graisse D'Ours

A touch of either Veritable Graisse d'Ours or Graisse d'Ours Liquéfie, a pommade made of bear's grease, would help keep that jaunty cowlick from popping out from a coiffure in addition to strengthening and prevent color fading of the hair.

Baume de la Ferté c1830

Baume de la Ferté was created around 1830 as an emollient balm to be used by nursing mothers and wet nurses to relieve their dried, cracked and sore nipples from breastfeeding. It contained tannins left over from Bordeaux wine production, benzoin, beeswax & almond oil. This moisturizing balm was also used to soothe chapped lips as well. The earliest pot lids are marked with the 15 ru de la Paix address (1840-1914), then in 1914, it was marked with the 68 Champs Elysees address.

The earliest pots were made up of stamped tin. The later pots were made up of galalith I believe. Newer formulas are housed in plastic tubes.

c2010

c2013

Eau Lustrale

Eau Lustrale, a liquid hair groom which would clean it, degrease it but also give it it a lustrous shine.

It was made up of Castor oil (deodorized), strongest alcohol (deodorized), cantharides powder, oil of bergamot and otto of roses. To soften the hair, and prevent baldness.

 It was made sometime before 1853 and continued to be sold into the 1960s.

Eau Lustrale was available in the following sizes and prices in 1941:

• 4 oz $1.00 
• 8 oz $3.25 
• Pt. $6.60 
• Qt. $12.75 

Harper's Bazaar, 1935:

"There are a couple of Guerlain things that will make your trip to the hairdresser's far more pleasant. The first, Eau Lustral, which is used after the shampoo, is delightful as a setting lotion. It is as light and thin as water, and dries quickly."

Eau Lustrale bottle c1845. Rectangular, 6 1/4", graduated top, no panels, O.P., olive green, side: "GUERLAIN" side: "EAU LUSTRALE", manufactured by Pochet et du Courval . Photo from Hair Raising Stories.

c1914, emerald green bottle, cork top, manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, photo from museu del perfum.

c1931 emerald green bottle, black bakelite cap, manufactured by Pochet et du Courval. Photo from delcampe.

c1930-1950. Green glass bottle, black bakelite screwcap. Photo from ebay seller chiquita_tuli

Backside of bottle, c1950. Photo from ebay seller chiquita_tuli

Mini bottle of Eau Lustrale. Photo by www.ventesuroffres.com

c1960s. Photo from delcampe

Ebay Find! Candide Effluve in Lyre Flacon

Ebay Find! Candide Effluve in Lyre Flacon

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VERY-RARE-CANDIDE-EFFLUVE-GUERLAIN-FLACON-BACCARAT-LYRE-SEALED-/181253487244?pt=fragrance&hash=item2a338cba8c

Candide Effluve: Created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921 but only launched the following year; in USA by 1924, it was intended to connote the innocent touch of a Virgin or young woman.

So what does it smell like? Notes include bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, lilac, muguet, styrax, hyacinth, lilac, orris, rose, amber, jasmine, iris, angelica, patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, tonka bean, heliotrope, thyme and vanilla.

The perfume was presented in a ‘Lyre’ bottle and the Flacon Brun Fume, made by Baccarat, starting in 1933.

Discontinued, date unknown, still being sold in 1946.

Weird Shalimar Bottle - Fake Seal - Alert!!

Ok, so on ebay this week I found this vintage bottle of Shalimar, so it is sealed ....but...it is not a genuine Guerlain seal, nor is the thread that is wrapped around it correct. Guerlain never used red wax seals imprinted with Asian language characters. Also Guerlain's Shalimar extrait bottles are always sealed with baudruchage that has a small gold metal seal with the "G" for Guerlain attached and a fluffy tassel which was brushed out by hand by the "dames du table".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Shalimar-by-Guerlain-1-2-oz-Made-in-France-with-threads-and-hang-tag-/321241591829?pt=fragrance&hash=item4acb7db015

I have no idea whether the contents in this bottle are even authentic Shalimar. I do not like the idea of the FAKE seal on the bottle either, this really pisses me off.

Emily X has posted that the red seal belongs to Revlon's Xia Xiang perfume bottles. Here is a photo of one of the Xia Xiang bottles with it's red seal intact:

Thanks Emily X!

Ebay Find! Liu in Quadrilobe Flacon

Ebay Find! Liu in Quadrilobe Flacon

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Guerlain-LUI-Eau-de-Parfum-BOTTLE-ONLY-/291007677922?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c168c5e2

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Ebay Find! Une Rose in Quadrilobe Flacon

Ebay Find! Une Rose in Quadrilobe Flacon

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-GUERLAINE-PARIS-UNE-ROSE-SEALED-BACCARAT-BOTTLE-WITH-BOX/121199612070?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D17905%26meid%3D2343746637206190253%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D8262%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D151149508888%26

Une Rose: created in 1908 by Jacques Guerlain.

So what does it smell like? It was a rose soliflore.

Presented in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Capsule flacon, and the Amphore facon (parfum).

Discontinued, date unknown, still being sold in the1950s-1960s.

Ebay Find! Guerlain Sachet with Dali In Venice Record

Ebay Find! Guerlain Sachet with Dali In Venice Record

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DALI-IN-VENICE-CONFALONIERI-w-GUERLAIN-SACHET-RARE-LONDON-OSA-1105-FFSS-/221306437675?pt=Music_on_Vinyl&hash=item3386e4402b

Read more about this item here:
http://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/guerlains-scented-flannel.html