Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Guerlain in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. All trademarks belong to their respective owners. The main objective of this website is to chronicle the 200+ year old history of the Guerlain fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years. Let this site be your source for information on antique and vintage Guerlain perfumes. Another goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Guerlain company how much we miss many of the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances! I invite you to leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or on what occasion, what it smelled like to you, how it made you feel, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Guerlain brand might see it. If you have any questions, please send all images of your bottle and pertinent information directly to me at cleopatrasboudoir@gmail.com. I will try to assist you the best I can.

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Sunday, February 10, 2013

Jicky c1889

Jicky by Guerlain: originally created in 1889. It is a classical fragrance and, despite the age, it is timeless and still very modern.

According to the legend, the perfume was named after a girl Aimé Guerlain was in love with when he was a student in England, and then it was said that the perfume was named after his uncle Jacques Guerlain’s nickname – Jicky.

It is more likely, though, that Aimé, a gay man, was hiding his love for someone else named Jacques and someone at Guerlain created the story of a long lost female love to hide his sexuality and to protect the reputation of Guerlain during the late 1800s, which is not unreasonable given the time period.

In 1911, Gabriel Guerlain said "the name Jicky (diminutive of Jack) was the familiar name of one of my many sons when he was a child. As we found it original we gave it to one of our scents."





With Love c2003

With Love by Guerlain: launched in 2003. Created by Sylvaine Delacourte and Christine Nagel.





Vol de Nuit Evasion c2007

Vol de Nuit Evasion: created by Mathilde Laurent.in 2007 in cooperation with Alea, the chain of airport duty free shops, and it can only be purchased at the Alea stores in France and Great Britain, as well as the Guerlain boutiques.


“Vol de Nuit EVASION, a nomadic homage to a classic scent from Guerlain.
A special creation reserved for travel retail, Vol de Nuit Evasion tells ‘the tale of a nocturnal evasion, a few hours of an internal adventure, an airy, olfactory bridge between fiction and reality’. A sweet scent of amber and woods that, like the logo on the midnight-blue packaging, diffuses a soft, warm light in the darkness. Find it at selected airport perfume counters and Guerlain boutiques. A fragrance with a sweet opening of rose and peach, evolving towards waves of jasmine and iris. The oriental trail is warmed with woods, amber and vanilla.”
 

Voila Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain c1900

Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain was first created in 1863 and then re-released in a special presentation for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. The name, which translates to "This is Why I Loved Rosine," carries a deeply emotional and personal resonance, chosen to honor Sarah Bernhardt, the celebrated actress whose birth name was Henriette-Rosine Bernard. As a close friend of the Guerlain family and a muse to Jacques Guerlain, Bernhardt was a woman of extraordinary talent, charm, and allure—qualities that the perfume’s name and composition sought to capture.

The phrase "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" evokes a sense of nostalgia, affection, and admiration. It tells the story of a great love or deep fondness, perhaps for a person, memory, or fleeting moment of beauty. The title invites the wearer to step into a narrative of romantic devotion, which could easily have mirrored Bernhardt’s dramatic life and the adoration she received from her audiences. The scent itself, then, becomes a tribute not only to her but to anyone who evokes a similar admiration, capturing the mystery and allure of the muse figure.

Interpreted in scent, "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" would likely translate to a fragrance that is at once delicate and bold, capturing the dual nature of Bernhardt’s persona—soft in her beauty but powerful in her presence. Floral elements, jasmine, rose and violet, evoke the femininity and elegance of the era, while deeper, warmer notes like cinnamon, leather and vanilla lend a more sensuous, timeless quality. The fragrance would feel like an homage to artistry and the stage, with a complex blend of ingredients designed to linger and captivate, much like Bernhardt herself.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a perfume like Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine would have resonated with both men and women in different ways. For women, the fragrance could symbolize an aspiration toward the sophistication and charisma embodied by Bernhardt, a celebrated woman who pushed the boundaries of her time. For men, the perfume might have represented a sense of admiration for a woman of grace and strength, while also carrying a sense of personal refinement and luxury. The perfume’s name and association with Bernhardt would have made it a conversation piece, evoking the cultural allure of the theater and the arts.

The time period in which this perfume was launched, the mid-19th century, was a transformative era in France. The country was at the height of its artistic and cultural influence, with figures like Sarah Bernhardt rising to international fame. The era was defined by opulence, innovation, and an appreciation for the arts, as seen in the 1900 Universal Exhibition, where Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine was presented in a newly designed bottle. Guerlain’s choice to re-release the perfume at such a significant global event reflected the brand’s deep connection to the artistic world and its role in shaping the cultural landscape of the time.

In an era where names like Bernhardt commanded admiration across Europe, the perfume would have served as a fragrant tribute to the ideals of creativity, beauty, and love. Its presentation at the 1900 Exhibition further elevated its status, making it not just a fragrance but a symbol of France’s cultural prominence and the spirit of the Belle Époque.


Arome Synthetique Peau D'Espagne by Guerlain c1883

Arome Synthetique Peau D'Espagne: created in 1883.



Une Rose by Guerlain c1908

Une Rose by Guerlain, launched in 1908 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a fragrance that exemplifies the elegance and simplicity of its name. The title "Une Rose" translates directly from French to "A Rose" in English, pronounced [ewn rohz]. This straightforward and evocative name immediately conjures the image of a single, exquisite bloom—a quintessential symbol of beauty, romance, and sophistication.

The choice of the name "Une Rose" reflects Guerlain’s intention to capture the essence of this beloved flower in its purest form. In the early 20th century, the rose was not only a staple in perfumery but also a symbol of refined luxury and timeless grace. By naming the fragrance simply "Une Rose," Guerlain conveyed a sense of singularity and focus, suggesting that the perfume was crafted to celebrate the rose in its most pristine and unadulterated state. The term evokes an image of a freshly picked rose, its petals velvety and dewy, and it brings to mind a sense of romanticism and delicate elegance.

At the time of its release, Une Rose was classified as a rose soliflore, meaning it centered on the rose as the primary note, showcasing it in all its facets. For women of the period, this would have represented an intimate and personal fragrance experience, highlighting the classic allure of the rose—a flower long associated with femininity and grace. The fragrance would have been perceived as a luxurious and refined choice, aligning with the era's penchant for sophisticated and elegant scents.

In the early 1900s, the sourcing of roses for perfumery was a meticulous process. The most coveted rose varieties, such as the Bulgarian Rosa damascena or the Turkish rose, were prized for their rich and complex scents. These roses were often harvested by hand during the early morning hours to ensure their delicate aroma was preserved. The careful extraction and distillation methods used to capture the essence of these roses reflected the high regard in which they were held in the world of fragrance.

Une Rose thus stands as a testament to both Guerlain’s craftsmanship and the timeless appeal of one of perfumery’s most cherished ingredients. Its launch during this period underscores the enduring significance of the rose in creating perfumes that resonate with both elegance and simplicity.



Saturday, February 9, 2013

Foin Coupe by Guerlain c1850

Foin Coupé by Guerlain, launched in 1850 and likely crafted in the 1830s, draws its evocative name from the French phrase meaning "cut hay." This name captures a vivid pastoral scene, conjuring the image of freshly harvested hay fields with their crisp, green, and slightly sweet aroma. The term "Foin Coupé" embodies the rustic charm and the sensory pleasure associated with the countryside at harvest time. By evoking the essence of new mown hay, the name suggests a fragrance that is both fresh and intimately connected to nature.

The olfactory interpretation of Foin Coupé would center around this imagery. The scent would likely open with vibrant, green notes reminiscent of freshly cut grass and hay, carrying a hint of the sweetness and dryness of sun-dried hay. This would appeal to both men and women of the time who were drawn to fragrances that mirrored the natural world and evoked a sense of pastoral tranquility.

During the 19th century, the popularity of Foin Coupé (Guerlain also released in English as "New Mown Hay") reflects a broader trend in perfumery of incorporating natural elements into scent compositions. Fragrances of this period often sought to capture the essence of nature, blending floral and green notes with a touch of the animalic to create depth. The use of natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures was common, but as the century progressed, the inclusion of synthetics like coumarin in the 1896 reformulation allowed for a more consistent and long-lasting representation of these natural scents.

In the context of other fragrances available at the time, New Mown Hay stands out for its distinct approach. While many perfumes were focusing on rich, floral, and exotic notes, Guerlain's choice to craft a scent around the more humble and earthy aroma of cut hay offered a refreshing contrast. This innovative approach highlighted a growing appreciation for authenticity in scent and a deepened connection to the natural world, marking Foin Coupé as both a product of its time and a unique departure from prevailing trends.

Plus Que Jamais c2005

Plus Que Jamais: (More Than Ever): created in 2005. Looking to create the perfect fragrance for the re-opening of the Guerlain boutique on the Champs Elysees, Jean-Paul Guerlain composed Plus Que Jamais, an exclusive fragrance that celebrates the creative spirit of the House.


Precious Heart c2004

Precious Heart by Guerlain: launched in 2004, as a limited edition. Created by Frank Voelkl. Guerlain's second travel retail scent, following 2003's With Love.

Shore's Caprice by Guerlain c1873

Shore's-Caprice, launched in 1873, was a fragrance crafted by Aimé Guerlain, intended as an extrait specifically for use on handkerchiefs and furs. At a time when furs were a staple in high society, the perfume served a practical purpose—masking the natural odor of the pelts with a luxurious scent. The fragrance, inspired by the sea, captured the essence of freshness and sophistication, making it an ideal complement to the elegance of its wearers.

Originally created for Comtesse Emanuella Pignatelli Potocka, Shore's-Caprice soon became a favorite of Julia Forsell, further solidifying its reputation among the elite. The fragrance’s unique composition and connection to aristocracy helped establish its place in high society. However, despite its prominence, the perfume's name was often mistakenly recorded as "Shaw's Caprice" or "Show Caprice" in various publications, a testament to both its widespread influence and the occasional confusion surrounding it.

Ylang Ylang by Guerlain c1839

Launched in 1839, Ylang Ylang by Guerlain was named after the exotic and fragrant tropical flower, ylang ylang, whose name comes from the Tagalog language of the Philippines, meaning "flower of flowers." By choosing this name, Guerlain aimed to evoke the lush, tropical allure of this flower, which was synonymous with romance, mystery, and natural beauty. The repetition of the word in its name, "ylang ylang," suggests abundance and a floral richness that is hard to match, conjuring up images of vibrant, sun-drenched islands and a sensory experience unlike anything found in Europe at the time.

The word "ylang ylang" itself carries a poetic and exotic connotation. It stirs the imagination, bringing forth visions of delicate golden-yellow petals falling gracefully from trees in faraway tropical landscapes. In scent, "ylang ylang" is interpreted as a rich, sweet floral with hints of creaminess and spice, a fragrance that feels both intoxicating and calming. Its scent is sensual yet soft, with a slightly narcotic effect, making it a perfect representation of the escapism and indulgence that women of the time would have sought. The tropical note of ylang ylang would have transported its wearers to distant lands, creating a sense of exoticism and refinement.

In the 19th century, when Ylang Ylang was launched, Europe was captivated by the mysteries of the East and the allure of the tropics. The colonial expansion had made new and rare materials like ylang ylang accessible, and perfumes using exotic ingredients became a symbol of luxury and adventure. Women of the time would have been drawn to a perfume called "Ylang Ylang" for its promise of something new and thrilling—a fragrance that spoke to their desire for beauty and sophistication, while also indulging in a fantasy of distant, uncharted worlds.



Liu by Guerlain c1929

Liu by Guerlain, launched in 1929 and created by Jacques Guerlain, draws its inspiration from the haunting beauty and tragic romance of Puccini's opera Turandot. In the opera, Liu is the name of a slave girl who plays a pivotal role in the dramatic love story. The plot of Turandot revolves around the cold and cruel Princess Turandot, who has vowed to remain unmarried unless a suitor can solve three riddles. Failure results in execution. Prince Calaf, entranced by her beauty, takes on the challenge. Liu, a slave girl deeply in love with Calaf, represents the tender heart of the opera. Her selfless devotion leads her to sacrifice her life for his, embodying unwavering loyalty and deep, tragic love.

The name Liu is taken from the opera's original Italian libretto, though the character and name have Chinese roots. Pronounced "LU," the name evokes simplicity, grace, and quiet strength. Liu, in the context of the opera, symbolizes purity, selflessness, and unrequited love, images that resonate through the ages. For a perfume, the name "Liu" conjures emotions of delicate elegance, soft femininity, and quiet power—traits that would have appealed to the women of the time, seeking a reflection of their own grace and inner strength.

Women of the late 1920s, emerging from the flapper era and the tumult of World War I, were embracing more freedom and confidence in their personal lives. A fragrance like Liu, named after a character who was at once loyal and tragically romantic, would evoke an air of mystery and tenderness. It allowed women to connect to something poetic and timeless, while also embracing a new era of modernity, where the art of scent was evolving rapidly. The name would have evoked imagery of far-off, exotic lands and timeless emotions, appealing to the sophisticated, worldly woman of the late 1920s.

In scent, Liu captures the essence of its namesake through its classification as an aldehydic floral. Aldehydes were seen as daring, fresh, and modern notes in perfumery at the time. Liu was Guerlain’s first fragrance to use aldehydes in such a bold measure, competing with other iconic aldehydic florals of the period, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921), Arpège by Lanvin (1927), L’Aimant by Coty (1927), and Evening in Paris by Bourjois (1929). These perfumes revolutionized the way women perceived scent—shifting from simple, single-note florals to more complex, sophisticated compositions. The aldehydes in Liu add a sparkling, almost abstract quality to the fragrance, opening it with a burst of brightness that feels crisp and effervescent, yet intangible, like a gleam of light or the soft shimmer of silk.

The 1920s were a time of innovation and excitement in many fields, including perfumery. Aldehydes, once considered experimental, became a symbol of modernity, giving fragrances a crystalline sharpness and a radiant lift that natural ingredients alone couldn't achieve. This innovation allowed perfumes to last longer on the skin, giving them an almost ethereal presence. For Liu, the aldehydes act as a vehicle to transport the wearer into an imagined world of elegance, art, and high romance, much like the opera that inspired it.


Collection: Les Voyages Olfactifs

In May 2009, Guerlain presented the Les Voyages Olfactifs fragrance collection inspired by the cities of Paris, New York and Tokyo. Two other scents were launched: London in 2011, and Shanghai in 2012.


Le Bolshoi c2011

Le Bolshoi: created in 2011 by Jean-Paul Guerlain.

La Cologne Du Parfumeur c2010

La Cologne Du Parfumeur: a citrus aromatic fragrance for women and men, introduced in 2010. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser.

"Originally, I created this Cologne for myself. I composed it at the same time as Idylle, it was my downtime. I wanted a Cologne in the tradition of the great classics but with a modern twist."


L'Âme d'Un Héros c2008

L'Âme d'Un Héros: created in 2008, clearly inspired by the firm's previous release, Coriolan. Jean-Paul Guerlain's 1998 creation Coriolan, born of the legendary conquests of the great Roman warrior Coriolanus, gets a new deployment as L'ame d'un Heros. L'ame d'un Heros is the scent of valor.

Parure c1975

Parure by Guerlain: launched in 1975. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain with his mother in mind. It is a luxurious fragrance that evoked the richness and brilliance of the most precious jewels. Parure means a matching set - earrings and necklace.


Secret Intention c2001

Secret Intention: a floral fragrance for women, launched in 2001, as a limited edition by Jean Paul Guerlain.



Spiritueuse Double Vanille c2007

Spiritueuse Double Vanille: launched in 2007 as a limited edition. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Syringa and Syringa du Japon by Guerlain c1870

Syringa du Japon: created in 1870 by Aime Guerlain.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete c2012

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.


Encens Mythique d'Orient c2012

Encens Mythique d'Orient by Guerlain: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.

Rose Nacree du Desert c2012

Rose Nacree du Desert: was launched in 2012. The nose behind this fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Created as part of the Les Deserts d'Orient collection, available only to the Middle Eastern market.

Purple Fantasy c2001

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain: launched in 2001. Created by Jean Paul Guerlain.

Prince Albert's Bouquet by Guerlain c1840

Launched in 1840 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, Prince Albert's Bouquet was crafted to celebrate a momentous occasion: the marriage of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. This fragrance, also known as Bouquet de Albert, stands as a testament to the tradition of commemorating royal events through exquisite perfumery. The name “Prince Albert's Bouquet” evokes a sense of honor and celebration, reflecting the admiration and respect for the royal couple.

The term "Prince Albert's Bouquet" conjures images of regality and elegance, symbolizing the refined taste of Victorian nobility. It suggests a luxurious blend of florals, fitting for a prince whose union with Queen Victoria was celebrated with grandeur. The fragrance itself would have likely been designed to embody the sophistication and splendor associated with the royal court, offering a scent that was both opulent and memorable.

For men and women of the period, a fragrance like Prince Albert's Bouquet would have been a cherished token of royal celebrations. During the 19th century, perfumes commemorating significant events were highly sought after, and acquiring such a fragrance was a way to align oneself with the prestige of the monarchy. The popularity of “court” perfumes, such as Victoria Bouquet, Adelaide Bouquet, and Prince of Wales's Bouquet, underscores the era’s fascination with fragrances that celebrated nobility and significant occasions.

In this context, Guerlain’s choice to create Prince Albert's Bouquet not only capitalized on the fervor surrounding royal weddings but also positioned his brand prominently in the competitive perfume market. The fragrance would have been crafted to appeal to the tastes of the time, combining floral elements with subtle touches of animalics, reflecting both the natural and sophisticated sensibilities of the era. As the 19th century progressed, the formula for such fragrances evolved, incorporating newly discovered synthetic ingredients to enhance their complexity and longevity.




Pao Rosa c1877

Pao Rosa by Guerlain: created by Aimé Guerlain in 1877. Pao Rosa grows in the dense forests of Africa. Its narrow sapwood is a pinkish white color and its heartwood is a reddish brown color with red brown veins.


180 Ans de Creations c2008

180 Ans de Creations 1828-2008: launched in 2008. 

Guerlain's 180th anniversary was celebrated with a brand new limited edition perfume, composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain. A non-commercial perfume gift offered only to loyal customers and industry people.

"To celebrate an exceptional event, Maison Guerlain's 180-year anniversary, Jean-Paul Guerlain has composed a very contemporary fragrance which has been created in traditional Guerlain style. With sensual amber notes that stir the senses, and a bottle which has been hand-sealed by the "dames de table", this limited edition scent, which will NOT be available for sale, has all the rarity and uniqueness of a collector's item."

Friday, February 8, 2013

Esterhazy Mixture by Guerlain c1828

Esterhazy Mixture: created by Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain in 1828. Renamed Eau d'Esterhazy in 1850. Bouquet d'Esterhazy was an old renowned perfume, a former rival of Cologne water, the name is derived from a noble Hungarian family. It later lended its name after a popular snuff blend of the period.



Eau Hegemonienne c1880

L'Eau Hegemonienne: Created in 1880 by Aime Guerlain, it was a personal favorite of Isabella II of Spain, the mother of Alfonso XII, King of Spain, for whom it was created, additionally, the succeeding generations of the Spanish royal family.  It appears to have been available to the general public by 1890 and was created to be a tribute to the hegemonic international alliances between the world's greatest powers.

Esprit de Réséda c1828

Esprit de Réséda: created by Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain in 1828, 





Le Fleurs de Guildo by Guerlain c1885

Le Fleurs de Guildo, launched by Guerlain in 1885, carries a name evocative of its regional inspiration and cultural significance. "Le Fleurs de Guildo" translates to "The Flowers of Guildo," referencing the picturesque village of Guildo in Brittany, France. The choice of this name suggests a romanticized vision of the French countryside, where the lush flora and serene landscapes inspire a sense of elegance and tranquility.

The name conjures images of vibrant, blooming flowers set against a backdrop of Brittany’s rugged coastlines and quaint village charm. It evokes a romantic, almost pastoral aesthetic, reflecting the delicate and fresh nature of the fragrance. To interpret "Le Fleurs de Guildo" in terms of scent, one might imagine a bouquet of floral notes, reminiscent of the natural flora found in the region, with a subtle hint of the coastal breeze. This evokes an atmosphere of refinement and natural beauty, with a fragrance that captures the essence of a charming, rural escape.

Women of the late 19th century, particularly young women targeted by the marketing of the extrait according to Alice de Laincel's L'art de la toilette chez la femme: bréviaire de la vie élégante, would have been drawn to the fragrance’s association with freshness and natural beauty. The perfume’s name and scent would align with the era's aesthetic values, which celebrated refinement, elegance, and a connection to nature. The late 1800s was a period marked by a growing interest in natural and botanical themes in fashion and fragrance, reflecting a broader societal appreciation for the elegance of the natural world and its influence on personal style.

In this context, "Le Fleurs de Guildo" not only embodied the spirit of its namesake but also catered to the period's taste for sophisticated, nature-inspired fragrances, resonating with women seeking to express their elegance and embrace the beauty of the natural world.

Guerlain's Scented Flannel

The New Yorker, Volume 11, Part 2, 1935:

"At Guerlain's, they have a new way of perfuming your clothes, a scented flannel which you can buy by the roll and cut off in .."

A Parisian's guide to Paris, 1969:

"Thus the only places in Paris where you can buy the famous Guerlain products (perfume, toilet water, marvelous soap, talc, face cream, and even scented flannels which let you perfume your car windows as you wipe them off) are their own .."

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Guerlain Parfums a Bruler

Parfums a Bruler, or burning perfumes, were another scented product that Guerlain was famous for in the nineteenth to early twentieth century.

Guerlain's brule a parfum, from an 1862 French publication.


Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Guerlain Silver Fountain Labels

The Silver Fountain labels represent the fountains at the 1925 Art Deco Expo in Paris, they were used in 1928 to mark the 100th anniversary of the founding of Guerlain. The perfumes were boxed in a blue and silver box and the perfumes were presented in a clear glass bottle called the "petit beurre" or little butter pat..




Aqua Allegoria Jasminora c2011

Aqua Allegoria Jasminora: created in 2011 by Thierry Wasser.




Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca c1999

Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca: created in 1999 by Jean-Paul Guerlain

Herba Fresca is like a barefoot summer's walk in the early morning, in a dew-damped garden where the first fragrances of grass rise from the soil, blending with the scent of mint, fruit trees and wild flowers.




Aqua Allegoria Grosellina c2005

Aqua Allegoria Grosellina: created in 2005 by Sylvaine Delacourte.


Aqua Allegoria Gentiana c2001

Aqua Allegoria Gentiana: created in 2001.




Aqua Allegoria Foliflora c2003

Aqua Allegoria Foliflora: created in 2003 by Jean-Paul Guerlain.



Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea c2010

Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea: launched in 2010. Created by Thierry Wasser.